Stick Welding- what’s your favourite rod?

[StevSmar]

I did some experiments today with E6011, E6013 and E7018AC with my AC welder that has taps for 40, 50, 75 & 100A taps.

At 75A, AC- 3/32 E6011 has a lot of spatter, but seems to penetrate quite nicely.
At 75A, AC- 3/32 E6013 welds quite nicely.
At 100A, AC- 3/32 E6013 was welding fantastic.
At 100A, AC- 3/32 E7018 did beautiful welds, but I couldn’t keep the arc going and the longest bead was maybe 1.5”.

So today, with my AC welder, my favourite rod is E6013.

Here’s my experiments:




And now I’ve selected my “favourite” rod, I’m just running beads to practise:

 

[phaxtris]

were you trying 7018AC? it has arc stabilizer's that normal 7018 does not have, this allows you to burn 7018 on ac, 6013 already has the stabilizers as it is designed for AC or DC

you will also notice there is a distinct difference in the brands of rods, you should give a couple brands a go, you will probably find a brand of 6013 you like the best

 

[YotaBota]

7014 - when you get your amps and speed right the slag will peel up on its own and the weld is a thing of beauty. I use DC for the 7014, I can't remember how it runs on AC. 6013 is probably your best all around buzzbox rod.
6011 is a DC rod that uses a "whip" technique and 6013 is its AC equivalent(ish). If you look up 6011 there are videos on the whip technique.
Edit - strike out by OP

 

[phaxtris]

6011 is a DC rod that uses a "whip" technique and 6013 is its AC equivalent(ish).

6011 is the ac equivalent to 6010, light "airy" slag, fast freeze, deep penetration, high skill, back to back on a dc machine they are almost indistinguishable

6013 is closer to a 7014/7018, heavy thick slag, slow freeze, shallow penetration, lower skill....of those 3 7018 is the nicest to run, but that may be because more development dollars go toward 7018

6013/7014 is for sure the best buzz box rod, there is a reason most guys call it farmer rod....you will usually find a box of either sitting on top of the lincoln tombstone at the back of many barns

 

[YotaBota]

6011 is a DC rod that uses a "whip" technique and 6013 is its AC equivalent(ish)

@phaxtris - thank you sir, I stand corrected. It didn't think it sounded right when I was typing but I couldn't figure why.

 

[Downwindtracker2]

1/8" 7018 is the millwrights' rod. Most times if we were welding up something, it's because it broke. 7018 has good elongation. The only brand used was LA. Except for one mill, they used Arctec 223,(?) because it had better elongation numbers. It wasn't as nice to burn as 7018. If I was repairing flimsy guards, 3/32" 6013. We called it tinbasher rod. At home I use 3/32" 7014 a lot.

 

[DPittman]

you will also notice there is a distinct difference in the brands of rods, you should give a couple brands a go, you will probably find a brand of 6013 you like the best

Any brand suggestions? I like to take credit for good welding skills when I get a weld that's close to passable and when it is not so good, it's because "those dam princess auto rods".
I think Hobart and Princess Auto rods are the only rods I've had for years. I'm hoping you won't say that they are both worthless.
I'd be a bit surprised if you have anything good to say about the princess auto rods but I really hope they are not considered total garbage as I buy them Uber cheap when on sale.

 

[phaxtris]

I cant give you a "this is the best 6013" because I don't know, 6013 isn't used in industry. So my experience with it is limited. But, if I were to put my money on who probably had the best 6013, ESAB would be my bet, I say that because its well accepted that currently ESAB makes the best 7018 rod, chances are there 6013 is top shelf as well.

You wouldn't think brand made any difference, but they all have slightly different mixtures for the flux, and it makes a difference in the way the rod behaves, weather that be the out of position performance, the behavior of the slag, characteristics of the arc, smoothness of the final bead, or the durability of the flux...you don't have to be a "pro" to see the differences either

I wouldn't go as far as to say any rod is worthless, they all stick things together (and themselves to things), some just weld nicer than others, some of it is personal preference, you really just have to try a few brands to see which you like and runs the best for you on your machine. I might prefer brand x, and you might prefer brand y.

