This is where I was heading. You figure the taper should be sufficient to keep it from spinning while turning the point?
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Looking for a Lathe Face Plate and a Lathe Dog Drive Plate
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
This is where I was heading. You figure the taper should be sufficient to keep it from spinning while turning the point?
Yes the taper should prevent spinning IF the accuracy between tapers is there. If the machined part angle is out by a little then you could be left with reduced contact approaching a line as opposed to full mating surfaces. If you have the angle bang on but micro undulations surface finish, then the arbor/socket contact points are confined to the tops of all the little mountain tops. There is a reason the commercial ones are ground. You can replicate these but it might take a bit more work. Doing the blueing & slight twist to see what rubs off & what stays is a good start. Unfortunately its the chicken & egg unless you can put the part back between centers to make adjustments.
Taper attachments are great (I wish I had one). The best way to set them up is traversing the carriage along a known taper with DTI & adjusting the taper bar that way, as opposed to reading off the scribed angle lines which might not be accurate enough.
If your arbor is spinning a lot, I wouldn't push it. Best to dry fit & remedy. Its probably mild steel & your socket is probably hardened but it still may be possible to spin some crap in there & score up your machine surface.
Taper attachments are great (I wish I had one). The best way to set them up is traversing the carriage along a known taper with DTI & adjusting the taper bar that way, as opposed to reading off the scribed angle lines which might not be accurate enough.
If your arbor is spinning a lot, I wouldn't push it. Best to dry fit & remedy. Its probably mild steel & your socket is probably hardened but it still may be possible to spin some crap in there & score up your machine surface.
Further to Peter’s and John’s comments, I presume you are making this center to then turn between centers; this one just sticking out less from the spindle nose, correct?
In this particular case there will be very little torque on the center itself (to try and spin it in the socket) as the tailstock will provide the axial loading and the drive dog will transmit the spindle torque directly onto the work piece. The center is literally just supporting the work weight, and cutting forces.
In this particular case there will be very little torque on the center itself (to try and spin it in the socket) as the tailstock will provide the axial loading and the drive dog will transmit the spindle torque directly onto the work piece. The center is literally just supporting the work weight, and cutting forces.
This is exactly what I'm attempting to do. Make a short nose (stubby) dead center. In use it should spin in unison with the spindle and work piece. What I'm questioning is will the taper hold sufficiently to turn the 60 deg point on it?
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Dabbler
ersatz engineer
You can save yourself a lot of trouble.
Take a rod of steel and chuck it into your 3 jaw chuck. That will hold just fine. Turn your 60 degree centre and use it in place. Every time you use it, you take another 5 or 6 thou off to get it centred again. it takes hardly any time - and it is a LOT more accurate than any centre held in the MT3 headstock.
Take a rod of steel and chuck it into your 3 jaw chuck. That will hold just fine. Turn your 60 degree centre and use it in place. Every time you use it, you take another 5 or 6 thou off to get it centred again. it takes hardly any time - and it is a LOT more accurate than any centre held in the MT3 headstock.
As Dabbler says, if you just need to establish a new arbor point in-situ, the easiest thing is exactly what he outlined. People do this because its dead simple & the results are guaranteed to be concentric with the spindle. Setting a compound angle is plenty accurate to match your 60-deg cone angle, no taper attachment business required. Also the chuck jaws now represent stops for the dog assembly. Even though the jaws aren't really intended for this, it does them no harm under normal loads. Another plus is you can have a longer or more compact stickout length or different point stock diameter & its easy to adapt with just a scrap of steel you can re-use for this purpose.
Now if you are wanting to make a taper shank arbor for the sake of having one, carry on. But aside from a slot for the dog leg to drive, a dog plate doesn't really serve any other unique purpose that I'm aware of. Maybe a bit more compact than a chuck but doesn't really affect what you can machine unless you are bed length constrained. I think older lathes used to have better dog accessories that would mix & match with one another but these days the accessories seem to be rarer. I'm not sure falling out of favor is accurate but not used as much.
Now if you are wanting to make a taper shank arbor for the sake of having one, carry on. But aside from a slot for the dog leg to drive, a dog plate doesn't really serve any other unique purpose that I'm aware of. Maybe a bit more compact than a chuck but doesn't really affect what you can machine unless you are bed length constrained. I think older lathes used to have better dog accessories that would mix & match with one another but these days the accessories seem to be rarer. I'm not sure falling out of favor is accurate but not used as much.
Done, Done and Done......
I decided to make three up since I was setup for it. Points were easy enough to turn insitu provided you progressed the tool towards the spindle and didn't let things get too hot (i.e. the point).
@Johnwa was correct about the spindle taper being shorter than standard MT3. I traced the machined surface of the spindle bore back only 2-1/2" thus the two shorter dead centers.
These are precisely the length needed for my drive plate.
Well..... maybe one ended up a bit on the short side
Still looking for a face plate BTB.
I decided to make three up since I was setup for it. Points were easy enough to turn insitu provided you progressed the tool towards the spindle and didn't let things get too hot (i.e. the point).
@Johnwa was correct about the spindle taper being shorter than standard MT3. I traced the machined surface of the spindle bore back only 2-1/2" thus the two shorter dead centers.
These are precisely the length needed for my drive plate.
