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Gerstner Tool Chests

Option D

This is what I shall go with. simple to make handles, only tiny holes thru the drawers to mount the handles. Attractive, enough depth to grip but not too much that I lose unacceptable amount of drawer space. Handles have flat surface that I could use to affix, or laser lasers onto.

1738008952443.png


The handles are made from a round dowel; thermally treated*, stabilized and dyed, then cut to length, milled flat on opposite sides.

1738012686125.png



*Thermally treated wood has undergone the torrefication thermochemical process which converts organic material to carbon and minerals under vacuum. The process involves heating the wood in oxygen free chamber in stages through temperatures from 150 - 400F so that the organic matter is eliminated. Since it is the organic matter that is hygroscopic eliminating organic matter leaves a more stable matrix. The longer the process (or higher the temperature) the greater the conversion of organic matter, and the darker the wood tone becomes.

The process is the same as making biochar for the long term carbon sequestration, except the lower temperatures prevent the total conversion to carbon. The wood must be kiln dried and below 6-7% moisture before it can be successfully processed. Commercial processors reintroduce some moisture in the form of steam before removing wood from the vacuum furnace to return wood to normal kiln dried levels.

I've heard some people try to wrap wood in tinfoil and bake it in their ovens. This seems crude to me. Foil wrap works in heat treating metals because metal wont combust in presence of oxygen.

I have a long 3" x 5" rectangular steel tube I epoxied nuts to the end of and used those to fasten a plate on each end. I used to use it for steam bending wood stringers for models. I can whack off the epoxied on nuts and replace with welded flanges, add a vacuum valve and use it as my vacuum chamber to go into the oven... Silicone sheet cut to make gaskets is good to 400F at least.

I think that will do the job well enough but I've thought through options to improve results if necessary. I can first vacuum the chamber, then add argon flush and then pull another vacuum. I can use higher temperatures if I pay for high temperature valve or find a free used oven I can drill a hole into and then extend the valve to outside of the oven. I plan to use a lot of torrefied wood to make this worthwhile.


1738013418393.png
 
Option D

This is what I shall go with. simple to make handles, only tiny holes thru the drawers to mount the handles. Attractive, enough depth to grip but not too much that I lose unacceptable amount of drawer space. Handles have flat surface that I could use to affix, or laser lasers onto.

View attachment 58766
Nice clean design!

The handles are made from a round dowel; thermally treated*, stabilized and dyed, then cut to length, milled flat on opposite sides.

View attachment 58770


*Thermally treated wood has undergone the torrefication thermochemical process which converts organic material to carbon and minerals under vacuum. The process involves heating the wood in oxygen free chamber in stages through temperatures from 150 - 400F so that the organic matter is eliminated. Since it is the organic matter that is hygroscopic eliminating organic matter leaves a more stable matrix. The longer the process (or higher the temperature) the greater the conversion of organic matter, and the darker the wood tone becomes.

The process is the same as making biochar for the long term carbon sequestration, except the lower temperatures prevent the total conversion to carbon. The wood must be kiln dried and below 6-7% moisture before it can be successfully processed. Commercial processors reintroduce some moisture in the form of steam before removing wood from the vacuum furnace to return wood to normal kiln dried levels.

I've heard some people try to wrap wood in tinfoil and bake it in their ovens. This seems crude to me. Foil wrap works in heat treating metals because metal wont combust in presence of oxygen.

I have a long 3" x 5" rectangular steel tube I epoxied nuts to the end of and used those to fasten a plate on each end. I used to use it for steam bending wood stringers for models. I can whack off the epoxied on nuts and replace with welded flanges, add a vacuum valve and use it as my vacuum chamber to go into the oven... Silicone sheet cut to make gaskets is good to 400F at least.

I think that will do the job well enough but I've thought through options to improve results if necessary. I can first vacuum the chamber, then add argon flush and then pull another vacuum. I can use higher temperatures if I pay for high temperature valve or find a free used oven I can drill a hole into and then extend the valve to outside of the oven. I plan to use a lot of torrefied wood to make this worthwhile.
Thanks for the details; we now know where to send wood to be stabilized ;)
 
Nice clean design!


Thanks for the details; we now know where to send wood to be stabilized ;)
Thanks, I like it, you make two of us who like it.

In the US I'd send your wood to K&G for thermoset resin stabilizing.

However to be clear, torrefaction is a completely different process that chemically alters the wood itself through the mailliard reaction, the hues vary by the length of the process so you need to shop around and see pics of each actual piece of wood.

After Torrefaction you can choose to resin stabilize the wood as well. I'm choosing to do so in order to both dye the wood deep black and add strength and wear resistance so I can use the wood as a bearing and reinforcement surface.

I'd of course say sure I'd torrify wood for people but the capacity is very limited to under 3" x 5" x 26". At that size it is likely cheaper to buy commercially made wood. More commonly listed as "roasted" wood.

Exotic Woods Canada (Burlington)

KJP Hardwoods in Ottawa

America Specialty Hardwood, for US residents
 
I think they look great.

FWIW.....