I pick up the odd 2.5lb P-auto box of rods when its something out of the ordinary (i just bought a box of 3/32 6011...it'll probably take me 10 years to burn it up), the stuff they sell isn't great, but it works, and you can get it at 8pm on a Thursday night

If you're asking about 7018, in 2023 I would say ESAB, but they are expensive, the next best to that for 7018 is Solid Strike (used to be Linde, now Messer) or Bohler, considerably cheaper, downside is the flux is less durable.

For 6010 Lincoln 5p+ hands down, for 6011 Lincoln fleet weld 180

 

[justin1]

Brands do make a bit of difference but I think at a hobby level you probly won't notice a hole lot of difference if your not burning rods day in day out. Anything I've seen recommended here will burn just fine for you as long as it's AC rated but I would recommend if you want to do more then just the occasional weld the tractor back together in the paddock you may find that stick welding may not suite your needs in a the long run depending on what you want to build in the long run. Mind you I've seen lots of foreign build videos were they stick thin wall handrail together but it's kinda like tuning a piano with a sledge hammer not that it cants be done but there is more friendly options that allow you to be more productive and enjoy the build and not spend as much time on the grinder

It is good to have a stick welder handy for those projects you can't get to the garage so it is good to have and know how to use it. But if you want to build stuff on regular basis I would recommend buying a wire feed machine with gas and a 220v one not 110v versions unless you just want to do auto body lol or want preheat anything over 1/4. You can pick up some older canox or acklands wire feeders for not bad price and usually come with some bottles. Some of the Chinese machines you can buy new are good bargain aswell but there hit and miss. they are the cheapest option if you want all the bells and whistles for less then 2k.

all my home machines are Everlast I have had good luck with the brand so far but had to upgrade the factory provided Tig torch and whips. I wouldn't recommend to use as 12 hour work horse but they work great as a home machine as long as you size the machine correctly to what you want to do. I have the everlast 275p and have no issue welding 1-1/4 plate together with .045

Your 6013 flat welds are looking good and i would recommend wiggling side to side tiny bit it can help even out your bead width but biggest thing when you first learning is to adjust you helmet till you can see the puddle and arc the best so you can manage arc gap aswell as see when puddle stabilizes and becomes oval and glassy then just trying to keep it that way hole time. set up some test plates and fill them up, you will find you'll have to change your technique a bit for each set up to get the desired results then you'll have to start all over when you change positions flat to vertical is usually a game changer but 6013 does vertical fine more forgiving then 7018 anyways.

You can also usually find open boxes of rod for cheap on FB or Kijiji depending were you located. As long as it hasn't been soaked in water it should be fine even old 7018 works fine after years of being open just wouldn't weld pressure vessels with it but for putting trailers together it's fine. Trailer won't be around long enough to succumb to hydrogen cracking anyways lol.

 

[Aliva]

My go to rod has always been 7018 for all positions. for penetration 6011 mostly used on pipe for the root pass with a 7018 cap. 309 for SS to mild steel. I only weld with DC E pos. 7018 can be used on AC but very difficult if I have to weld overhead. For SS 316L. I have 7024 but only good for flat, but fast . Rod dia. will depend on the thickness of the material. For thin SS I use 3016L x 1/16 but you got to be fast. or you'll burn thru. As far as amps 316L x 1/16 60 amps,
7018 x 1/8 118 to 120 amps. 7018 x3/32 90 to 100 amps. 6011 x 3/32 90 amps. All the rods i have are from Liquide Aire.
This is just the rods I use mostly, there are many more out there for special materials. For the home shop 7018 6011 and 316L

 

[Dan Dubeau]

1/8" 7018 is my favourite. Not sure why, but it's what I've run the most of, and am the most proficient with. Nice and easy, goes down really smooth, and almost always gives me a smile when I flip the lid up. 6011 next.

