METAL LATHE SMOKE, RPM LOSS, NEW LATHE MOTOR?

[MooseMeat]

video link of the Grizz version.

 

[DavidR8]

The closest reference is the Grizzly G103, looks identical. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something when using the power feed, I disengaged the threading gears and ran a test and no feed when I first got her home so logic would say the threading gears need to be engaged.

I am trying to weed out a coincidence, smoked the motor at top speed because it was ready to fail or did I put too much strain into the motor with a slow feed rate and high speed, I am leaning towards a tired motor.

I have the Busy Bee version of that machine.
The smaller lever under the power buttons controls the power to either the lead screw or the power feed drive.
Lever to the left = power feed drive engaged
Lever to the right = lead screw engaged
Middle = neither power feed or lead screw are engaged.

When using the power feed, the half nuts must not be engaged.

 

[MooseMeat]

I have the Busy Bee version of that machine.
The smaller lever under the power buttons controls the power to either the lead screw or the power feed drive.
Lever to the left = power feed drive engaged
Lever to the right = lead screw engaged
Middle = neither power feed or lead screw are engaged.

When using the power feed, the half nuts must not be engaged.

Correct, I am not using the lead screw for making cuts, however I did engage the threading gears to slow the travel speed down on the saddle, the power feed reacts to the threading gear box, just need to make sure this is the correct way to do this, I don't see any other way to have a faster spindle speed and slow cut rates.

cheers..

 

[DavidR8]

Correct, I am not using the lead screw for making cuts, however I did engage the threading gears to slow the travel speed down on the saddle, the power feed reacts to the threading gear box, just need to make sure this is the correct way to do this, I don't see any other way to have a faster spindle speed and slow cut rates.

cheers..

By threading gears I assume you mean the quick change gear box. And yes that is how you control the feed rate or the thread pitch independently of the spindle speed.

 

[MooseMeat]

By threading gears I assume you mean the quick change gear box. And yes that is how you control the feed rate or the thread pitch independently of the spindle speed.

yes correct,
So my hunch is the motor was well on the way out then, well past due. So when I bought the lathe from an experienced machinist it came with a few spare parts, one being a broken back gear assembly, spare new spindle and some other parts. All these clues tell me maybe even he got a few things wrong in the operation of this lathe and had to replace a few things due to incorrect operation.

My biggest concern is that I was putting too much strain on the motor and the gears were the cause of the motor cooking off; the problem arose when I woke up in the middle of the night and thought "what about this."

😉

 

[DavidR8]

yes correct,
So my hunch is the motor was well on the way out then, well past due. So when I bought the lathe from an experienced machinist it came with a few spare parts, one being a broken back gear assembly, spare new spindle and some other parts. All these clues tell me maybe even he got a few things wrong in the operation of this lathe and had to replace a few things due to incorrect operation.

My biggest concern is that I was putting too much strain on the motor and the gears were the cause of the motor cooking off; the problem arose when I woke up in the middle of the night and thought "what about this."

😉

It's a safe bet that he had those parts because of some less than well informed use. 🙂

 

[MooseMeat]

It's a safe bet that he had those parts because of some less than well informed use. 🙂

I'm thinking so, something I'm trying to avoid........😉

 

[MooseMeat]

So the new motor arrived today, broken fan shroud, wet with water in the box and a wiring mess, no wiring block or buss/jumper bars just loose wires, completely not impressed at the quality, I have included pictures for you all to look at. Another concern is the gauge of the wires, a picture tells a thousand words.

Any thoughts on this??

NOT IMPRESSED to say the least, I just spent close to 1K on the vfd and the motor, then I find out the motor is vfd rated but doesn't have the proper shaft grounding to stop the bearings from degrading and arching and pitting the shaft/bearing races.

 

[DavidR8]

Call then and they will make it right

 

[slow-poke]

The fan is a problem. The wiring looks okay to me, just a different style of box. I would prefer the style you have because it's less bulky. Some VFD rated motors use isolated bearings, so don't require a shaft ground strap.

Might be worth checking local motor rebuilding places that's where I just found my NOS 3HP Baldor.

I have have several 3PH motors all NOS or used, first one was from a commercial dryer, < $100 on eBay.

Then I picked up a 1.5HP NOS one from Lenmark for $100, and now this Baldor for $200.

Both were never used. I also buy used Brand name VFDs for $100. Everything working perfectly. YMMV

 

[Susquatch]

NOT IMPRESSED to say the least, I just spent close to 1K on the vfd and the motor, then I find out the motor is vfd rated but doesn't have the proper shaft grounding to stop the bearings from degrading and arching and pitting the shaft/bearing races.

Most likely shipping damage. No matter, E-Motors is a first rate outfit. Call them. They will make it right.

