SM1120 Finally found one!

[DPittman]

It's all aluminium that has been cast, the sides and top are .500ish thick and the webs are about .375ish thick.

Oh it sure looks like slightly rusted bare metal steel angle frame in the picture. It's hard to tell sometime from pictures.

 

[Johnwa]

@YotaBota It looks like your outboard spindle bearing isn’t quite in place. Mine definitely was working it’s way out. I don’t recall but it might the 1340 drawings that show a retainer.
I added one to mine.

 

[YotaBota]

Morning all,

The SM 1340 has the motor in the base of the headstock plinth

I've seen a 1334 and a 1340 without the cabinet, the motors are mounted the same as mine and the control panel is also the same. Until recently I thought all the 13xx lathes came with cabinets but it looks like the cabinet was an option.

it sure looks like slightly rusted bare metal steel angle frame in the picture

Aha, now I see where you're looking. The top 5" of the stand is the cast aluminium painted black, the bottom half is rusty 1/4 x 3.5 steel angle.

It looks like your outboard spindle bearing isn’t quite in place.

Thanks Johnwa - I'll give it a little tap and see if it seats any farther in. From the drawings I have it doesn't look like the bearing seats flush with the headstock casting but I'll give it a tap and see what happens. Was yours working its way out?

 

[Johnwa]

Mine was definitely working it’s way out. It doesn’t fit flush against the casting. Without measuring it might be about 1/16” proud of the casting.

 

[YotaBota]

Johnwa - after a light tap with the brass punch the bearing seems seated but I'm going to take the headstock cover off and have a look inside. I should be able to see if the bearing is tight to the casting.

 

[YotaBota]

Johnwa - thank you sir! When I took the lid off I could see a good 3/32 gap between the bearing and the case. A bit more manly tapping and the bearing is now seated fully. I'll keep an eye on it from now on.
RobinHood - how are yours?, 1120 and the 1340.

 

[Brent H]

@YotaBota - you still need this expensive little dude:

 

[Johnwa]

No problem. It took a bit of looking before I found the manual that shows the retainer. It’s on page 28
http://www.standardmodernlathes.com/docs/manuals/standard-modern-1334-mil-manual.pdf

The other manual I have doesn’t show it.

 

[YotaBota]

@YotaBota - you still need this expensive little dude:

I still haven't had a chance to look yet but for now I think I'm going to pass, a nice brass knurly knob is sounding good. Thanks very much for the offer, at least now you know where it is.

Johnwa - the MIL spec manual seems to be the only manual I have that shows the retainer as well, if it creeps again I'll make the retainer for it. Did you built the preload adjuster tool on page 25? My spindle seems a bit stiff (not unreasonable) but that may be just from sitting for a few years. I'll get a few hours of run time before I start messing with things.

 

[RobinHood]

RobinHood - how are yours?, 1120 and the 1340.

Both the 1120 and the 1340 have no bearing retainer. I do check them though as they we off their seats when I first got the lathes. I put little sharpie marks as witness lines to see if they move; they have not since the first re-seating.

I think a retainer plate is a good idea in any case.

 

[YotaBota]

Wonder why the retainer is only shown on the mil spec model,, must be just for the military equipment bashers (says the retired military guy) lol

 

[Johnwa]

I didn’t attempt to change the bearing preload. It felt smooth when rolled by hand and there is no apparent spindle deflection.
In the 1120/1340 manual there is a drawing showing the gear train. That drawing appears to show the retainer, but there is nothing shown in the detailed headstock drawing.
The casting is fairly thick and I was able to drill and tap blind holes for the retainer screws.

 

[RobinHood]

My spindle seems a bit stiff (not unreasonable) but that may be just from sitting for a few years. I'll get a few hours of run time before I start messing with things.

I did follow the manual to set the bearing pre-load. Made for a very stiff spindle and it heated up to where I was no longer comfortable running it (could no longer touch it) when I was doing a project that required 1000 to 1400 rpm for about 6 hours. So I backed off the pre-load and set it by “feel” ( I know, not very scientific). Ended up a little too slack. So I tightened it a bit more and now I can run all day without the bearing getting more than warm to the touch - probably around 45*C - 50*C now.

 

[YotaBota]

Sometimes "by feel" is the best way.
I got a couple hours of time in this afternoon with great success, the lathe ran with no issues. The bearings were warm to the touch but not warm enough to be of any concern. I was working on the handles for the mill hand wheels and used the TA to shape the handles, alot smoother than trying to taper by compound.

 

[RobinHood]

I think you are set then: warm is good.

From the looks of it and the description you gave us, those bearings are perhaps not even run in. The fact that it is now being used again, is actually a good thing for the machine.

 

[YotaBota]

The fact that it is now being used again, is actually a good thing for the machine.

Agree, better to be used than sit and get gummed up and rot.
The machine didn't come with a live or dead center so darned if I'm not gonna have to go shoppin.

 

[YotaBota]

Just a quick update, the machine is running beyond my expectations. It does everything I ask, right or wrong it still does what I ask, lol.
I got a text the other day from the person who sold me the lathe, he found the original manual for the lathe! I picked it up yesterday and it is the same as the one on line but I don't need the computer to read it. Also in the book was some papers dating the lathe, 2001 was the purchase year. I also learned the older gentleman worked on model steam engines and used the lathe mainly for the smaller parts, brass fittings and such. No wonder it's in such good shape.
Also in the paperwork is most of the manual for a 6300 Clausing lathe, pages 5 to 20, if anyone has this lathe and wants the manual pm me your address and it's yours.

 

[Darren]

The VFD showed up today so cleaning is being delayed for a bit while I rewire. But for now here's a few pictures of the cleanup. The last picture seems to be the "holy grail" of SM lathes, lol

MAN! that is a nice machine! I learned on an 1120. I own a 1660 now. That taper attachment in particular makes every othe taper attachment look silly. SM makes nice machines.

 

[YotaBota]

Thanks D, I got lucky finding this one.

SM makes nice machines

Couldn't agree more. For me to have a 1660 it would need to go where the other half parks her car,,,,,,, ain't gonna happen. lol

 

[Darren]

Thanks D, I got lucky finding this one.

Couldn't agree more. For me to have a 1660 it would need to go where the other half parks her car,,,,,,, ain't gonna happen. lol

lol its not THAT big. But would she really mind?