Degen's New Project

[Former Member]

Ok, going to match you @thestelster.

 

[Former Member]

Heres and update, now you can likely guess (its also had a few more operation)

 

[jcdammeyer]

No clue but really should get flood and spray coolant operational on mine.

 

[Susquatch]

For those wondering, I moved Degen's project to a new thread here per his request.

 

[Former Member]

No clue but really should get flood and spray coolant operational on mine.

I use a simple 12vdc sump pump (about $25.00 from PA). I use Ionic coolant which makes clean up a lot easier. If you plan on doing this be prepared, even with all my splash control in place flood cooling makes a mess in the shop as it does get out.

What I like is that the tooling stays cool and sharp even when pushed.

 

[PaulL]

even with all my splash control in place flood cooling makes a mess in the shop as it does get out.

This is the fundamental question I wonder about before trying out the coolant pump in my mill (First BP clone). How bad is it? Are we talking thin film in a 3' radius of the machine? Slippery? Is it easy to clean up? Do I invest in more shields/covers?

 

[DavidR8]

Do they sell adult sized Muddy Buddies?

 

[Former Member]

This is the fundamental question I wonder about before trying out the coolant pump in my mill (First BP clone). How bad is it? Are we talking thin film in a 3' radius of the machine? Slippery? Is it easy to clean up? Do I invest in more shields/covers?

I use Microchip from KBC, basically it helps the water cool.

Floor slipper No, Potentional splash radius depends on how fast and big your bits are. I'm running a 1/2 4 Flute Carbide end mill at about 3500rpm (should be 3000rpm but something to address later) Running at full bit cuts 0.050" deep at 20ipm.

When I did this without splash guards 4-6ft.

 

[jcdammeyer]

I use a simple 12vdc sump pump (about $25.00 from PA). I use Ionic coolant which makes clean up a lot easier. If you plan on doing this be prepared, even with all my splash control in place flood cooling makes a mess in the shop as it does get out.

What I like is that the tooling stays cool and sharp even when pushed.

My mill came with the pump, sump and plumbing. Just never used it since use is so rare and the often threads about stinky coolant are worrisome. So I've built a spray coolant system but the power draw bar project got in the way. But seeing that photo of the milling of the unknown project has me thinking about it again.

 

[DavidR8]

I wonder if coolant mix in a spray bottle would be effective.

 

[Former Member]

I wonder if coolant mix in a spray bottle would be effective.

I tired that but found on a manual mill no unless its a short project and rarely and on CNC definitely not, my machine today ran about 5-6 hours and I only spent about 45min (max) in front of changing parts and pressing start.

Can you imagine the pain in your finger after 5-6 hours of pumping.

 

[Susquatch]

Can you imagine the pain in your finger after 5-6 hours of pumping.

I think that's the crux of it. NOTHING I do would ever take anywhere near that long. I'd go enclosed CNC if it did.

All my stuff is small one-offs that take much less than an hour. I'm ok applying a little cutting fluid as needed by hand. Same goes for my lathe and drill press.

 

[Former Member]

I think that's the crux of it. NOTHING I do would ever take anywhere near that long. I'd go enclosed CNC if it did.

All my stuff is small one-offs that take much less than an hour. I'm ok applying a little cutting fluid as needed by hand. Same goes for my lathe and drill press.

The longest part takes about 1.5hrs the shortest 2mins, just lots of them. Enclosed CNC with chip removal in my dreams, currently let this make money for me.

 

[Susquatch]

The longest part takes about 1.5hrs the shortest 2mins, just lots of them. Enclosed CNC with chip removal in my dreams, currently let this make money for me.

Ya, I guess I should have said hours operating instead of part duration.

Bottom line is you mill for hours, I mill for minutes. A spray bottle or a brush or a dropper is all I need.

 

[Former Member]

I have to say I added flood cooling well before CNC as the finish greatly improves, not to mention extended bit life (even with HSS at that time) even for short small runs as it allowed me to use 2 hands (axises) to do custom stuff.

While cutting oils are great, they create smoke and have other nasty issues to consider with use. Flood cooling with Ionic coolents have none of these issues, just remember these are about cooling and flushing, not lubrication like oils do. Each have advantages and disadvantages.

 

[jcdammeyer]

In the past with power feed each pass and a spray of say WD40 for aluminum castings. But now that I have CNC I do more complicated paths and depth of cut, to keep things cool and not gum up, is not deep. But with CNC that's easy. But really does need automatic cooling: spray or flood.

This is what I bought for the spray system you see out of focus in the back. It's the air supply regulator etc for the mister and also the regulator/oiler for the draw bar assembly.

 

[Former Member]

In the past with power feed each pass and a spray of say WD40 for aluminum castings. But now that I have CNC I do more complicated paths and depth of cut, to keep things cool and not gum up, is not deep. But with CNC that's easy. But really does need automatic cooling: spray or flood.

This is what I bought for the spray system you see out of focus in the back. It's the air supply regulator etc for the mister and also the regulator/oiler for the draw bar assembly.

I'd be interested in what you are doing for your draw bar, plans??

I am just adding a serious air drier for my air system, cooler after tank, pre-filter/water seperator, desiccant high volume drier, post ultra fine filter/water seperator, ultra dry air fingers crossed.

I also use the same mist system, works good, but flood cooling way better but the key word is flood.

 

[PaulL]

what you are doing for your draw bar, plans?

Aye - I'm short - 5'7". My drawbar is tall. I don't think I've ever seen it. I reach up there blind and swear a lot. Been thinking of adding a remote control for it. Some sort of air thing to torque it and a solenoid to give it a tap, so I can keep my copper hammer below my head height.

 

[Former Member]

I use a https://image.sportsmansguide.com/adimgs/l/1/167135_ts.jpg works great but every now and the the drawbar needs a tap.

I have seen plans to make this into the unit.

 

[jcdammeyer]

I'd be interested in what you are doing for your draw bar, plans??

I also use the same mist system, works good, but flood cooling way better but the key word is flood.

I bought the plans for a butterfly wrench manual system where the air valve is moved down to a place where it's reachable. An air cylinder pushes the wrench onto the draw bar. I think I posted some photos in another thread. I'll see if I can find it.

Here's the issue. Most of my tooling is Tormach Tooling; TT type but I have a number of other R8 tools. If you aren't familiar with the TT type it's a 3/4" R8 collet with the top ground flat. The TT holders are pulled up against the spindle as the R8 is pulled up. To release it takes 1/2 to maybe 1 turn of the draw bar to allow the tool to be pulled out.

R8 tooling can take 10 turns. If you turn the drawbar on the R8 TT collet 10 turns then out comes the TT holder and the R8 collet which defeats the whole point of the TT type.

What I've found is that I cannot control the Butterfly impact wrench well enough to make it turn 1/2 or 3/4 turn and then stop. This includes hall sensors and counting revs.

Here we go:

Micro-controller controlled Pneumatic Power Draw Bar

This is a more appropriate place to continue the thread that started out asking about coil springs. https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/coil-springs.3876/page-2#post-51519 Finally got around to casting the patterns today. Also since it appears that my AliExpress ordered pneumatic...

canadianhobbymetalworkers.com