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Sawing Metal

LRSbm146 said:
I can’t say enough good things about the Milwaukee portaband. Best $300-350 saw you can buy. Just my opinion. 3 pack of blades for under $20. It walks through everything...
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Looks awesome. Are you cutting that plate or is it a table you made for it?
 
@Susquatch its a table. Made a couple mini saw horses for supporting longer pieces as well. I’m really surprised with this saw and how tight it runs the blade.... helps big time with making straight cuts
 
Those saws are pretty impressive.
So what's the deal on blades? I know its hard to judge life span, but would it be, say, about the same as a bandsaw blade all things equal? Then what, is it carbide sharpening services time or is chuck & replace cost about the same? I always wonder about aluminum (the gummy materials) are they OK without fluids?
 
PeterT said:
Those saws are pretty impressive.
So what's the deal on blades? I know its hard to judge life span, but would it be, say, about the same as a bandsaw blade all things equal? Then what, is it carbide sharpening services time or is chuck & replace cost about the same? I always wonder about aluminum (the gummy materials) are they OK without fluids?
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Blades are very expensive yeah. I've probably done a couple hundred cuts with this blade so far, mostly in 1.5 inch and 2.0 inch square tube along with 1/4"x3" flat bar while I was building the shelving and lathe stand...can't say it's taken any noticeable wear yet. I would say better life than the portaband blades I've used, but not sure as compared to a full size bandsaw.

When it gets dull, I will probably buy a new blade and maybe find someone to sharpen the other one or worst case save it for rough cuts. The trick with these blades is to go gentle and never let it chatter, just like carbide inserts, they don't like interrupted cuts.

As for aluminum, the round bar just threw chips everywhere...blade didn't seem to care at all. Likely because of how big the teeth are, plenty of room to clear.
 
I've been using my mitre saw and Sears Radial arm saw for cutting aluminium for years with a high tooth count blade for non ferrous metals (thick heavy stock is possible and I've done it but.....). With all rotatory saws there are risks because fast blade speed increase projectile speeds when things go wrong. I'll post a pic of blade destroyed last week after well over 8,000 cuts on aluminium after a moments brain fart (body parts intact and no holes, luckily).
 
Let the saw blade do the work.
Light cut pressure,
*Soluble oil for steel, Varsol for Aluminum*
The worst thing is to use a New blade in an already started cut by a worn blade.
(You will quickly wear the kerf off and there goes your cut clearance)
 
SomeGuy said:
Here ya go, dry cut saw in action:


First time I've cut solid material with it (not tube)...it just ate through the aluminum with no effort.
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The chop saw is a good option for Aluminum, we used to use it for thousands of cuts in a production shop.

Carbon steel you need to slow down the blade speed and use some soluble oil or Quik Kut.

If you use too much cut force the blade will wander and your cut will look like you are working on a slant (or side hill).
 
On rotary blades wax! Best thing ever. Beeswax Parafin wax, specialty wax. Cheapest possible. Old candle stick wax, just no wicks in them or a finger count may be needed!

BTW Works great on any cutting tool.
 
LenVW said:
The chop saw is a good option for Aluminum, we used to use it for thousands of cuts in a production shop.

Carbon steel you need to slow down the blade speed and use some soluble oil or Quik Kut.

If you use too much cut force the blade will wander and your cut will look like you are working on a slant (or side hill).
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Keep in mind this is not just a chop saw with a different blade....this saw turns at 1300rpm, not the 3500+ rpm of most abrasive chop saws.
 
This saw is an old friend , it has served me well and has mostly been reliable.

I bought this at Princess auto 20 years ago , it has worked hard !

I've hot rodded it a bit , the motor went up in smoke many years ago , it's got a washing machine motor on it now. The plastic tensioning knobs failed years ago , I made two new ones out of aluminum . This saw just keeps going and going .

IMG_1605.JPG
 
On my 7x12 saw, i'm using old used dexcool antifreeze as cutting fluid/coolant. It is slick between the fingers and seems to do a really good job. And better yet, free.

If you have dogs, don't use green antifreeze. My dogs won't touch dexcool, but ive heard that dogs like green antifreeze, and it will kill them.
 
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Here is the photo of the blade, notice the teeth are missing, broken right off. I amazed how tough the carbide on these blades are despite the impact caused during the damage the surviving teeth had extremely little damage.

Blade is made by Peak, they took over what was BC Saw and Tool on Evans Ave in Toronto. I've been using this location for all of my sharpening for years and yes they do custom grinds for special applications. (Yes they are still there and prices are extremely reasonable).

Note, this is a 10" 100 tooth count with a negative as it assists with any overhead saws in pressing the material ti the table. Yes an 80 count would cause less load on the saw, but with the higher count you have less chance of too big of a bite causing damage. Draw back is possible scarf filling gullets but that is easily solved, slower but safer feed rate resulting in extremely good finishes.
image.jpg
 
dfloen said:
On my 7x12 saw, i'm using old used dexcool antifreeze as cutting fluid/coolant. It is slick between the fingers and seems to do a really good job. And better yet, free.

If you have dogs, don't use green antifreeze. My dogs won't touch dexcool, but ive heard that dogs like green antifreeze, and it will kill them.
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Any anti-freeze is bad for animals (humans kids included, yes kids have animal moments ask any parent), it contains polypropylene glycol this is what is dangerous and attracts them.
 
I'm sure it is. But dexcool has a bitter taste and dogs won't touch it. My system is self contained so it's not a concern.
 
thestelster said:
When I bought the saw, used, it did not come with a table to use it in the vertical position. An 8"x8" piece of plywood, 1/2" thick did the trick (for now at least.)
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My used sister to yours came with the table. The table is a total piece of junk. Your plywood table is prolly WAY BETTER!

I plan to replace mine with a piece of 3/8" plate aluminium or 1/4" steel (maybe even stainless).

The weak link is the two mounting screws though. They won't take a lot of weight or counter any pressure on the table. So some sort of quick release support will also be required.
 
Susquatch said:
My used sister to yours came with the table. The table is a total piece of junk. Your plywood table is prolly WAY BETTER!

I plan to replace mine with a piece of 3/8" plate aluminium or 1/4" steel (maybe even stainless).

The weak link is the two mounting screws though. They won't take a lot of weight or counter any pressure on the table. So some sort of quick release support will also be required.
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You might also plan for some outrigger support arms to make the table square to the blade.
 
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