BMW Rider
Super User
I'm not sure what sort of 3D printing would work for this. I used a piece of 6061 aluminum. Should not ever be a problem again.
-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
Little one day projects
- Thread starter BMW Rider
- Start date
thriller007
Well-Known Member
I love it. You don’t by chance have a set of plans or some dimensions do you? I would not mind making one of these
DPittman
Ultra Member
Yes I can't say I would ever be able to justify a rotary broach myself but I think they would be cool and handy for projects exactly like yours.
BMW Rider
Super User
No plans, which is often how I work just figuring it out in my head and adapting on the fly. There are several cottage industry makers producing these sorts of lifting devices, I just looked at pictures of a variety of them and came up with my design.
Here is a project I have been wanting to do for a while a longer handle for the lathe chuck.
I have been doing practice runs of parts of projects I am unsure of the method or not confident especially if I have special chunk of material for project in this case I felt milling the square would be my challenge.
This is my practice run I put it in my square collet holder vertically and got a nice cut at the base of the square but the square was out a bit nevertheless good for the drill for doing jaw changes.
Its all salvage material the handle was not machined by me just cut to size, the rest I turned and milled the square in my mill
On this one I put the piece in the square collet holder and in the vice horizontally and used the end to take off the material which gave me better control using the quill dro .062 was what had to come of each side and in the end the square is off by .010 so I am happy with that it fits great. I could have done a better job on milling the base of the square but c'est la vie. I drilled and tapped a 8/32 set screw for the handle and am pretty happy with the final result.
I have been doing practice runs of parts of projects I am unsure of the method or not confident especially if I have special chunk of material for project in this case I felt milling the square would be my challenge.
This is my practice run I put it in my square collet holder vertically and got a nice cut at the base of the square but the square was out a bit nevertheless good for the drill for doing jaw changes.
Its all salvage material the handle was not machined by me just cut to size, the rest I turned and milled the square in my mill
On this one I put the piece in the square collet holder and in the vice horizontally and used the end to take off the material which gave me better control using the quill dro .062 was what had to come of each side and in the end the square is off by .010 so I am happy with that it fits great. I could have done a better job on milling the base of the square but c'est la vie. I drilled and tapped a 8/32 set screw for the handle and am pretty happy with the final result.
Nice. I need to do something similar for chuck changes. My lathe did not come with one and although a 3/8" socket extension works fine, not as nice as what you have there. I have been hesitating mostly cause not too sure about cutting the flats but I think you may have inspired me!
Thanks
Cheers,
Flats are pretty easy to do, all's you need is a machinist square and simple trig tells you out how much to mill off. You can use a large nut as a guide for milling hex head things. I use on-line calculators to do the trig for me. If you do a lot of flats, hex, or oct a jig is pretty easy to make. https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/project-for-the-day.3956/#post-52121
Last edited:
Todays project was to upgrade the legs on the mill if you call bolts legs, the new ones are 1/2 inch fit great I lifted up the mill with my engine hoist just above the minimum needed blocked it up once everything was secure installed the new legs, no adjusting just on and secure and back down on the floor check level then brought the lift back up just to enough to allow easy coarse adjustment then back down on the floor for final adjustments and leveling. Once I got the mill home and in the basement I just wanted to use it so I have been learning and playing for the last few weeks and one thing I noticed was some noise and rattles so hoping to quiet things down a bit step one here.
Here is my new 5 inch vevor vise was able to tram it in and start cutting!!
Had to go between the joists but room to spare.
Here is my new 5 inch vevor vise was able to tram it in and start cutting!!
Had to go between the joists but room to spare.
This thread seems like a good place to post those quick projects that we all do, something to chat about.
After knocking my "Tuna can" of cutting oil off the bench (usually by snagging the flux brush which stuck out) for about the 5th time this week, and reasoning that at my age, I am not about to get less clumsy, I decided to make something more substantial. A chunk of rusty pipe, more rusty 1/8" sheet and some welding, lathe, and painting, I hope to have a more stable can to have around the lathe or mill. And the flux brush won't stick out so much. I suppose a taller soup can would have been better but not as "weighty". Good chance to practice some welding too. I put paint thinner in it to test it before applying paint and found one tiny hole so was able to grind and reweld that area. Hopefully, it is oil proof now.
