Making progress. From the edge of the visible pipe to the flower garden curb is about 3'. Not a fan of 12' of hardpan; 5" of sandy clay and gravel and 2" of topsoil.
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JCDammeyer's 42 projects
- Thread starter jcdammeyer
- Start date
Well. There we are. Done for the day. Up to the concrete curb. Tomorrow first clear off the garden soil and set it aside. Then dig down to the pipe on the other side of the concrete. Finally tunnel through to see if the damage is under the concrete curb.
The Plumber figured that someone likely just dropped a rock onto it and then when the soil was compacted it crushed the pipe. Doesn't explain why it's been good since 1967. We bought in 1997. Don't remember when we went from Septic Tank/Field to sewer. Somewhere after 2010.
The Plumber figured that someone likely just dropped a rock onto it and then when the soil was compacted it crushed the pipe. Doesn't explain why it's been good since 1967. We bought in 1997. Don't remember when we went from Septic Tank/Field to sewer. Somewhere after 2010.
Field tiles are quite similar and often suffer the same fate.
I sometimes cut a circular hole in the top of the pipe using a big diameter hole saw - 3 or 4 inches. Then you can put a small mechanics mirror down into the hole so you can see inside. If you make a similar hole on the other side of the sidewalk you can even put a light in there. Fixing the hole is as easy as splitting a section of pipe, spreading it, and slipping it over the hole. In fact, the "sleeve" can even be glued on. Note, if the section won't spread wide enough, you may need to cut a wider strip out of it.
As I uncover more of this pipe and look again at the photo of the obstruction I'm more and more convinced this is some sort of fibreglass pipe. The outside isn't smooth like ABS. It doesn't appear to be round. The fragments hanging down as per updated photo on
Using the camera tracking distances I still have a bit to uncover and it's looking like close to where I replaced the perimeter drain pipe.
This was both the roof drain on separate solid pipes beside the standard perimeter drain pipes with holes. No photo without the gravel but I'm guessing depth wise it's close to the top of the sewer pipe.
I guess I'll see as I dig some more.
Here's a snapshot of what the plumber called crushed pipe. He couldn't get his larger cutter through. Had to drop down to 2.5" and even there he figures it turned sideways and slipped under.
This is about 10' from the white PVC clean-out pipe which goes down at an angle towards the road. So my guess is I have to maybe dig another 4'.
This is about 10' from the white PVC clean-out pipe which goes down at an angle towards the road. So my guess is I have to maybe dig another 4'.
Using the camera tracking distances I still have a bit to uncover and it's looking like close to where I replaced the perimeter drain pipe.
This was both the roof drain on separate solid pipes beside the standard perimeter drain pipes with holes. No photo without the gravel but I'm guessing depth wise it's close to the top of the sewer pipe.
I guess I'll see as I dig some more.
Well it's raining here. Don't feel like digging in the rain. Alas that means I also can't drag the furnace outside to cast or at least make ingots.
Here's a trial fit of the harmonic drive 4th axis frame. I did this to get a feel for where I'd put the sprue, gates and risers.
Sadly this photo was taken on 18FEB2018. And I still haven't cast this. So sad...
Here's a trial fit of the harmonic drive 4th axis frame. I did this to get a feel for where I'd put the sprue, gates and risers.
Sadly this photo was taken on 18FEB2018. And I still haven't cast this. So sad...
140mower
Don
Given your description of the pipe and the age of it, I am reasonably certain that it's going to be asbestos...... very common for the time period. Use a level of caution.As I uncover more of this pipe and look again at the photo of the obstruction I'm more and more convinced this is some sort of fibreglass pipe. The outside isn't smooth like ABS. It doesn't appear to be round. The fragments hanging down as per updated photo on
Here's a snapshot of what the plumber called crushed pipe. He couldn't get his larger cutter through. Had to drop down to 2.5" and even there he figures it turned sideways and slipped under.
This is about 10' from the white PVC clean-out pipe which goes down at an angle towards the road. So my guess is I have to maybe dig another 4'.
Using the camera tracking distances I still have a bit to uncover and it's looking like close to where I replaced the perimeter drain pipe.
This was both the roof drain on separate solid pipes beside the standard perimeter drain pipes with holes. No photo without the gravel but I'm guessing depth wise it's close to the top of the sewer pipe.
View attachment 71619
I guess I'll see as I dig some more.
Could very well be. Very common for water use. And when its been breached, glass strands is what you typically see.
That's a good point. I always assumed asbestos was confined to elevated temperature (insulation) purposes but they also apparently used it back in the day for water lines as wrap or part of cement composition.
The ditch is open, maybe run another line in there & be done with it!
Could very well be. Very common for water use. And when its been breached, glass strands is what you typically see.
The plumber had a name for that sort of pipe although he didn't say asbestos. He figured the house from 1969 was too new for that type of pipe but he also said that if a plumber has a piece hanging around he might just use it.
Yikes. Transite I think is the term he used..
The plumber had a name for that sort of pipe although he didn't say asbestos. He figured the house from 1969 was too new for that type of pipe but he also said that if a plumber has a piece hanging around he might just use it.
Yikes. Transite I think is the term he used..
140mower
Don
Yup, that's the stuff..... common as nails in the time period.
Since it's raining and now dark no digging of the sewer line. Thought I'd dig back into these differences in tool measurement.
As long as that one location in the linuxcnc.var doesn't change tool changes appear to be somewhat repeatable but not good enough. Thought maybe the backlash etc required more turns in the reverse direction and then back forward to properly load everything.
Here's 8 tries, same tool. Halfway through even did a Home All command.
So the dramatic change after the home all suggests that the home switch isn't as repeatable. Obviously the next task is to put a dial indicator onto the machine and measure to see if it ends up at the same home position.
Since it's the same tool. The same set of move to tool change position, stop. restart and move to tool measure position. Everything is the same and yet on each tool measure operation it looks like maybe even the tool measuring device has a certain amount of inaccuracy.
I'm thinking 0.00035 to 0.000133 isn't that big a deal for a machine with ACME screws and likely slightly worn nuts.
Homing is another thing entirely. Time to dig out the proximity switches I think.
140mower
Don
For a brief moment I understood a few of the posts and almost felt like I fit in......
So, when you getting back to the sewer line again? 😛
When it stops raining. Pretty sure I damaged the line when I installed the perimeter drain and roof drain pipes. Now the question will be how to repair it depending on where the damage is. Rain won't stop till noon.
Meanwhile I'm going to try and find my sensors for a better home switch.
You can be soooo Fk'n funny sometimes! I almost pissed myself at that one!
You just made my morning.
Thanks for being who you are Don.
0.00035 (3.5 ten thousands of an inch) is nothing, you've got that nailed on tool measurement. You are unlikely to get much better than that, as you say the tool setter itself may not have the repeatability in that range. Plus, as your machine warms up and everything grows at different rates that # will change (spindle warms up, leadscrew warms up, etc.)
Seems like the path forward now is throwing more $$$ at it in the form of a ballscrew on Z and a better tool setter. 😀
Seems like the path forward now is throwing more $$$ at it in the form of a ballscrew on Z and a better tool setter. 😀
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Don't you mean 3.5 hundredths of a thou or 0.35 tenths?
Either way, I agree that it is nothing.
You are gunna need more than a few cups of the black thick stuff.....that's still not right. Maybe just stick to the number itself - ie 0.000035.
Might be easier in this case to go metric. Ie a micron. Or... How about tiny invisible stuff that nobody cares about. LOL!