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Plasma cutter for under $300!!
- Thread starter djberta
- Start date
That's just weird. There already is an air hose built into the big cable, and it looks stronger than that reinforced hose. There is a quick connect on the back of the unit too!
At this point, I think @Jswain is probably right. It could be a drain hose for the air filter.
@CWret - I have a few steel 50gal drums. What did you put on top of yours to hold your stock?
slow-poke
Ultra Member
I ordered the bestarc one, will be here shortly.
Thinking ahead to using it, I'm going to need something to place under whatever I'm cutting. I don't have or have room for one of those fancy perforated welding tables. I'm thinking small and portable would be good. Perhaps a porcelain tile?
Any suggestions?
I'm also curious why the arc doesn't burn through the grate on the fancy tables?
Thinking ahead to using it, I'm going to need something to place under whatever I'm cutting. I don't have or have room for one of those fancy perforated welding tables. I'm thinking small and portable would be good. Perhaps a porcelain tile?
Any suggestions?
I'm also curious why the arc doesn't burn through the grate on the fancy tables?
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Here's the post I couldn't find -- plasma water table post 66 at the end. I'll get some better pics later today
Hi,
Maybe the members have done something like this, or have some ideas / warnings I should think about.
I've been asked to prepare a class for my fellow engineering staff members. None of them have any mechanical experience but they have university degrees of various levels. Let's ignore the subject of "we can't hire smart guys anymore" and just stick to the subject of training the guys I have
It's a group of 4, mostly young guys, and maybe I'll get some interest from others in the company. I'll cap it at 6 so I can keep my attention focused.
I have access to a sheet metal and light...
Maybe the members have done something like this, or have some ideas / warnings I should think about.
I've been asked to prepare a class for my fellow engineering staff members. None of them have any mechanical experience but they have university degrees of various levels. Let's ignore the subject of "we can't hire smart guys anymore" and just stick to the subject of training the guys I have
It's a group of 4, mostly young guys, and maybe I'll get some interest from others in the company. I'll cap it at 6 so I can keep my attention focused.I have access to a sheet metal and light...
Jswain
Joe
The arc will burn through anything below it up the it's max. Depth of cut, maybe less if you have a water table. That's why they are mostly made with replaceable slats
I mostly cut off the end of my welding table. Doesn't hurt the cement below it. Ideally a cutting table would be better especially for odd shapes, someday I'll make a slip on or flip up section. I used to have a 3x1.5 ish slat table from princess auto but it was too small for welding and too big to keep both when I got my 4x4
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
I have never, nor will ever use my plasma in my shop. Welding sure, but plasma and torches send out a different level of fire babies than I am comfortable with spreading around my attached garage. Front driveway, or backyard. One of these day I will make a cutting table. I usually just improvise something from junk laying around. Typing this out just gave me an idea to use an old BBQ frame I saved from the scrap yard because I thought it might be handy for something.
I use my OA for cutting and heating out on the dirt in front of the shop. Never inside. I sort of like @CWret's idea of a water tub under a plasma cutter (assuming that's what it is). It's a lot dryer in my shop than outside. And better temperature control too.
I don't think a garage works for me either. Too many flammables too close by.
My shop is a bit different. Cement floor, steel walls, lots of open space where my tractors are normally parked. I guess it requires a more rigorous assessment. Local machine shop has a big plasma table in the middle of their shop. First I have to see what I am really dealing with on this unit, Might end up on your page.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
My shop is a 50 yr old wood structure and I NEVER weld ,torch or angle grind inside, everything that an be moved outside goes there...if it cant be moved it doesnt get done.
I guess there is one exception, my bench grinders are all mounted inside a small metal construction paint booth enclosure that captures all grinding sparks there.
And yes, I have used a plasma cutter once here, a borrowed Hypertherm 45, and they do throw atrocious sparks compared to Acet or grinders.
