No he isn't. At my age, anybody under 60 is a youngster!
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JCDammeyer's 42 projects
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
No he isn't. At my age, anybody under 60 is a youngster!
If you are eager to get this done and want confidence that it won't pull out and you can drill through - why not make a shoulder insert that installs from the bottom? No way it will pull out, dead simple, just puts a bit more work into the wood to make a counterbore.
At this point we're into T-Nut area because the fastener still needs some method of not turning.
So I'm not a youngster in your eyes.
I'm still 35 years old in my mind. I met an attractive and very pleasant young lady, Kiera, at work about 6 months ago. We would chat a little bit every time I went to that location. One day I mentioned I was having to go to their other location, a prospect my co-workers don't particularly like. I said I didn't mind because I'd get to see the smoking hot young hottie out there. Kiera laughed and said "That's my mom". I had always realized I was always old enough to be Krystals father but this meant I am old enough to be Kieras grandfather. Aging can be so cruel. 😳
I was playing around with ChatGPT and picked this photo of my babe at 58 years old so she's still a youngster by your definition. (Doggy is 3)
Amazing what AI can do.
I set my ELS up to do a 2mm pitch thread with the Z=0.000 right at the face and END position at 0.75". Thread depth was still 0.027" (about 0.685mm). Measuring the commercial parts I should have used a 3mm pitch and a depth of 1.5mm.
To cut that wide groove and narrow tooth profile I could I guess grind up a specific tool bit. But it's easier to leave the BEGIN position at 0.2" to the right of the face and just change the Z=0.000 position 0.030" to the right. This way the thread stays synchronized. If it were a multi-start thread then it's the BEGIN position that is adjusted.
It did do a better job of compressing threads into the wood. I don't know if it would be better in spruce to mill slots along the teeth the way the commercial units do it.
And then, which is easier? Slots first and then thread or thread and then slots.
To cut that wide groove and narrow tooth profile I could I guess grind up a specific tool bit. But it's easier to leave the BEGIN position at 0.2" to the right of the face and just change the Z=0.000 position 0.030" to the right. This way the thread stays synchronized. If it were a multi-start thread then it's the BEGIN position that is adjusted.
It did do a better job of compressing threads into the wood. I don't know if it would be better in spruce to mill slots along the teeth the way the commercial units do it.
And then, which is easier? Slots first and then thread or thread and then slots.
Never do things in a rush. I switched to an ACME thread (10 TPI) tool bit used way back when to cut the lead screw for my Gingery Lathe. Then set the pitch to 3mm and depth of cut to 0.055". Shifted the Zero on other side to clean up the edges and widen the gap. Came out beautiful. Then continue the Size F drill bit to prep for tapping the 5/16" hole.
Then part it off and try the 5/16" bolt......... oops. Forgot to tap it.
I'm now running out of 1/2" stock so the cost of making them is now approaching just buy the ones I need.
Still this has been a great learning experience.
Just couldn't leave it alone...
On the far right is the model. These used to be available in hardware stores all over the place. It's 1/4-20 internal thread. About 3mm pitch on the outside.
The little guy is the 4 start 5 TPI. The one above that 2mm pitch and appears to hold in the would quite well.
And on the left my version of the 3mm. Again internal is 5/16-18 since I don't have any M8 screws. Haven't tried anchoring it in wood yet.
First time I have used my square ER32 collet holder for cutting the grooves.
On the far right is the model. These used to be available in hardware stores all over the place. It's 1/4-20 internal thread. About 3mm pitch on the outside.
The little guy is the 4 start 5 TPI. The one above that 2mm pitch and appears to hold in the would quite well.
And on the left my version of the 3mm. Again internal is 5/16-18 since I don't have any M8 screws. Haven't tried anchoring it in wood yet.
First time I have used my square ER32 collet holder for cutting the grooves.