Sawing Metal

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I like that outfeed table. Making an outfeed table is something I've been meaning to do to mine, but just never get around to. That and a table to use in vertical mode.

Think of the calories you saved not hacking that by hand :D.
I have 2 of those stands when I use to do a bunch of woodworking at one time. I had to cut the centre post of this stand to get low enough. I enjoy burning calories!! Wisely though!
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Its a 14tpi blade. I just picked up the bandsaw yesterday. Used, of course, so I don't know how often the blade has been used. But, I just realized the tension spring for the feed rate was at its tightest. So I've backed it off now, and it does seem to go quicker. Plus, I'm not using any coolant or lube.
 

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Well, the first test run went pretty well. The factory saw blade 14tpi. Aluminium 6061, 4"x3". It cut straighter than I was expecting. Cutting time 22minutes, at 200fpm.
You need a courser blade 4-6 tooth is likely the largest you can get. Biggest issue is going to be scarf getting caught in the teeth with AL, if this happens you will get binding and the blade will pull off the wheels, once this starts happening it just gets worse as the blade wears, damages teeth and stretches unevenly (I had a steep and expensive (blade replacement) learning curve on large heavy cuts of Aluminium), one other thing blade tightness is your friend, tight as possible without deflecting or causing excessive wear on the machine.

Steel is easy compared to Aluminium, lot more leeway in what you do.
 
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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Steel is easy compared to Aluminium, lot more leeway in what you do.

Isn't this forum awesome!

Cutting steel is a piece of cake compared to aluminium! Who would have thunk it!

I'll never look at a chunk of aluminium the same again......

My Spindle Motor (tool post grinder) Mount is hiding inside this scary looking 4x4x5 block......

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I was going to take a hack saw to it first...... Now, maybe not.....
 
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YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Isn't this forum awesome!

Cutting steel is a piece of cake compared to aluminium! Who would have thunk it!

I'll never look at a chunk of aluminium the same again.....

Aluminum gives me the most amount of grief by far. Binding, stalls, blade jumping off the wheels. Sometimes 2 or 3 times making a single cut. Every blade I have broken has been from cutting aluminum.
 
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thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
So, I chopped 3 slabs of AL6061 from that large chunk that I had. 4" x4" x1" slabs. Look at those dimensions, and standard deviation. I don't know, but that looks pretty impressive. With no skill on my part, other than squaring the fence and finagling different ways to hold it in the vice. Ok, it took 16-18 minutes of cutting time for each piece, but at least I was able to do other work in the mean time. It's still a piece of junk, and needs a lot of refinement, but wow, simply wow!
 

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Biggest thing with Aluminium is scarf build up. I've tried fluid (my machine has it built in), speciality fluids brush applied, no luck. I cut dry now with great success following the rules below.

The bigger the stock the courser the blade must be, unfortunately anything below 3/4" blade size limits what is available.

Second is blade tension, it should be on the higher side (not so much to damage the machine or wear out the bearings).

Feed rate, slow it down, if you are experiencing blade jumping, binding, popping off wheels, slow it down.

Last once you start experiencing this, it is only going to get worse, the blade is done for Aluminium (so at all costs reduce your feed rate at the beginning). Lots of life left for steel unless you broke a tooth.

The important note here for Aluminium is the width of the cut (blade length in material) the wider it is the more pronounced the issue is as the scarf heats and sticks to the blade and itself in the cut just before it clears the end of the cut :mad:

Steel on the other hand because of the hardness, chips tend to be smaller the scarf does not fill the tooth gullet. Hence high feed rates can be set to maximize cut.
 
So, I chopped 3 slabs of AL6061 from that large chunk that I had. 4" x4" x1" slabs. Look at those dimensions, and standard deviation. I don't know, but that looks pretty impressive. With no skill on my part, other than squaring the fence and finagling different ways to hold it in the vice. Ok, it took 16-18 minutes of cutting time for each piece, but at least I was able to do other work in the mean time. It's still a piece of junk, and needs a lot of refinement, but wow, simply wow!
Yes initial tune in the saw makes a big difference, even on the small ones. Once they are set up just keep an eye on them and you'll be happy.
 
Since I went to flood coolant on my 7 X 12 saw I've no more problems with aluminum
I don't have issues on mine until I get past 6" give or take, I do a lot of cutting at 12" wide and 1/2" to 1" thick, max of the saw width. At this width coolant or no, it all comes down to feed rate. I prefer without, no issues and less mess on the floor with coolant run off (pieces are 12x24x1/2 so there is spillage no matter what). Cut time same with or without.

I will admit it is a nice feature to have when you need it.
 

LenVW

Process Machinery Designer
Premium Member
Just got a Wen portable band saw for $139 from Amazon. Bolted it to a Princess Auto portable bandsaw stand with vise ($75). I guessed (correctly) that all the Chinese portable band saws are of the same design - so they did bolt together. It's awesome! (5" x 5" capacity)
Excellent, I am headed to PA later today.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
The bigger the stock the courser the blade must be, unfortunately anything below 3/4" blade size limits what is available.

Second is blade tension, it should be on the higher side (not so much to damage the machine or wear out the bearings).

Feed rate, slow it down, if you are experiencing blade jumping, binding, popping off wheels, slow it down.

So.... I'm thinking maybe I should relegate aluminum to my PHS with a 10 TPI PHS blade. It cuts slower and the down feed is strictly gravity. Aluminum on my bandsaw has been a real PITA.

What do you think?
 
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So.... I'm thinking maybe I should relegate aluminum to my PHS with a 10 TPI PHS blade. It cuts slower and the down feed is strictly gravity. Aluminum on my bandsaw has been areal PITA.

What do you think?
Good, do you have anything coarser? A 6 maybe? Also look at variable pitch blades 8-10 or 4-6. They help with harmonics in the blade.
 
Have to see if I can get anything courser. PHS blades are thicker as well.
Sorry not aware of them, most of the saws are either 0.030 or 0.035 with the latter being the most common (unless you get into bigger machines). I'd hate to see thicker on smaller saws (7x12's and down) as the stiffness in the blade would likely cause excessive load on the machine as the bladed is forced into the cutting plain. Just my 2 cents.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Sorry not aware of them, most of the saws are either 0.030 or 0.035 with the latter being the most common (unless you get into bigger machines). I'd hate to see thicker on smaller saws (7x12's and down) as the stiffness in the blade would likely cause excessive load on the machine as the bladed is forced into the cutting plain. Just my 2 cents.

The coarsest I could find in a 12" blade....

 

LRSbm146

Member
I can’t say enough good things about the Milwaukee portaband. Best $300-350 saw you can buy. Just my opinion. 3 pack of blades for under $20. It walks through everything...
Was cutting 1-1/2” titanium bar in under a minute with a fresh blade. Had a bench top “chop” style previously and it never made a straight cut twice, under powered, and blades were expensive.
 

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