I guess there is one exception, my bench grinders are all mounted inside a small metal construction paint booth enclosure that captures all grinding sparks there.
And yes, I have used a plasma cutter once here, a borrowed Hypertherm 45, and they do throw atrocious sparks compared to Acet or grinders.
I don't see the sparks from plasma to be nearly as bad as the gobs of molten metal from OA. I have cut with the little plasma in lots of spots, mostly outside due to the fact my garage is a mess till I can get all my shelving up. When I used the plasma at work cutting steel on 4x4 blocks worked fine. I try to make sure the wood is not under the cut. Usually cutting on either saw horses or from my welding table. May be different if your garage has your lathe or mill in it. My welding table is just outside the man door to my garage.
Those posting the pictures of the hose that comes in the kit for the plasma cutter. Only thing I can think of why it is there is for the idea of replacement or connection. Like when you buy a drill or grinder from some of these sellers and they include a tube of grease and a set of brushes.
Those posting the pictures of the hose that comes in the kit for the plasma cutter. Only thing I can think of why it is there is for the idea of replacement or connection. Like when you buy a drill or grinder from some of these sellers and they include a tube of grease and a set of brushes.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
I can remember not knowing how much air pressure to feed the thing so that may have a bearing on how much they throw sparks as well...I still have the machine here and made a full length leather bib to protect my legs & feet when I need to use it again.
Actually the owner of the machine gave it to me to bring to the farm after he tried it in his city garage-shop...."not using that damn thing here again too many sparks".
I have only used it one to cut a slice of high carbon 3/4" scraper blade & it did that like cheese.
Actually the owner of the machine gave it to me to bring to the farm after he tried it in his city garage-shop...."not using that damn thing here again too many sparks".
I have only used it one to cut a slice of high carbon 3/4" scraper blade & it did that like cheese.
I’ve thought about buying a rectangular tub to cut on
Like this:
Jswain
Joe
What I will probably do is a slide out/or flip up on my 4x4 table that can be used as an outrigger when welding as well.
I'm running out of places to conveniently store things so they won't get in the way of other things, and I hate moving one thing to use another.
Straight cuts are a non issue, but when you have to cut a large irregular shape something dedicated is super handy.
Check out “The Metalist” on YouTube for his build of an excellent expanding welding/fabrication table.
Jswain
Joe
Everything he makes is awesome!
I also want to build a 40" sheet metal brake on one side similar to his, like I did on the welding table at my last job.
Figure once I build that and a press brake for the 20t I can probably get rid of the 40" 3in1 and have some space for........something else
The problem with your tub for me is that I'd have to build a, stand for it. With my welding skills, it won't happen. I have room for a 50 gal drum. I'm thinking one would make a naturally good working height. I could maybe make a cover for it with an oven grate so it would trap flash easily. Perhaps I could even put water in it outside in Summer. Don't want water (= humidity) inside though. But presumably even a dry barrel would trap molten metal.
This is my plasma cutting setup. You guys like pictures well here’s a ton.
Here it is being rolled out from under my vise and hydraulic press bench. The plywood helps keep crap out of the tank.
This is a view of the back. The 4 swivel wheels are small to reduce the overall height. Once rolled out it is quick to level it using an impact. (Note the back storage shelf.)
The hose makes tank draining fast. I don’t put it away or roll it around with liquid.
Here it is setup with the side shelf extensions in place.
Here are some cutting guide accessories.
and some templates (great addition and I highly recommend these, from 911 Motorsport)
If (when) you nick one they are easy enough to repair.
Here is a closer look at the setup ready to cut.
Note:
- perimeter holes for the clamps
- the rust was removed on the plate to get a better ground
- the torch holder is on a magnet and simple to put in a convient location
- the strip magnet that is parallel to the cut line acts as a torch guide
The center section is removable
which makes it easy to get the drop (severed piece out of the tank)
IMO #1 - Using a water table will substantially reduce dust, fumes, and sparks when plasma cutting. (to the extent that I feel safe cutting inside my small shop - lots of cautions though, move cutting table out into a clear area, 15 minute fire watch when done cutting, fire extinguisher put close at hand, any flammable items moved to a safe location, fume extractor fan close overhead and on high.)
