I haven't seen those variable speed controls before, are they SB and what motor are you running ?
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Tips/Techniques Show your shop related 3DP
- Thread starter PeterT
- Start date
Tips/Techniques
Actually there really is no reason not to make a ramp on both sides, just mirror it. Then it wouldn't matter which way the lid went on. The thicker clasp on the lid is the only unique feature. I might make the thumbnail part a bit bigger. I was also thinking of something more like a circular groove on the inside corner to act like a flexure vs the sharp 90-deg corner. Details, details...
printing now in red. about an hour for the lid and 90 minutes for the box.
We need a plug in for xenforo to let you view and spin the .stl files...
That's pretty cool you can make those. For a couple tool sets I bought old empty snap on cases, hollowed out the innards and made them fit. I never would have thought of being able to make my own cases
@Janger & @PeterT
I like my stuff to fit without wasted spaces between things. Consider moving those hinges inside the box. A cone head screw could be mounted flat to the outside of the case. Put all your reinforcements inside so the only wasted space is for the hinge itself. A 3D printer should make that easy to do.
Inside hinges allow for boxes that can cuddle together without all that wasted space between them and behind them. An inside hinge also makes a propped lid (opens to say 120° or so) much easier to do.
I like my stuff to fit without wasted spaces between things. Consider moving those hinges inside the box. A cone head screw could be mounted flat to the outside of the case. Put all your reinforcements inside so the only wasted space is for the hinge itself. A 3D printer should make that easy to do.
Inside hinges allow for boxes that can cuddle together without all that wasted space between them and behind them. An inside hinge also makes a propped lid (opens to say 120° or so) much easier to do.
MrWhoopee
Super User
I'm running the original 1 hp, 2-speed, 3-phase motor powered and controlled by a Vevor 2.2kw VFD. I gutted the drum switch and wired it to the VFD low voltage inputs for forward and reverse. The speed control is just a 10k ohm potentiometer also wired to the VFD inputs and the tach is a $20 unit off eBay with a hall effect pickup. I printed the the tach housing and pot mount.
Nice, thanks.
You know those instrument battery covers with the slot? Yes, the slot made to no particular standardized width, each one is a bit different. Maybe they are based on Asian coins because Canuck coins aren't much better fit than stamped metal ones assuming one was included. I just 3DP'd as set in various incremental thicknesses. Hint, don't use a blade screwdriver, they are guaranteed to mangle the soft plastic.
Attachments
This is an example of something I've been doing more as of late. When you want to fit something with some degree of snugness but the printer tolerance and/or part tolerance can vary a bit so it becomes a trial & error repetition. Sometimes its easier to make the cavity match the actual part dimension, but add some kind of flexure slot so there is some give in the surrounding material.
