• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Solid Toolpost Turret

Susquatch said:
That's a pretty wide cut to do all at once... What are you gunna do when it's a bull barrel and a 17 caliber hole?

I know, nobody is ever gunna want that, it's only worst case. But there will be a few who want a 224 hole in a bull barrel.
Click to expand...
Well, that was almost an 1" in diameter, and I think 30 caliber. And there was enough cutter surface to go wider, so I don't think it'll be an issue.
 
thestelster said:
Well, that was almost an 1" in diameter, and I think 30 caliber. And there was enough cutter surface to go wider, so I don't think it'll be an issue.
Click to expand...

That's a lot wider than it looks. But ok. If it works it works!

Btw, apparently @DPittman wants one in 17 cal.......

I wanna watch to see how far he can carry it..... ;)
 
A solid mount for the post has been on my mental to do list for the shop for a while. Seeing your results, as well as James Clough's results (slightly different route, but similar concept) has bumped this a few rungs up the priority list. Just need time. Around our crazy little household life. Should be easy? (Yeah right!) My 12x36 is not nearly as rigid as it looks, and I'd appreciate any extra rigidity in it!
 
Susquatch said:
This is on my to do list too. My lathe is not so little and is probably just fine as is, but more is better when the operator isn't the best tool in the cabinet.

I mostly need help with parting. It's not that I can't part, it's just that it's almost never a painless activity, and I know I can do better so why not try. A dedicated parting plinth just seems so obvious so why not! @thestelster is my inspiration this time around, but @Dabbler has inspired me in the past. This project keeps moving up my priority list.

I'm thinking a plinth to replace the entire tool post with a dedicated 1" blade holder built right into it. At this time, the only real challenge is setting spindle center. Adjustments reduce rigidity, so I'd like to get around that somehow without losing the flexibility of being able to use various blades.
Click to expand...
If you have done all the right things and still broken a blade you need this. Parting is the rigidity test for any lathe. Especially when parting something recalcitrant like stainless or aluminum
 
Ironman said:
If you have done all the right things and still broken a blade you need this. Parting is the rigidity test for any lathe. Especially when parting something recalcitrant like stainless or aluminum
Click to expand...

Since the post that prompted your reply, I inherited a parting tool that takes GTN-3 inserts.

It is amazing. I have not had a parting problem since buying it.

I should add that I have broken blades before and had challenges from time to time. But parting upside down in reverse has always saved my butt.

All the above said, a plinth is definitely in my future.
 
Well, it's been a little over a year since going to a solid toolpost/plinth like so many of the YouTube machinist gurus/charlatans.

I decided to switch back.
 

Attachments

  • 20240113_132019.jpg
    20240113_132019.jpg
    702.2 KB · Views: 9
  • 20240113_141015.jpg
    20240113_141015.jpg
    681.9 KB · Views: 9
Yes, looking forward to discussion. I've come to the conclusion there will be times when I definitely want compound on, so the knockdown/install must be quick. Also I'm having dangerous thoughts again on a mounted mini-ish grinder spindle & I want it to move at angles, not just in primary 2 axis
 
I'm building one now, ha, ha. It is easy to switch over for me. I built a compound plinth before and it was a problem because I machined a T slot in it instead of putting in a bolt. This one will be like the stelster's. I found I put the compound back on once a year, but now I will try straight on threading instead of 29 degrees.
 
Post some pics @Ironman. I'm at the drawing board stage myself (again).

My original version was integrating solid block to my circular T-slot cross slide using 4 bolts. That allows me to mount my existing tool post & probably further stabilize with a corner angle thingy (not shown). Some guys dowel the tool post itself. But I'm thinking of something like 2 cam locks on either side of corner, like a Mitee Bite principle. I might be wrong but I think 75% of the rigidity win comes from just removing the compound from the stack up assembly - eliminating yet another layer of sliding surfaces & fits. Now that I'm mulling over a TPG spindle, I'm thinking maybe best to remove the tool post & mount directly on the block. I have time to think this through, I don't have any suitable material lumps anyways.

1705177017962.webp
1705177078940.webp
 
Ironman said:
I will try straight on threading instead of 29 degrees.
Click to expand...

Been using 29.5 all my life.

I have been trying straight on lately. I am having difficulty getting used to a proportional plunge and I am not enjoying doing it. Too much effort keeping track of the depth for each pass I much prefer the steady increments of a 29 degree progression and have found my thread quality was better at 29 too. I think the smaller increments at the end of a plunge thread don't make as nice a thread. But this might be a function of the inserts I have on hand.

The jury is still out.
 
The reasons for switching back to using a compound:

1. Sometimes I need to face off some material at a shallow taper. I.e. 11° crown for a rifle muzzle.

I have managed to do it with the solid plinth, but i had to put the tool bit at 11°, but then it becomes a form tool as opposed to single point cutting tool.
See post #39 of this thread.

2. When using the taper turing attachment, I need to advance the cutter by moving inwards with the compound. (I was planning on making a telescoping crossfeed screw system, but that hasn't happened, and might not for a while.)

I managed to do it with the plinth, but I had to loosen the bolts of the tool holer holding the cutter, and physically pushing it foreard a measured amount then retightening the bolts. Not very accurate, and time consuming.
See #https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/taper-turning-without-a-compound.6121/

3. When using the follow rest, positioning the cutter relative to the fingers of the steady is very easy with the compound. Not so easy with the solid plinth.

canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

Follow Rest for Standard Modern

Very nice knurls. Accu-Trak is good stuff. Spendy at current FX but what isn't these days. What I like about that design is good mechanical advantage for applying required pressure & the tension rod comes back to operator. I posted this elsewhere but here is an online calculator for initial...
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

4. If I want to thread going in at an angle, I can, ( instead of straight in like I have to with the solid plinth.)
 
I'm not saying that this mod is useless. The main purpose for the solid toolpost, I believe, is to increase rigidity to do certain operations on the smaller lathes. My lathe is a Standard Modern 16x54 and weighs 2,400lbs, so it didn't see as great a performance improvement as the mod would for a smaller lathe, but I'm sure it helped when taking big cuts or parting.

Some of the things I did like:
-by removing the compound it freed up some space made for a cleaner look.

-I use the carriage for drilling instead of the tail stock, that in itself is a huge plus. Without a compound, I didn't have to worry about using it, otherwise the DRO wouldn't put me back on center for drilling. I'm going to have to address this issue.

So, I've used the solid toolpost plinth for over a year now successfully, albeit with some hiccups as mentioned above, and I'm glad I tried it. I can still re-install it whenever I think there's a need.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top