The bearings are probably insulated, are not subject to arcing, and don't need a ground strap. The frame is the ground. My Nidec motor was like that. I love it.

The wiring was loose on my Nidec too. They didn't prewire it for a given voltage. My biggest bitch was figuring out what wire was what. After a lot of studying, I realized that they were numbered but the numbers were badly stretch so they looked like bar code instead of numbers. After that, it was easy. But my eyes are not getting better with age so I applied number bands anyway. If I were to do it over, I'd use my labeller to make shrink fit labels. But I didn't have a labeller back then. I used these instead.

Amazon.ca

 

[MooseMeat]

Call then and they will make it right

I sent them an email yesterday, yes they have been really good to speak to and Ashish was awesome to email technical talk. Purolater was the shipper, the motor was delayed because of vehicle issues, did they drive into a lake hence the water on the motor but it was a box in a box?

If I don't hear from them this morning I'll call.

 

[MooseMeat]

Most likely shipping damage. No matter, E-Motors is a first rate outfit. Call them. They will make it right.

The bearings are probably insulated, are not subject to arcing, and don't need a ground strap. The frame is the ground. My Nidec motor was like that. I love it.

The wiring was loose on my Nidec too. They didn't prewire it for a given voltage. My biggest bitch was figuring out what wire was what. After a lot of studying, I realized that they were numbered but the numbers were badly stretch so they looked like bar code instead of numbers. After that, it was easy. But my eyes are not getting better with age so I applied number bands anyway. If I were to do it over, I'd use my labeller to make shrink fit labels. But I didn't have a labeller back then. I used these instead.

Amazon.ca

I completely expected better quality in the in the wiring box, for a few dollars in parts and then seeing it on the box diagram it really ticked me off, after the damaged motor and finding water pooling on the motor it was like throwing more sand in my "gonch."

 

[BaitMaster]

Super common for motors to not have terminal blocks in the peckerhead. More common than not. Properly use some marrettes and you won’t have any problems with that aspect.

Some inverter rated motors do not come with the grounding straps. It’s the engineers who decide if they are necessary on a particular motor. I wouldn’t worry about that.

The water in the motor and the dented fan shroud are legitimate problems.

I would be pissed if a motor came soaked and dented.

Brook-Compton, if that’s what you have there, are lower end motors, made to a price point. I’m sure you noticed all the higher priced motors in the same category…. There is a reason for that.

Techtop is probably the best “value” for money, in my opinion. Likely would have cost a hundred or two more.

A high end GE motor or a Toshiba likely would have been a thousand bucks just for the motor…. So there’s that.

Everything is a compromise.

 

[DavidR8]

That's the same motor I bought for my yet-to-be-built 2x42 grinder. It also arrived with the fan guard all bent. There was no damage to the fan so I kept the motor. E-Motors Direct refunded me 50% of the cost so I was happy.

 

[MooseMeat]

That's the same motor I bought for my yet-to-be-built 2x42 grinder. It also arrived with the fan guard all bent. There was no damage to the fan so I kept the motor. E-Motors Direct refunded me 50% of the cost so I was happy.

well I wasn't even offered that option, it now sits in a box waiting for Purolater on the porch......hmmmmm

for 50% off I'd bang it out with a hammer and not look at it again, it's gonna cost them to pay shipping and re ship the new one, kinda surprised it wasn't an option.

 

[DavidR8]

well I wasn't even offered that option, it now sits in a box waiting for Purolater on the porch......hmmmmm

for 50% off I'd bang it out with a hammer and not look at it again, it's gonna cost them to pay shipping and re ship the new one, kinda surprised it wasn't an option.

I'm surprised they didn't offer that as well. Assuming the fan is fine, I'd call them back and tell them to refund a big chunk of the cost and all is forgiven.

 

[MooseMeat]

I'm surprised they didn't offer that as well. Assuming the fan is fine, I'd call them back and tell them to refund a big chunk of the cost and all is forgiven.

just called them and they will call me back

 

[Susquatch]

for 50% off I'd bang it out with a hammer and not look at it again, it's gonna cost them to pay shipping and re ship the new one, kinda surprised it wasn't an option.

When outfits like that don't offer, I do it for them. But I'll start low. "Tell you what, you refund me 75% and I'll fix it myself and you can take it off your books and save the shipping." If they come back with a lower discount, we negotiate till we are both happy - it's that or they eat it all!

It's SOP at Vevor!

 

[MooseMeat]

Almost there pending motor issues as mentioned above, a couple of pictures to start with. Now I could not find this in the manual about starting the vfd, this vfd will not power up without a motor connected correct?

-enclosure is a Vevor 12x12x6, breaker and fuse as well from amazon.

Did a major upgrade on the lathe, is it noticeable??.....😉