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Tool Slitting Saw Holder

Tool
The trouble with an easy to use 3D CAD program is it's like 3D printing and infectious. Hey, I'll draw one of those...
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The up side of this approach is it requires less material removal from the 1.5" diameter stock compared to the other model. But it requires getting or having the screw. And since it's turned from a number of different sides, like those YouTube videos it does take way more time and measurement to get everything to fit precisely.

Most of the slitting saws from Aliexpress have smaller holes. Even Busybee where I bought my kit of 3 saws and arbour doesn't have it in stock and the holes are no longer keyed or 1" ID. Grizzly Tools has saws with 1" ID.

Now I can't make up my mind.

OTOH, once calibrated all it requires is an offset to an edge of the installed blade and then it becomes part of the tool table and the blade cutting position is always known.
 
Here are the Ali arbors I bought if you are looking for more data points. I tried one of each style for the 2 primary hole diameters, they are both well made. I suppose you could remove the blade with the tool still in machine for the bottom cap style vs not for the other, but its probably not a common machining op anyway. I bought a lookalike from another dealer (Azzkor), it was OK but not as nice as below. The runout on the arbor shank & saw surface was excellent, I suspect better than most saw holes but overall I'm happy with my Chinese purchases. Note the thread direction.

I bought my blades from same seller (Zhongyinc Store). Way more graduated diameter/thickness selection, but all metric of course. You can also find better quality HSS blades on Ali (with a flashlight & duck whistle) - but you may have to try different keywords like 'stainless saw'. Heck they sell carbide for similar prices as some HSS N-Am import/re-packagers. Once upon a time KBC carried eastern Europe saws but they slipped in some Indian soup can lids so I'm done with them.


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PeterT said:
Here are the Ali arbors I bought if you are looking for more data points. I tried one of each style for the 2 primary hole diameters, they are both well made. I suppose you could remove the blade with the tool still in machine for the bottom cap style vs not for the other, but its probably not a common machining op anyway. I bought a lookalike from another dealer (Azzkor), it was OK but not as nice as below. The runout on the arbor shank & saw surface was excellent, I suspect better than most saw holes but overall I'm happy with my Chinese purchases. Note the thread direction.

I bought my blades from same seller (Zhongyinc Store). Way more graduated diameter/thickness selection, but all metric of course. You can also find better quality HSS blades on Ali (with a flashlight & duck whistle) - but you may have to try different keywords like 'stainless saw'. Heck they sell carbide for similar prices as some HSS N-Am import/re-packagers. Once upon a time KBC carried eastern Europe saws but they slipped in some Indian soup can lids so I'm done with them.


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Unfortunately that link only shows the metric ones so if I chose one of those I'd also find the price would be higher because I'd need blades too. And likely to get a clean fit, an R8 metric collet for 20mm for example.

I think I'm going to do the rear locking. Then in the future look at some place like your link for a set of cutter and matching arbour. At some point I'm sure I'm going to toast the 1" ID cutters. Here's the drawing I'm going to work from. Should probably put a note on it to remind me that it's a LH thread.
 

Attachments

And the shaft is enlarged to 0.75" since that fits the R8 Collet used with the TTS holders. That way I don't have to pull out that collet. And there's less material to remove.

Edit: Attached the correct drawing pdf
 

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You will find very little Imperial on Ali unless you mean R8 & MT tapers. Its a predominantly metric world. That's why I thought I'd mention now before you got going. It was the saw availability & price combination that made me bite the bullet & go metric. I can't think of any personal projects where slits just had to be IMP vs a close MET equivalent. I have some nice Bison/TMX imperial saw arbors I'll probably only use once in a blue moon because I bought IMP saws on need be basis.
 
jcdammeyer said:
The trouble with an easy to use 3D CAD program is it's like 3D printing and infectious. Hey, I'll draw one of those...
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Oh I hope to live long enough that I too could have that "trouble" someday. Unfortunately, I haven't been committed enough to the learning process so CAD program for me hasn't even got to first base.