Now if it gets knocked over, I will just have more oil to clean up!
After knocking my "Tuna can" of cutting oil off the bench (usually by snagging the flux brush which stuck out) for about the 5th time this week, and reasoning that at my age, I am not about to get less clumsy, I decided to make something more substantial. A chunk of rusty pipe, more rusty 1/8" sheet and some welding, lathe, and painting, I hope to have a more stable can to have around the lathe or mill. And the flux brush won't stick out so much. I suppose a taller soup can would have been better but not as "weighty". Good chance to practice some welding too. I put paint thinner in it to test it before applying paint and found one tiny hole so was able to grind and reweld that area. Hopefully, it is oil proof now.
Now if it gets knocked over, I will just have more oil to clean up!
Attachments
DPittman
Ultra Member
Ya I believe Mr Pete/Tubalcain has a video of making a non spillable tuna oil can. Your fix works tho, that should be very stable and not likely to spill.
Damn, that is a good solution. I did it for the way oil can but never thought of it for this. But I have already painted it to match the lathe.....
First time I knock it over, I will do that. That will be revision 1. I am going to test run this version first.
Thanks
Last edited:
We must be on the same path I've tipped mine over too many times lately, the last time I didn't even take one dip out.This thread seems like a good place to post those quick projects that we all do, something to chat about.
After knocking my "Tuna can" of cutting oil off the bench (usually by snagging the flux brush which stuck out) for about the 5th time this week, and reasoning that at my age, I am not about to get less clumsy, I decided to make something more substantial. A chunk of rusty pipe, more rusty 1/8" sheet and some welding, lathe, and painting, I hope to have a more stable can to have around the lathe or mill. And the flux brush won't stick out so much. I suppose a taller soup can would have been better but not as "weighty". Good chance to practice some welding too. I put paint thinner in it to test it before applying paint and found one tiny hole so was able to grind and reweld that area. Hopefully, it is oil proof now.
Now if it gets knocked over, I will just have more oil to clean up!
This is a small one I put together this morning, the tube is an old battery sleeve from a flashlight its a good size some hot glue and we are ready. I like your metal idea though I might do something similar but maybe with square tubing maybe easier to sit flush against something or attach with a magnet. I had to laugh at the video that he notched out the bottom of the tube, its oil no matter how tight you make it to the bottom its gonna leak through faster than you can brush it on.
Six O Two
(Marco)
I have a small workshop that I try to fit a lot of machines into. Which means I often end up bumping into various machine handles as I try to maneuver around the shop. I've actually started taking the handles off my cross-slide while the lathe is not in use owing to a few too many bruises. Anyways, yesterday, I bumped my table saw fence handle and cracked it (which itself was a quick and dirty bodge job to fix a phenolic one I busted a while ago).
So, I build a new one. Knurled up a section from an old bicycle seatpost and turned a few pressfit 6061 endcaps. Pretty happy with how the knurling and pressfit tolerance ended up.
So, I build a new one. Knurled up a section from an old bicycle seatpost and turned a few pressfit 6061 endcaps. Pretty happy with how the knurling and pressfit tolerance ended up.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Very nice knurling job.
Sometimes my knurling turns out and other times it's a wreck. I have to admit tho I've never taken into consideration the beginning od of the workpiece.
I'd be a bit nervous of a big knurling job like that as it's the last operation that could go wrong on a perfect and otherwise complete part.
Sometimes my knurling turns out and other times it's a wreck. I have to admit tho I've never taken into consideration the beginning od of the workpiece.
I'd be a bit nervous of a big knurling job like that as it's the last operation that could go wrong on a perfect and otherwise complete part.
BMW Rider
Super User
Getting ready for a motorcycle trip later this month down south and needed a luggage plate to secure a soft bag on the back. Not running the aluminum boxes for this trip, but still need them for future use. This plate just clamps to the existing rear rack. The plate is 3/16" aluminum. Managed to churn it out yesterday afternoon, but didn't do the cleaning up until today.
