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Little one day projects

Have you looked at Anodizing that plate ?
Aluminum does not rust like carbon steel, but, I have sent numerous machine parts for this process to make the finish durable and it protects against oxidation over time. Embrittlement in aluminum will surprise you with micro cracks especially when ‘road‘ vibrations are evident.

Check with a local metal plater in your area.
I think medium sized parts are anodized rather inexpensively if you can get them done with some other plates in process.
 
I have considered anodizing parts in the past but have not yet done so. I don't have time to do this now, but might get a few other pieces done along with it later. The one nice thing with anodizing is that it stops the black oxide rubbing off on whatever is secured onto it. I will probably do a little more work on this plate later on to add some more lashing slots and cutouts, so that needs to be finished before it's anodized.
 
Quick little job this afternoon. I have an oil can for the way oil on my lathe but the tip was too big to fit the ball oilers without always ending up with as much or more oil around the port as in it. The tip is epoxied onto the flex spout, so I could not just replace it but I did make a new brass tip that pressed onto the original. Just an easy push fit with a bit of Loctite to secure it. This new tip tapers down to a smaller point to fit in the ball opening better. Tested it out by giving everything a good shot of fresh oil.

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BMW Rider said:
Quick little job this afternoon. I have an oil can for the way oil on my lathe but the tip was too big to fit the ball oilers without always ending up with as much or more oil around the port as in it. The tip is epoxied onto the flex spout, so I could not just replace it but I did make a new brass tip that pressed onto the original. Just an easy push fit with a bit of Loctite to secure it. This new tip tapers down to a smaller point to fit in the ball opening better. Tested it out by giving everything a good shot of fresh oil.

View attachment 27780View attachment 27781
Click to expand...
I REALLY LIKE THIS!
 
I did much the same thing on my oiler. It worked fine for regular low pressure squirting but on my lathe the oilers need a bit more pressure & the JB adhesive eventually let go under hydraulic pressure. So I think the trick is to have a mechanical lock kind of like a thread & the adhesive just provides seal. Or maybe silver solder like I did on my offshore brass stemmed oiler,
 
The original tip is some sort of pot metal aluminum, so no good to to silver solder.

I used Loctite 648 which is a retaining compound, oil resistant and good for over 180C. I doubt it's going to come off easily. I had it for a generator rotor replacement job on a motorcycle some time ago. The original rotor and retainer bolt had to be heated to well over 100C and was still difficult to break loose. Probably way overkill to hold this little tip together, but I had it on hand.
 
Last while using my Sawstop table saw sliding attachment, I've had issues with the mitre fence not locking down properly. A while back the threads in the little sliding block that fits in a track in the table had pulled out. I repaired the threads with a Helicoil insert, but that too was failing since there are only about three full threads in the aluminium block for the stud bolt to hold into. In addition to that, there is minimal material where the bolt goes through and the clamping force over time had created a bend in the block so the mitre fence was near impossible to clamp firmly.

I decided to fix this before I need it next and after looking at options, decided making a complete new block was the best option. For that, steel seemed a better choice of material and I found a piece of 7/8 square keystock to work with. That got milled down the the correct dimensions and the correct profile milled in to fit the slot. The piece was longer than the original, but I saw no need to cut it shorter and left it longer. Drilled and tapped the hole for the bolt with a countersunk hole for the head. Originally, the bolt was secured with a lock washer, but in order to leave more material in the centre, I made the countersink shallower and secured the bolt with Loctite so it stays put when the knob is tightened to hold the fence at the set angle.

The fence now holds better than ever.

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Nice!

I just can’t say enough about how satisfying it is to be able to use metalworking tools to do little (key) fixes like this.

Well done!

D :cool:

P.S. That reminds me, I have a miter saw stored in a corner for when I learn enough about making helical spur gears to tackle the project. Someday, Project 42.775
 
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