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Keyless Chucks

StevSmar

(Steven)
Premium Member
I hate keyless chucks and got rid of almost all of mine.
I can appreciate how having a keyless chuck bind would make you prefer keyed chuck.

The thing I hate about my keyed chuck was that with a 1/2” drill bit I couldn’t stop it spinning, even after I bent the chuck key a little (I admit, the factory chuck is not a good example of keyed chucks).
 
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TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
A good whack settles LOTS of things......

Three Albrechts eh...... I'm jealous.

I assume 3 different sizes? Or are they different arbours?
Different sizes and arbours. Tom's are R8 and MT3. One is mine is MT2 arbour IIRC for my lathe.

I'd have had another one but I let my friend Brian grab it instead since he had none for his Bridgeport.

I'll keep you in mind next time I come across one that is attractively priced.
 

Arbutus

Super User
Premium Member
Actually a simple solution to reduce/prevent the binding problem is to grind three flats on the shanks of larger drills. Large Silver & Deming drills often have flats on the shanks.
 
I read a while back that that makes keyless chucks grip tighter and more accurately is the mechanics/materials of the chuck, which is why it works better for carbide bits and CNC. Part of their function is to self tighten. As a result when this happens they come equipped with a hole for a spanner to release them. One quick tap is all thats needed.
 

Tom Kitta

Ultra Member
I read a while back that that makes keyless chucks grip tighter and more accurately is the mechanics/materials of the chuck, which is why it works better for carbide bits and CNC. Part of their function is to self tighten. As a result when this happens they come equipped with a hole for a spanner to release them. One quick tap is all thats needed.

Sure, in theory. In real life if they over grip you will put an extension on that spanner and whack it with hammer 100 times and no go. Also most likely internals are done for as well. Chuck is now damaged.
 

Tom Kitta

Ultra Member
I can appreciate how having a keyless chuck bind would make you prefer keyed chuck.

The thing I hate about my keyed chuck was that with a 1/2” drill bit I couldn’t stop it spinning, even after I bent the chuck key a little (I admit, the factory chuck is not a good example of keyed chucks).

You may need better chuck. If the drill bit spins even after cranking it - something is wrong. All keyed chuck will do is tighten more, prevent spin but not solve the issue of why there is so much cutting force needed. In the worst case you eventually stall the machine - or worse - break drill bit in the hole scrapping the part.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
As a result when this happens they come equipped with a hole for a spanner to release them. One quick tap is all thats needed.

Mine have said spanner hole. It has always worked for me too. Although I've never needed it, that kind of spanner will readily take a few hammer whacks.

But I have to confess that the dog pack on here has me a bit worried.
 

DPittman

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Mine have said spanner hole. It has always worked for me too. Although I've never needed it, that kind of spanner will readily take a few hammer whacks.

But I have to confess that the dog pack on here has me a bit worried.
Well if keep doing what you're doing, step drilling to larger sizes and being careful not to over torque them, then you probably can relax a bit.
Just never use a hole saw of any size with a keyless chuck. From my experience (more than once) that is a sure fire recipe for seized keyless chuck.
 

YYCHM

(Craig)
Premium Member
Gee, I've been wanting to try a keyless chuck for some time now. Now I'm not sure.....
 

Tom Kitta

Ultra Member
Gee, I've been wanting to try a keyless chuck for some time now. Now I'm not sure.....

It works - the main issue is that the tightening "feature" can be a feature or a deal breaker. I.e. realize there is no clutch build in - once it starts gripping harder and harder something has to give - either drill breaks, chucks explodes, machine stalls or work piece spins or you continue drilling.
 
Well if keep doing what you're doing, step drilling to larger sizes and being careful not to over torque them, then you probably can relax a bit.
Just never use a hole saw of any size with a keyless chuck. From my experience (more than once) that is a sure fire recipe for seized keyless chuck.
Been there, done that, and got the t-shirt..... Had to do it twice to make the holesaw/keyless chuck connection. The Albrecht came un-done fairly easily, but the Rohm (I think it is) was a different story. It took the (Well, it's garbage now) treatment and a pair of pipe wrenches to get the holesaw out. I have managed to save the chuck, but it has a slight binding at the point the holesaw was located. Most might not notice it, but I put it there, so I know it well.....:(
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Just never use a hole saw of any size with a keyless chuck. From my experience (more than once) that is a sure fire recipe for seized keyless chuck.

Prolly no worries then. I've used hole saws with a hand drill and drill press so much that I've learned to hate them. I got one annular cutter with my old mill/drill. The first time I used it I instantly knew I'd never use a joke saw again. Amazing tools albeit very expensive. I use them so often now that I should probably make an exception to my self imposed set rules and buy a full set of them before I get too far down the collection trail. So no worries there.

Learning from everyone else's mistakes is a very valuable outcome of joining the forum.

My keyed chuck is 5/8 with an MT3 shank for the lathe and mill/drill. I don't have a keyed chuck for the knee mill. I think I'll add one to my watch list and get one to use when drilling above 1/2" with the knee mill. It wouldn't have to be a good one.

Most might not notice it, but I put it there, so I know it well....

I know that feeling well. Not with a keyless chuck but I think we all have a few of those constant reminders to keep us humble.....

Gee, I've been wanting to try a keyless chuck for some time now. Now I'm not sure.....

I'd still get one if I were you. They are a joy to use. You and I will just have to learn from the experiences of others, keep this high torque limitation in mind, and thereby avoid learning to hate them.

I gotta wonder if the manufacturers are aware of the limitation and if so I wonder if they so-advise users?
 
I find they tended to only bite in when used on softer HS bits and requiring help in releasing. I've been drilling a lot with mine and love it. Accusize Chuck. I will adding two more for both lathe and drill press.

I find it is easier to tighten properly and not have bit slip than a regular keyed chuck.

Use them properly, they preform great use them improperly like anything else suffer the consequences.
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Here is the PDF from the Albrecht catalogue.
 

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6.5 Fan

Ultra Member
Premium Member
I prefer keyless chucks, use one on the mill/drill, no issues so far. IMO the quality of the chuck is a big factor, the cheap keyless chucks that are on most cordless drills are the worst offenders for not grabbing securely. Never had one lock up but have had them come loose.
 

thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
It works - the main issue is that the tightening "feature" can be a feature or a deal breaker. I.e. realize there is no clutch build in - once it starts gripping harder and harder something has to give - either drill breaks, chucks explodes, machine stalls or work piece spins or you continue drilling.
Chuck exploding!! Maybe when using one of these: :p
 

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thestelster

Ultra Member
Premium Member
you know they're the best when they're hard to find for resale.

I've been looking for a sensitive drill feed model used for several years with no success.
You mean this?

I want the Albrecht chuck with the integral mt4 arbor. Really pricey here, so maybe a European vacation is in order!!
 

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