I need to pick up a box of 7014 to give it a try. Sounds like I'd like it too.

I've only run box store brands. Hobart, and Lincoln.

 

[phaxtris]

Brands do make a bit of difference but I think at a hobby level you probly won't notice a hole lot of difference if your not burning rods day in day out.

I've gotta disagree with you on this point, go buy a box of p-auto 7018, burn that, and then try some ESAB, even someone who has only burnt up one or two boxes will be able to see a difference

I don't think you're giving hobbiest enough credit, there are some very good hobby welders out there, plenty of guys that have the knack, just don't do it for a living

 

[Chicken lights]

I don't think you're giving hobbiest enough credit, there are some very good hobby welders out there, plenty of guys that have the knack, just don't do it for a living

Agreed. Personally I don’t think welding is that tricky, at least for just gluing two pieces of metal together and leaving a decent bead behind. Now overhead or vertical stitching with a stick I’d struggle, even stainless I found a little different

Even @Susquatch ”should” be able to lay a decent weld with some help

 

[Susquatch]

I don't think you're giving hobbiest enough credit, there are some very good hobby welders out there,

Hmmmmmm.......

And here I was thinking the opposite extreme. I think @JustaDB was giving "some of us" WAY TOO MUCH credit! LOL!

Maybe later this summer, I'll try to post a video of me trying to stick weld. I have the perfect job waiting for me. I broke a tail guide off of my land levellor by turning too fast. Basically a 4 ft long piece of 3x3 angle iron. I know I can get it to stick, but it might take a box of rods and a stack of grinding wheels to do 12" of weld. The dirt under the levellor will also be highly iron rich. The biggest problem will be finding someone who can hold the camera steady while they laugh themselves silly.

Edit after seeing @Chicken lights post. He is too kind.......

Edit 2 - maybe I can get chicken lights to hold the camera......

 

[Dan Dubeau]

I struggle with overhead, but am getting better with vertical. When I built the sawmill frame I tried to force myself to get better at welding in all positions. Not happy with my progress, I soon dragged the engine hoist out, and rotated the frame so I could do all the welds in horizontal lol. I really need to practice more. I would love to take an actual course, and have some hands on instruction.

 

[Susquatch]

I would love to take an actual course, and have some hands on instruction.

Me too. But I would never make the entry requirements.

 

[Dan Dubeau]

Too Hairy? I'm pretty sure they'd let you in.

 

[JustaDB]

I have 7024 but only good for flat, but fast .

Decades ago I was w/ Dad at a welding shop getting some work done. I was watching one of the welders do a flat weld w/ 7024. The flux was lifting from the weld & curling up into small pieces, 1-2" in length as the weld cooled. Never even had a chipping hammer, just wiping the flux away w/ his gloved hand. I'd never seen anything like that before. Still a vivid memory.

 

[Susquatch]

Too Hairy? I'm pretty sure they'd let you in.

I think the biggest entry barrier would be stabbing the instructor with the stick.

But seriously this whole discussion is making me reflect on a few realities.

One of my favorite sayings is: "God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference."

I struggle more with the last one than the other two. This might be one of those times. I am old. I am basically blind in my left eye, need readers for my right eye, have virtually no depth perception left, and I shake like an big willow tree in a hurricane.

Perhaps I should just accept the fact that I can't weld, sell all my welding equipment, and buy something else I can actually use properly - maybe a power X-Axis for my mill.

Lord knows I do enough for my farming neighbours that one of them can do a little welding for me once in a while.

I think maybe I'd be a lot happier not trying to fight reality.

 

[JustaDB]

Too Hairy? I'm pretty sure they'd let you in.

I think they'd be afraid he'd soil those lily white paws...