IMO #2 - Using the correct additive in the plasma table water will substantially reduce dust, fumes, and sparks over that of just using water.
IMO #3 - Using a home brew or the wrong additive in a plasma table water can make fumes worse and more dangerous than using plain water.
IMO #4 - There are several good plasma cutting additives available. I believe the best choice is Sterling Cool. I dilute it as recommended at 20:1 and I keep the liquid about 1.5” deep in the bottom of the tank.
((( Unfortunately I misplaced my contact info for the nice guy that sold me my supply of Sterling Cool a few years ago. He was also a distributor for CK equipment (TIG torches and CK welding accessories). He is from the Waterloo area I believe. If anyone knows him please share his contact info. Thanks. )))
PS:
It’s rather obscene
for orange and green
to be seen
in the same scene.
Here it is being rolled out from under my vise and hydraulic press bench. The plywood helps keep crap out of the tank.
This is a view of the back. The 4 swivel wheels are small to reduce the overall height. Once rolled out it is quick to level it using an impact. (Note the back storage shelf.)
The hose makes tank draining fast. I don’t put it away or roll it around with liquid.
Here it is setup with the side shelf extensions in place.
Here are some cutting guide accessories.
and some templates (great addition and I highly recommend these, from 911 Motorsport)
If (when) you nick one they are easy enough to repair.
Here is a closer look at the setup ready to cut.
Note:
- perimeter holes for the clamps
- the rust was removed on the plate to get a better ground
- the torch holder is on a magnet and simple to put in a convient location
- the strip magnet that is parallel to the cut line acts as a torch guide
The center section is removable
which makes it easy to get the drop (severed piece out of the tank)
IMO #1 - Using a water table will substantially reduce dust, fumes, and sparks when plasma cutting. (to the extent that I feel safe cutting inside my small shop - lots of cautions though, move cutting table out into a clear area, 15 minute fire watch when done cutting, fire extinguisher put close at hand, any flammable items moved to a safe location, fume extractor fan close overhead and on high.)
IMO #2 - Using the correct additive in the plasma table water will substantially reduce dust, fumes, and sparks over that of just using water.
IMO #3 - Using a home brew or the wrong additive in a plasma table water can make fumes worse and more dangerous than using plain water.
IMO #4 - There are several good plasma cutting additives available. I believe the best choice is Sterling Cool. I dilute it as recommended at 20:1 and I keep the liquid about 1.5” deep in the bottom of the tank.
((( Unfortunately I misplaced my contact info for the nice guy that sold me my supply of Sterling Cool a few years ago. He was also a distributor for CK equipment (TIG torches and CK welding accessories). He is from the Waterloo area I believe. If anyone knows him please share his contact info. Thanks. )))
PS:
It’s rather obscene
for orange and green
to be seen
in the same scene.
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Jswain
Joe
FYI if you want a short use template, and you have a 3dprinter they work great.
If it's thin enough metal that you can work fairly fast they will last a long time in PETG....
Super easy to make ~3/16" thick, and ~3/8" oversized(if cutting ID of template) or ~3/8" undersized (if cutting OD of template) - if you are using ag60 torch with no guide/rollers.
Could make tubing notchers/guides to cope, whatever you can dream of.
If it's thin enough metal that you can work fairly fast they will last a long time in PETG....
Super easy to make ~3/16" thick, and ~3/8" oversized(if cutting ID of template) or ~3/8" undersized (if cutting OD of template) - if you are using ag60 torch with no guide/rollers.
Could make tubing notchers/guides to cope, whatever you can dream of.
W
Nice setup. Is the cutting table from 911 Motorsport?