Yours (and others) CAD drawings are wonderful ways of understanding the proposed projects....keep up the good work.
 
PeterT said:
You will find very little Imperial on Ali unless you mean R8 & MT tapers. Its a predominantly metric world. That's why I thought I'd mention now before you got going. It was the saw availability & price combination that made me bite the bullet & go metric. I can't think of any personal projects where slits just had to be IMP vs a close MET equivalent. I have some nice Bison/TMX imperial saw arbors I'll probably only use once in a blue moon because I bought IMP saws on need be basis.
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Only because the 3 saws I have use a 25.4mm internal hole with a 6.35mm key slot. None of the saws out there nowadays even appear to have a key slot.

Edit: Oh and the thin one I want to use is 1.5875mm thick.
 
But speaking of arbors. I did get started this evening. Chucked and faced off a piece of rusty 1.25" HRS. Center drilled, then 1/4", final hole was 1/2" and then straight up to 19mm which has a 1/2" shank. (Lathe Tailstock drill chuck limits drill diameter).

Initial19mmHole.jpg

After that bore to the top of the thread dimension listed in my drawing. I like following directions so that's why I make drawings to follow.

Next make an exact 1.001" hole and then thread LH 20 TPI.

LH20TPI.jpg
 
I haven't looked close enough, but I'm wondering if the metric arbour could be modified to fit imperial saws.
 
Maybe bushings & spacers for certain size cases but might be more trouble than its worth vs just making one from scratch. The bottom cap style has the saw ID = plug OD = arbor ID. Possibly the top nut style but there very little diametric difference between the saw hand OD & fine threads so you don't have much margin depending on the saw hole size.


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Part of the cost is a 25/32 R8 collet or 20mm R8 collet to actually hold one of those 20mm shaft Aliexpress holders. And the removal/replace sequence of the TTS .75" R8 collet after using the slitting saw. The holder that broke had a 1/2" shaft with a flat and fit into a TTS 1/2" mill holder.

My initial drawing had a 1/2" shaft to fit into the same TTS holder. I've since enlarged that to 3/4" but didn't really make it longer so I think rev 3 drawing will extend that to give the slitting saw better reach. Maybe an extra 25.4mm. ;)
 
Given that we want everything concentric it seems an ideal project for between centers. Although once I have the main shaft down to 0.75" I could put it in the 5C collet and turn the rest that way rather than reversing it between centers and moving the drive dog to hold the 0.75" part.
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Got to head out now. Will finish this later.
 
jcdammeyer said:
Given that we want everything concentric it seems an ideal project for between centers. Although once I have the main shaft down to 0.75" I could put it in the 5C collet and turn the rest that way rather than reversing it between centers and moving the drive dog to hold the 0.75" part.
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Got to head out now. Will finish this later.
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Gawd this HRS is soft crap! Or my lathe is old. Or the operator is incompetent. The carbide tool does have a tiny chip in it.

Or all of the above.

I'll turn the cutter around when I'm closer to the final diameter.
 
I have had a number of commercial slitting saw arbors and have been frustrated with all of them. The arbor would either protrude well bellow the saw and interfere with the work piece or the arbor was too short and the mill column would make clearance issue above the saw. I made this one to have minimal protrusion below the saw and with a long 3/4 inch shank so I could get better clearance from the mill spindle. I hold the shank in an R8 collet. I've used it several times and am so far pleased.
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ducdon said:
4 inches.
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Ah. Now I understand the ruler beside it photo. From that perspective I wasn't sure where it started.

I wasn't sure if I could make something that long that wouldn't wobble so I've gone for 2.75". I can turn some of it down to 1/2" and add a set screw flat and then put it into a TTS holder which would extend it.
 
ducdon said:
The arbor would either protrude well bellow the saw and interfere with the work piece or the arbor was too short and the mill column would make clearance issue above the saw.
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To my eye, it looks like you could lose the washer and recess/countersink the entire machine screw head to gain clearance below the saw blade.
 
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