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RF30 Basement Install

Something is amiss if the table doesn't slide freely on the ways without the gib strip in place. It should not need the lead screw to jack it at all. Its only sliding on the horizontal surfaces until the gib comes into play to laterally mate it to the dovetails. In fact most common mill disassembly is you remove the leadscrew end guides, unscrew the leadscrew from the nut, remove the gib strip & slide off the table. The initial alignment when installing or the last couple inches when dismantling is the only tricky bit where you have to have table supported & aligned because its cantilevered off the center base. But obviously you got that far already.

Looking at some of the previous pics - wasn't the gib in position & presumably the table moving smoothly? What changed?
 
I had a good look at it. I've disassembled 5 mills and reassembled 4 of them (one is pending) I've never seen anything like this. We got a little grime out, and we got one burr out, and the gibb advanced 3/8" towards the correct position. After that we could get no further. I'm stumped!

With the gibb out about 1/2" too far, the table moves smoothly. advance it 1/8 of an inch, and everything locks up. I'm certain it is assembled correctly. Only one place for the gibb adjustment screw. Only one orientation for the gibb to engage the screw. Just like every other mill I've seen, except not working. :(:mad:o_O:eek:
 
To check the gib strip for warpage or schmeg, lay it on your mill table on each prism face. A flashlight will help to see any gap if its bowed high in the center low on the ends. Or if its high on either end you should be able to anchor an end & notice it can be rocked slightly. It will most likely be tapered but it should be planar (flat) on each face.
 
1) Something is amiss if the table doesn't slide freely on the ways without the gib strip in place.

2) Looking at some of the previous pics - wasn't the gib in position & presumably the table moving smoothly? What changed?

1) The table moves freely with the gib removed. It doesn't move freely when the gib is installed, it binds.

2) What happened was I disassemble it to move it into my basement LOL.
 
Can the table be started from the left side if the gib is put in the correct position?
 
Hey Craig,

You mentioned the x and y axis are same gibs, have you tried swapping them?

Any chance of distorting the base with bolting it down?
 
MAXSLIDE (1).JPG


So with the gib installed that's as far as the table can be slid by hand.

MAXSLIDE (2).JPG


With the lead screw installed I can crank her from stop to stop, but 2/3 of that is a two fisted operation.

I'm pretty sure that gib is slightly bowed and that's what's causing all of this grief.
 
Hey Craig,

You mentioned the x and y axis are same gibs, have you tried swapping them?

Any chance of distorting the base with bolting it down?

That wasn't me. They are distinctly different lengths. No chance of mixing them up.

No way of distorting that base. It's a heavy, thick piece of cast iron.
 
Lay the gib out on the milling table top and see if there is light under it - as in your "bowed" philosophy - Mill table should be somewhat flat if you have no other source?
 
That wasn't me. They are distinctly different lengths. No chance of mixing them up.

No way of distorting that base. It's a heavy, thick piece of cast iron.
I'm not saying the base IS distorted but I AM saying that it is totally possible to do and easy than you think. A distortion of 20 thousands will make things bind. Did you try things with the base unbolted?
 
Lay the gib out on the milling table top and see if there is light under it - as in your "bowed" philosophy - Mill table should be somewhat flat if you have no other source?

With the gib set into position on it's saddle dovetail there was an ever so slight rock to it. Holding a straight edge to it seemed to showed a slight bow. I'm pretty sure that thing is flat on the saddle side and tapered on the table side. Strange arrangement and not sure I understand how that would allow the table to sit square with the saddle.
 
We worked with the base completely separately for over 1/2 hour. All dovetails were checked. the gibb was stoned on both major surfaces. That only leaves the two minor gibb surfaces. It's the only thing I didn't check.
 
The only suggestion I have is to blue up the gib and see where the rub is happening?

Blued and installed. How many times should I crank this table back and forth before pulling it out to have a look?

TIGHTSPOT.JPG


Well, I didn't have to look to far. As soon as the table approaches this part of the gibb she binds. I rolled the table back to expose more of the gib and didn't see any thing significant past this point.

Do I dare stone her in place?

REMOVEBIBHERE.JPG


Also, I discovered that if you position max right with the lead screw installed you can get the gibb in and out with just a few love taps. My love tap hammer is on the left in this image.

Craig
 
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I would pull it out to stone it.
Are there no marks on the rest of it?
 
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