In the shop today

[Bofobo]

I have been having a problem with my MT3 tail stock -JT33 drill chuck arbour getting stuck when I want to remove it, this results in my brass wear plug being pulled out the set screw is not removable due to damage trying to remove from damaged threads, I’ve been getting around this by removing the whole sleeve and tappy tap smash it out thus far I believe that the tang (which is not on the live centre or dead centres I have) is binding on the reduction as shown here so I started grinding it off but realized that I could cut some corners and be done with it .... so I did I’ve not had a problem since.

 

[YYCHM]

Thanks for posting, I pickup my scales tomorrow. Did you re-length size your scales and if so how did that go?

Craig

 

[Bofobo]

Thanks for posting, I pickup my scales tomorrow. Did you re-length size your scales and if so how did that go?

Craig

Yes several times and ended up with one barely useable but it’s mounted. Cuts easy as aluminum does, the scale part itself is thin and copper with resin, like computer chip, files for clean edges. Hiding the cross slide scale was the better part of the job, the rest took only half of today and was simple enough for my machine. Good luck

 

[YYCHM]

Yes several times and ended up with one barely useable but it’s mounted. Cuts easy as aluminum does, the scale part itself is thin and copper with resin, like computer chip, files for clean edges. Hiding the cross slide scale was the better part of the job, the rest took only half of today and was simple enough for my machine. Good luck

I'm kind of in awe over you attaching the scale to the cross slide nut like you did. That idea would never have occurred to me. Well done!!! I'm looking at my machine as we speak.

 

[Bofobo]

My scale mount holes barely worked out in favour of that solution but a nylock nut polished it off nicely after that option presented itself

 

[YYCHM]

My scale mount holes barely worked out in favour of that solution but a nylock nut polished it off nicely after that option presented itself

Do me a favor please. What's the width and thickness of those scales?

Thanks,

Craig

 

[Marc Moreau]

So I picked up a set of IGAGING DRO scales from my CX709 from TomK and I installed them over the past week. I used only supplied hardware and still need to consolidate the wires, which might come in the form of the coolant tower (still to come, tap purchased) but my cross slide and carriage now have digital read outs.

I had an abandoned approach I show here and I need to mill out some more carriage crossslide material for an extra 1/2” of use but I can do without as the scale would contact the back splash with it. Stoked about it View attachment 8024View attachment 8025View attachment 8026View attachment 8027View attachment 8028View attachment 8029View attachment 8030View attachment 8031View attachment 8032View attachment 8033View attachment 8034View attachment 8035View attachment 8036View attachment 8037View attachment 8038View attachment 8039View attachment 8040View attachment 8041

I like this idea I was thiking how to do this ,first I try with magnet ??? then I start my restoration not finish yet . Thank you for all details pictures.

 

[Janger]

Very clever Mike.

 

[YYCHM]

Very clever Mike.

+++ on that. That's what I call thinking outside of the box. Love it.

 

[PeterT]

Dumb question but is the DRO bolted into the anti-backlash threaded holes?

 

[Bofobo]

Dumb question but is the DRO bolted into the anti-backlash threaded holes?

Well I would have to say no, the scale is though.

 

[Bofobo]

Do me a favor please. What's the width and thickness of those scales?

Thanks,

Craig

Well Craig, somewhere close to 1/4x3/4 if not just less,

 

[PeterT]

Well I would have to say no, the scale is though.

What I mean is, how do you adjust backlash now? Or are there set screws & you are using the outer bit of thread to mount?

 

[Bofobo]

I have the scale mount bolt holes over sized from original, the bolts that control the tension on the brass lash block are doubling as my mounting screws

 

[Bofobo]

Here is a few more (mostly) post production photos of my wood stove

Side and back and top view, the bits on the side are for the threaded legs (pictured later with tools and accessories) and once built, the side shelf. After it’s first use I needed to make a change with air injection so my solution is as follows and the air is controlled via this slide which moves with the loading/main door closed for flow I can close it fully and hold it closed behind the “blast door” which has a threaded locking handle accessories include wire, a small (unmade as yet) shovel, a poker and blade, rain cap, flue damper, ash tray, feet shelf and carry handle And a word on design, the air enters and ash leaves from the bottom grate starting at the back, fuel is put in from the front, the combusted gasses and heat are all forced under the top “cook surface” with this divider welded solid my temp gun said +400* when I had it together for second testing, and I could easily burn food during the first test. I am excited to try it out some more soon. I’ll leave with a few chimney bits although I will convert to premised exhaust pipe later to reduce overall weight. Full standing photo and other attachments as updates become available

 

[YYCHM]

I have this wood stove in our shed that the wife has been bitching about getting rid of (I think it makes a nice shelf?). There is pipe, and a damper (inside) and a hat (maybe, not sure). Yours for the taking. NE Calgary.

Craig

 

[Tom Kitta]

The tang is the part that is driving a drill bit - usually when you cut the corners off or the sheer off there is not enough contact anymore and the drill / chuck spins. I had to rebuild few tangs with welding a bit of material on them so they do not slip.

I am glad the scales worked out for you. Most of us have problems installing them on small machines as the glass scales on cross slide are tough to fit in.

You have exact same lathe I had just with bigger 1.5hp motor.

 

[Bofobo]

Further to my DRO install the coolant system took some form this morning.
I started with some home cast aluminum I had pre milled this as a test piece but it’s just stock and I have plenty of cast left so agile in the block it got a few clearance holes spaced @1.125” after this for the holes pre drilled in the carriage, then I made some extensions from gas pipe fitted together with some standard brass 1/4-18 NPT mounted up now I need to get a reservoir and figure mounting and drain w/screen, the pump I have already from eBay it’s twin is happily working on my bonsai landscape project so I’m sure will do nicely once I get the tank together

 

[historicalarms]

I "homebuilt" my first coolant outfit and it wasn't "perrty" but it was cheap and worked perfectly.

the only thing that was "built for the purpose" of coolant was the plastic jointed nozzle & magnetic base that BB sells, everything else was hardware bought bits & pieces.
The "holding tank was a plain ol' 5 gal pail, the pump was a $20 submersible fish tank-pond pump (inexpensive but still much more volume-pressure than is required) from any garden center and the rest was some plastic 1/8" flexible tubing, a 1/8" 3-way brass junction fitting & a 1/8" brass plumbing needle valve from C.T.
Three things that need to happen for this to work properly...first was to set the pump to hang just below coolant level in the pail...second is that the drain from your chip tray must extend all the way to the bottom of the pail and exit there, this peeps all the heavy sediment at the bottom so your pump will not grab it.
Thirdly, the 3-way must be installed between the pump & the plastic nozzle. The 3rd outlet of the joint needs a return hose all the way back to the pail. the Needle valve is installed in the return hose (somewhere easily assemble for setting).
The needle valve is crucial to a good operation, The pump, by itself will produce much more pressure than you require for the coolant. The flow control on the plastic nozzle will control amount of flow but wont control pressure and lots of "splash" will occur. with the needle valve in the return line , a pressure release can be set before it gets to the nozzle with still enough to force coolant thru it.

 

[Tom Kitta]

Yeah I have to get coolant working for my little lathe as well - with some heavier turning little guy produces tons of heat and squirting on it all the time is not wonderful... on the other hand coolant splashing all over the place is not great either - but low speed turning like up to 200 RPM its not bad.