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Great deal on a standard modern 1334

Ah, I was a post or so behind thinking we were still talking about tail stock center positioning relative to spindle, not cutting tool positioning. Carry on :)
 
To make a standard (there are many ways, this is my way)

This is a standard for the flatway - on your lathe your standard might work better on another surface

LatheStandard.JPG


Turn a piece of easily machinable material so that is round: any diameter will do.
Measure diameter (I used a micrometer).

Measure from the top of the newly machined round to the top of the carriage (If it is flat)
-your lathe may require a slightly different process if you don't have a flat topped carriage.

Now use a depth micrometer to measure from the top of the carriage to the top of the flatway.
Add the radius of the turned part to the depth-to-carriage and the depth-to-flatway.
EDIT->so it is the total distance from the top of the turned boss to the flatway minus the radius.
- by doing this several times and carefully you can easily get .001 accuracy or half that for careful measuring.

now mill a flat on you bar that will become your standard (the flat is important)
mill or turn both ends of your bar flat. and then mill it to length ( or turn it to length but that's more tricky)

Doing it quickly, you get within .001, Very carefully and with lots of trouble .00002

To Test
- set a very sharp tool to height. You can easily feel within a half-thou which is higher, the standard or the tool.
Don't use a coated carbide tool. HSS very sharp or diamond hone a carbide to be very sharp.

Face the material that hopefully is still chucked into the lathe. You should get no leftover tip in the centre. If you do, you are either too high or too low: a loupe will help find out which. Sometimes it is a user error, but the first standard I made was .002 too short, and I had to make it over.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Do u add the radius to the other two measurement or subtract the radius? If the two measurements represent the distance from the top of the new round to the flat way, my thinking is my target is that MINUS the radius?


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sorry.... subtract the radius. it got muddled when I was editing the post for the 4th time!

so it is the total distance from the top of the turned boss to the flatway minus the radius.
 
Dabbler said:
sorry.... subtract the radius. it got muddled when I was editing the post for the 4th time!

so it is the total distance from the top of the turned boss to the flatway minus the radius.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thank you for the great description. I read it over and over and that was the only piece that didn’t compute .

I’ll be crafting one of these for sure


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I wrote the lady who is selling the lathe and told her I would come and look at it if it was still available after Feb 17th . That pretty much guarantees her a sale on the 16th - LOL

still waiting on what a new Tailstock would cost...LOL
 
I thought the same thing...... and what do you want to bet that he lists is back on Kijiji in 6 mos. I think he had an old Clausing listed that he’d stripped to bare metal last summer. Everyone has to make a living, and I don’t begrudge that. It will be interesting to see how much he lists it for though, knowing how little he paid. And I’m guessing he offered her $800, lol.


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I only saw the one. No tail stock and $1000. Funny though because I am in the hunt for a Standard Modern 9 or 10 inch. Can’t seem to find one, so began looking at the Monarch 10EE. I figure, get off my wallet and skip to the end of the process. I should have bought the “basically brand new” one that was in Ottawa back in the summer. It sold for $9000. Kick myself for not jumping on that.


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Dabbler said:
No matter which tailstock you buy, from SM, offshore or auction, it will still have to be fitted to your lathe - unless you don't want it aligned.

That being said, I've never found a properly aligned tailstock that I've tested - well except my 12X37, which I aligned when I bought it - it was about .006 towards the operator, and about .002 high. Actually it is time to check it again!

Amazing that guys set tool height by their tailstock dead center, and it is a bunch of thou high/low. Sigh.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%
Lots of boogers can hide in the tail stock as an assembled unit. #1 reason for accuracy complaints when I was on the road. The worst being too high I think. IMHO well maybe when it shifts along the length of the bed is far worse but that's not a tail stock issue. Blueprinting is a whole different topic.
 
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