RF30 Basement Install

[DavidR8]

@David_R8 Did you remove it to measure it? Any images of the overall Gibb?

Craig

I did remove it to measure it.
I didn’t take an over all picture though I can.
The number “40” is stamped on the edge near the adjustment slot. Not sure what that means.


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[Brent H]

@David_R8 - Ah HA! So your gib is pinned to the base and thus the base has the taper cut into it and the table should then have parallel dovetail ways. The dimension top to bottom on your gib should be the same (white measure lines on the photo)

The top white arrow is pointing to the gap between the top of the gib and the table - ample room for the gib to be made with these faces parallel. The red arrow is pointing at a wee landing? maybe just a mark?

I am trying to calculate what the angle would be for the taper of the gib and it would appear to be sin-1(.3735-.2092/14) =0.672 degree. @YYCHobbyMachinist gib appears to be sin-1(0.458-0.265/15) = 0.737 degrees. that would be a difference of 0.065 degrees. The height difference from 1.2755 to 1.221 on @David_R8 s gib is probably just bad finish with @YYCHobbyMachinist 1.182 being a bit worse.

If I have the length of cast iron in the right width it would not be impossible to machine a really close gib that you could then hand scrap to fit. The 1.182 is pretty close to 30 mm and probably should be 32.5 to be the right height overall.....interesting stuff

 

[DavidR8]

Mine is a 1980 Long Chang LC-30A. Aside from the VFD conversion it is completely stock and had never been disassembled.

What make is this mill?

There are probably a few folks over at Hobby-Machinist.com who have the same mill who would be willing to measure their gib.

 

[Dabbler]

@David_R8 - you see how your gibb runs in contact with the horizontal part of the dovetail at the thicker end? A properly installed gibb, properly made, will have the gibb running on the horizontal part of the dovetail for the entire length. Even yours appears to be riding off that part of the dovetail.

 

[DavidR8]

@David_R8 - you see how your gibb runs in contact with the horizontal part of the dovetail at the thicker end? A properly installed gibb, properly made, will have the gibb running on the horizontal part of the dovetail for the entire length. Even yours appears to be riding off that part of the dovetail.

Perhaps that’s the way they are designed?


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[YYCHM]

Mine is a 1980 Long Chang LC-30A. Aside from the VFD conversion it is completely stock and had never been disassembled.

What make is this mill?

There are probably a few folks over at Hobby-Machinist.com who have the same mill who would be willing to measure their gib.

House of Tools branded. Has no model number on it anywhere that I can find.

Guys, even with this Gibb glitch, I'm tickled pink with my purchase. As far as I know, I'm the second owner and in general it appears minty with little use. Any swarf I have found on it has been aluminum.

Man... I stepped up from 1/2HP and 100# to 2HP and 600# for a price that was well within my budget. It is the max size I could ever get into my basement shop and in fact is maybe a little too big.

After figuring out the Gibb lock work around it's well within my accuracy needs at this point in time.

Will keep poking at the Gibb problem, but in the mean time I'll be using her.

Craig

 

[DavidR8]

I would dare say that every RF30 and clone is exactly the same. And there’s tons of folks turning out high quality work on them.
I’m very happy that the issue got sorted out for you Craig.
Well done to everyone who contributed thoughts and hands on help. Great community effort!


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[YYCHM]

I’m very happy that the issue got sorted out for you Craig.

I wouldn't say the issue is sorted out yet, but rather understood and a tolerable in term solution was arrived at.

To muddy the waters member @kylemp is sitting on a spare table and saddle but is reluctant to let the Gibb go and I can understand that. We wouldn't really know if it fits my machine without trying it. His table and saddle may be the solution down the road?

I assumed every RF30 clone would be the same but perhaps not. Your mill has a different table locking arrangement than mine.

Ya, we have some great people on this forum @Dabbler has probably donated 10+ hours hands on time to this issue. @RobinHood 4+ hours hands on. @Brent H is standing by to make me a new Gibb. We will figure it out.

