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Plasma cutter for under $300!!

**makes mental note to pull the covers off the WarFox cutter next time in the shop**

The other thing I'd suggest to do once these units are unboxed...is take whatever the manufacturer is trying to pass of as "pnuematic connections" and toss em in the scrap bin.
They are without doubt...utter garbage...NPT must mean Not Possible Ted in Asia...
The threads were about 1/2 of the required depth, and definitely not tapered...
The air regulator, on the otherhand, that came with my WarFox50 from Amazon...is a great part...it got installed...
It's a great machine for me overall. Cuts steel and aluminum, maybe other materials but I haven't tried.
AND I like the fact it can run on both 110 and 220.
So it sits next to my Pro Point 3 in 1 welder on the cart.
 
Susquatch said:
Was it a "stupid" purchase
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I wouldn’t say that.
Just check it over from one end to the other. You may have to change or fix this or that. Check as many connections as you can that are easy to get at (air and electrical). That’s a small price to pay if no red flags pop up and it turns out to work ok. You definitely won’t find one of them in a JD show room (and there was a little known federal law passed that it could not be painter Orange). Finding consumables may be another issue but hopefully they copied standard stuff. KeeponDragon is happy with his WarFox50 (guessing that is an off-shore bargain unit).

Susquatch said:
Your hypotherm cost you 3 grand
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I think I got a good discount and paid $2900 several years ago (from Airliquide). They list at 3800 but can be found on sale now at 3495. Highly rated but also highly priced. I paid dearly for my Miller AC/DC too (also new from Airliquide). I smile when using either and I’m happy with both those machines. We all make choices, for some things I’m cheap and as tight as bark on a tree. Other times I want the best or close to it. Above I mentioned my welding hood. It list at $900. It’s a Panoramaxx CLT and is the third Optrel I’ve owned. But I buy plenty of tools from CanTire and Princess Auto - go figure?
 
It’s that 1 inch cut your paying for the option of cutting that thick, I’ve cut 1” once so far just as a test when I bought it in the early 90’s.
 
Susquatch said:
Your hypotherm cost you 3 grand? Holy Shit! I guess I'm not sure how a $300 unit could even begin to compare! Now you have me worried! It was cheap but maybe it's also just cheap junk!

I did note all your warnings about the connections. Are they enough? Should I have someone supervise me?

Was it a "stupid" purchase?

Anything in particular to look at when it arrives?
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LoL ya, hypertherm, miller, and the like are insanely expensive. My multimatic 215 (still jealous of @CWret and his 220) was $1500 back in the day, it's close to $3k new now, would be out of my reasonable budget.

This plasma cutter is a toy for me, screw around with it, I can afford to lose a couple hundred bucks....especially if a video or two on youtube helps pay for a big portion of that. If plasma cutting becomes a very big part of my fabrication processes, I'll probably end up with a hypertherm too at some point.


As for the unplugging...the only breakers that stay on in my shop when I'm not in there are the lights and regular 15a wall plugs (with nothing plugged in), everything else like the compressor, welder, lathe, mill, lift, heater, etc. get shutoff or unplugged. Even something name brand can end up with a damaged wire that isn't noticed from say a piece of slag falling on it, not worth the risk.
 
Well, it's here.

Now I'm afraid to touch it......

Everything seems well secured. Everything but the air Inlet that is. There is this hoaky little plastic bottle with a wiggly needle at the bottom. It looks like it will leak more air than could make it to the nozzle.

Came with a 50Amp 220V plug.

The unit is maybe 5 pounds at best. It's downright "cute". I won't rush to try it. My middle son and his family are coming for supper tonight. So maybe tomorrow.

Anything anyone is curious about?
 
Mine just showed up now too...won't open the box until I'm ready to film though, potentially this weekend, but we'll see...I also plan on putting in a fly bar for some stage lights in the garage lol found a deal on used but fully working source 4 par's for $15/each :D (they would have been $500ish fixtures when new).

1734127823747.png
 
Came with two extra nozzles, two screw in things that look like tiny cylinders. Don't know what these small cylinders are and don't see them in the parts list.

Edit - they are "electrodes" that go inside the nozzle.

Also a roll of plumbers tape, some small 3/8 hose clamps, and a length of braided 3/8 hose that don't seem to have a purpose either.
 
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The wiggly thing at the bottom of the air filter would be a spring loaded auto drain likely. When the pressure is released it will open and drain.

Might feel cheap but makes it pretty maintenance free.
 
Any idea what the braided hose is all about?

Based on the size of the air orifices alone, it doesn't look like this thing could ever use the amount of air that some folks have suggested.

Question, is the air always on or does it come on when the trigger is pressed. If it's always on, that's gunna be a problem. I guess I'll have to install an air switch.
 
Susquatch said:
Any idea what the braided hose is all about?

Based on the size of the air orifices alone, it doesn't look like this thing could ever use the amount of air that some folks have suggested.

Question, is the air always on or does it come on when the trigger is pressed. If it's always on, that's gunna be a problem. I guess I'll have to install an air switch.
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Comes on when you press the switch and will flow for a few seconds after the cut to cool the consumables.

The braided hose probably slips over the bottom nipple as a drain extension maybe?

I had one in mine as well and never used it. Upgraded the power cord to a 20ish' length of 12awg. And upgraded the ground cable & clamp to around 15' only cuz I had it laying around.

A leather/denim torch cover would be wise, or be careful the factory one will probably melt easy.
 
Jswain said:
A leather/denim torch cover would be wise, or be careful the factory one will probably melt easy.
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IMO - not needed for casual user or DYIer. Just need to be a bit careful with setup and plan ahead. Don’t be in a rush. Mine has no cover and that is not at all on my need or want list. Not the same for: a big project; a busy shop; or multiple users.
I do all my cutting on top of a 2’ diameter home built plasma water table (fabricated from an oil drum). The torch cable is not exposed to danger.
 
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Susquatch said:
Picture?
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I posted a pic of my hydraulic press and the plasma water table quite awhile ago. Here’s a pic and description - see post # 68


CWret

Post in thread 'What air compressor CFM and reservoir size needed to run a 50 amp plasma cutter'

I have a Hypertherm 45XP (45 amp machine). It self-regulates the pressure & volume it needs. This is my first plasma cutter & I'm new at it so my experience is inexperience.
My compressor is a 15 gal, 1.5 Hp, 135psi, 4.0cfm @ 90. Using this compressor (cutting 5/8" steel) the plasma cutter shuts down in 25 to 30 seconds due to lack of air. To improve the compressor reservoir's effective capacity I adjusted the (do not adjust factory setting!!) max pressure to 142 psi (that is what safety factors are for). The big benefit here is that this adjustment also raises the cut in pressure so that...

Ooops sorry- the above was not it and I can’t find that post
 
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CWret said:
IMO - not needed for casual user or DYIer. Just need to be a bit careful with setup and plan ahead. Don’t be in a rush. Mine has no cover and that is not at all on my need or want list. Not the same for: a big project; a busy shop; or multiple users.
I do all my cutting on top of a 2’ diameter home built plasma water table (fabricated from an oil drum). The torch cable is not exposed to danger.
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On your hypertherm?
 
Totally not needed for what i do. The Hypertherm std torch and cable/leads are plenty robust for my purposes. It still looks almost new. Why add extra weight?
 
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