Well..... maybe one ended up a bit on the short side
Still looking for a face plate BTB.
Done, Done and Done......
View attachment 11470
I decided to make three up since I was setup for it. Points were easy enough to turn insitu provided you progressed the tool towards the spindle and didn't let things get too hot (i.e. the point).
@Johnwa was correct about the spindle taper being shorter than standard MT3. I traced the machined surface of the spindle bore back only 2-1/2" thus the two shorter dead centers.
View attachment 11472
These are precisely the length needed for my drive plate.
Well..... maybe one ended up a bit on the short side
Still looking for a face plate BTB.
Do you want a faceplate that you can mount work on?
or one solely for driving a dog?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you want a faceplate that you can mount work on?
or one solely for driving a dog?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mount work on. Have a dog drive plate now.
Brent H
Ultra Member
Started my face plate today @YYCHobbyMachinist - I have a D-3 spindle verses your treaded spindle so I have an adapter plate to connect to the face plate - there will be some machining to reduce the weight of the adapter. The landing of the adaptor will be a nice “fit” into the back of the plate. The plate will have a recess to accept the landing.
The face plate is 7/8” thick and 9” diameter. The mission is to mill T slots for holding and perhaps a drive slot for lathe dogs if required. As mentioned earlier in Craig’s thread, the easy way to turn between centres is to renew one in the three jaw and ride the lathe dog on a jaw. I thought to mill the disk on the rotary table (12”) so I have a chain fall lift for this:
had things all set up and realized I do not have the other jaws for the chuck - I have the inside jaws bit not the outside jaws. Anyone have a set of 8” bison 3 jaw outside jaws??? - anyway - went on with set up - this is just messing about with the coaxial centring gauge - this thing is cool - LOL -
So since this pic I have moved the face plate onto 4 x 123 blocks and dogged it down. Also bored a 1/2” hole in the centre to start the process.
start new thread?
The face plate is 7/8” thick and 9” diameter. The mission is to mill T slots for holding and perhaps a drive slot for lathe dogs if required. As mentioned earlier in Craig’s thread, the easy way to turn between centres is to renew one in the three jaw and ride the lathe dog on a jaw. I thought to mill the disk on the rotary table (12”) so I have a chain fall lift for this:
had things all set up and realized I do not have the other jaws for the chuck - I have the inside jaws bit not the outside jaws. Anyone have a set of 8” bison 3 jaw outside jaws??? - anyway - went on with set up - this is just messing about with the coaxial centring gauge - this thing is cool - LOL -
So since this pic I have moved the face plate onto 4 x 123 blocks and dogged it down. Also bored a 1/2” hole in the centre to start the process.
start new thread?
And here I thought my RT was over kill LOL....
So you just stuffed a 1" X 9" piece of steel in your duffle bag and brought it home eh.... I wish.....
I'm starting to think making a FP is the better option otherwise it's going to be a $200 touch on eBay.
Start a new thread if you want. I don't mind it on here.
So you just stuffed a 1" X 9" piece of steel in your duffle bag and brought it home eh.... I wish.....
I'm starting to think making a FP is the better option otherwise it's going to be a $200 touch on eBay.
Start a new thread if you want. I don't mind it on here.
Brent H
Ultra Member
Craig, I actually stuffed 2 in - hahahahaha
we cut the 9” round off in about 18” long rounds and 24 “ rounds and they then get rings welded to either end. These are the counter weights for buoys in at 250 plus pounds and 300 ish pounds. They bring in long rounds of steel (24 feet) I nabbed a Couple slices headed to recycle
As the broom couldn’t push them on the floor. 
.
we cut the 9” round off in about 18” long rounds and 24 “ rounds and they then get rings welded to either end. These are the counter weights for buoys in at 250 plus pounds and 300 ish pounds. They bring in long rounds of steel (24 feet) I nabbed a Couple slices headed to recycle
As the broom couldn’t push them on the floor. .
Turning question for you all...
Is it common to experience a high pitch squeal while turning and have the work piece get quite hot?
To me this sounds like rubbing but I could not find any evidence of that occurring?
I'm half deaf as it is but last night the wife was at the shop door tapping one foot and insisting I put my EDs on.
Mild 1/2" steel, 900 RPM with an indexable carbide tool.....
Is it common to experience a high pitch squeal while turning and have the work piece get quite hot?
To me this sounds like rubbing but I could not find any evidence of that occurring?
I'm half deaf as it is but last night the wife was at the shop door tapping one foot and insisting I put my EDs on.
Mild 1/2" steel, 900 RPM with an indexable carbide tool.....
Johnwa
Ultra Member
I picked an adapter like this
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...-stronghold-oneway-scroll-chucks?item=66B1207
to fit a oneway woodchuck on my Southbend. It fits nicely on the 1-1/2x8 spindle. It might be adaptable to a DIY faceplate.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...-stronghold-oneway-scroll-chucks?item=66B1207
to fit a oneway woodchuck on my Southbend. It fits nicely on the 1-1/2x8 spindle. It might be adaptable to a DIY faceplate.
That's brilliant John. I have a person locally selling plate steel as weights. I can order a plate of whatever dimensions I want, and assuming the adapter is steel and not cast iron, TIG the adapter onto the plate and turn it flat and true.
(I have an email into Lee Valley asking about item composition)
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