Craig

 

[CalgaryPT]

I think we all get a bit OCD about machine precision. As long as the machine works to create parts with acceptable tolerances, then all is good! If the parts coming off this machine are too far out AND it is because of the gib, THEN figure out a solution.

Elsewhere on the internet, it seems that Richard King is considered a top notch machine rebuilder. However, I believe he generally starts with the question "How precise does the machine need to be?" IOW, every rebuilt machine still has a level of imprecision no matter how much money is spent.

Craig

That's advice worth framing, and to live by.

 

[YYCHM]

You know what..... Apart from the Gibb installation issue, if my new vise had a reference surface to mount it with a machinist square, I'd probably be oblivious to the table wiggle issue and still find that it's doing what I needed to do LOL. Come to think of it, I performaned that exercise with the T-Nuts.

 

[YYCHM]

@Dabbler / @RobinHood could you please post an image or link to the pressure oiler nipples (?) you suggested I install on the saddle to lubricate the table and saddle dovetails. The only things I'm familiar with are Gits oilers and grease gun nipples. I want to start gathering the bits and pieces needed to install the dovetail oiling ports. Also need to know where to source them from.

Thanks,

Craig

 

[Dabbler]

A gits oiler would work just fine. you need a pressure oiler for it however. The ones I am familiar with (I don't have one any more) look like a 1.5" diameter syringe, except you push on the body, and develop the pressure by doing that. The nipples I am referring to look like grease nipples - I don't know if there's a difference.

Every once in a while I look on the internet for a pressure oiler, but they are expensive and I don't need one for my machines, so I never end up buying one.

 

[Dabbler]

[update] I can't find any of the lock on high pressure oilers on the internet... I don't know why...

 

[RobinHood]

Here is a link to a pressure oiler that is used with regular zerk (grease) fittings:
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/39976709



This one is used with Gits oilers or zerk fittings.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/39976402

 

[Dabbler]

The bottom one is exactly like the one I used to have (but in red)!!

 

[RobinHood]

Here is my German Made Hallbauer. Seems Acklands-Grainger is selling them.



I modified a regular grease gun for pressure-oiling the Bridgeport Mill before I installed central (one shot) lube. Worked great. Got “lazy” to lube the 9 points (some were pretty tough to get to) hence the central lube upgrade.

 

[YYCHM]

I have 5 X 6mm and 3X 8mm spare Gits oilers and know where to get more 8mm (maybe). Would those work along with this https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/39976402 ? Why wouldn't a regular trigger style oil can suffice?

Where to drill the lubrication ports is the next question. I take it we are trying to get oil down to the horizonal dove tail flats that the table and saddle ride on?

Craig

 

[RobinHood]

The reason for the pressure oiler is to force oil along horizontal/vertical passages. Unpressurized oiling system rely on gravity to distribute the oil. On a mill, oil points are usually in the saddle -> the table ways are above; therefore, gravity feed does not work. Hence the pressure oiler. You don’t really want oil points in the table -> very difficult to keep clean, and can interfere with clamping of parts.

As far as location on your mill specifically: depends what tools you have to drill oil passages.

Yes, ALL sliding surfaces need a supply of oil.

 

[YYCHM]

I was thinking of drilling the table and installing Gits oilers below the table surface? Maybe I should drill the table ways on the saddle and intersect those passages with a passages drilled on the front and back of the table? Same idea for the saddle to base ways only up side down and the intersecting passages coming in from the sides of the saddle? I suppose with that arrangement I could install zerk fittings and really pressure the oil in.

Was thinking when the time comes (I'm going to wait until I have DRO scales to install) I would take the table and saddle to someone with a functioning mill to have all the holes drilled in one go. Along with the lubrications passages, and DRO mounting holes I will want to add x-axis Gibb adjustment screw holes as well.

Craig

 

[Brent H]

Hey Craig,

this is what I have in cast iron :

Just over 14.5”

The narrower piece is less than an inch wide (.900) and less than 3/4 thick (.700). Not sure if either piece would work?