My wood chests are on a shelf above my main workbench. I store my calipers in one of the drawers and so that drawer gets pulled open countless times. My drawers are fairly wide, so I have three pulls and if I pull on just one of the outside ones the drawer tends to pull out ever so slightly cockeyed. Most of the time I have a tool in one hand and I'm pulling with the other, that's why I added the center pull, originally I just had two. Pulling just the center one just works a little more smoothly.

Just something to think of.
 
I think they look great.

FWIW.....

My wood chests are on a shelf above my main workbench. I store my calipers in one of the drawers and so that drawer gets pulled open countless times. My drawers are fairly wide, so I have three pulls and if I pull on just one of the outside ones the drawer tends to pull out ever so slightly cockeyed. Most of the time I have a tool in one hand and I'm pulling with the other, that's why I added the center pull, originally I just had two. Pulling just the center one just works a little more smoothly.

Just something to think of.

I was worried about binding in the slides, which is why I added two pulls for wide drawers to force use of two hands.

I'll test with a drawer and mock up with slides in a box and some weight in the drawer
 
So I am debating modifying the solid wood side panels of my chest design. The best built up panels are still prone to warping so I thought I'd add a piece perpendicular to the panel long axis, as gerstner has done on their solid wood chests.

1738258730199.png
 
I haven't yet found a keyed draw latch in matte black other than more modern ones.... which clash with the box corners that I designed to 3D print then cast.

I had to spend an hour moving every body because my side panels somehow were only 18.997" and it messed with the dimensioning in the drawings I was trying to create, but finally got everything how I like it and with perfect dimensions. Just need new draw latches and matching hinges. I may have to make my own hinges too


1738298140030.png
 
If the wood is prone to warping, it means it is moving due to moisture (just uneven absorption on one side). If the wood is moving, then the cross grain piece will need to account and allow for the movement so the panel does not split. This is essentially a breadboard end which is never glued across the entire width.
 
If the wood is prone to warping, it means it is moving due to moisture (just uneven absorption on one side). If the wood is moving, then the cross grain piece will need to account and allow for the movement so the panel does not split. This is essentially a breadboard end which is never glued across the entire width.

Yes, all unmodified wood is hygroscopic and will absorb and release moisture. In wide boards this can result in cupping based on the grain direction. This is why in built up panels I alternate the face direction so movement counters itself and maintains fairly flat surface. But as you allude to the panel will expand in width that should be accounted for.

I designed a wide dining room table for my brother to make for his partner, she wanted a 6" wide cross grain piece on each end and I did a calculation on the potential movement to see how much movement I needed to accommodate. It is actually a fair bit of movement.

I don't know that Gerstner solid wood chests have accommodation for movement across the side panel, I don't think they do. I think the wood has enough give to accommodate the expansion. This is why I'm debating. There should not be much moisture change or movement of the wood in my chests since temp and rH conditions will be stable. I'm more trying to maintain the Gerstner aesthetic, and if it provides a bit of prevention against cupping of the upper less supported end of the side panel that is a bonus, if it doesn't lead to other stresses.

For this chest I'm already using plywood cores with 3mm hand cut veneer for the top and bottom. If I want to eliminate that risk and make an all weather chest I could also use the plywood sides too.... with a 6mm birch plywood core with 4.5mm veneer on each side
 
If you are already using plywood top and bottom then why not on the sides? If you were buying wood for the project you could also hedge your bets against cupping by using quarter sawn wood but I believe you said earlier you already had wood. At the very least when choosing the boards from what you have try to avoid using anything containing the pith of the tree as this tends to want to cup more from what I have found.
 
If it were me I'd build it out of Baltic Birch ply.

If you are already using plywood top and bottom then why not on the sides? If you were buying wood for the project you could also hedge your bets against cupping by using quarter sawn wood but I believe you said earlier you already had wood. At the very least when choosing the boards from what you have try to avoid using anything containing the pith of the tree as this tends to want to cup more from what I have found.

@Megar arc 5040dd you are correct. I already have access to a lot of very good maple, and I wanted one really nice heirloom chest to go with the new maple workbench I'm building. The top and bottom panels have entirely hidden edges so that it is easy to incorporate the plywood, The sides would require edge banding on all four sides, easy on the vertical edges with a wide maple edge band 1" thick. The top and bottom edges I'd have to use much thinner to look pleasing, and then they're vulnerable to chipping. But the real reason I'd use solid for the back and sides is to save money. I'd have to buy a lot more plywood.

@David my follow up tool chests for the garage shops will be all plywood with the exception of the drawer faces. The drawer faces will be stabilized black dyed MDF so they resist virtually everything.
 
If it were me I'd build it out of Baltic Birch ply.
That's what I did. Then put oak trim on the front of the drawers.

First one I made sourced wood from H.D. they did not cut it square, caused me lots of grief. Second time I went to a local specialty wood place with every wood known to man kind. They cut the wood perfectly to my requested dimensions. It was priced lower than H.D.
 
Not a tool chest, but my buddy dropped this charcuterie board and 8 individual charcuterie boards by today while he was in Toronto.

I don't know that I'd like to share my charcuterie with as many as 7 other people but I sure appreciate the gift, and love the wood tones.

Bloodwood, Curly Maple, and Australian Lacewood. My photo doesn't do these justice.

20250203_151928.jpg
 
Not a tool chest, but my buddy dropped this charcuterie board and 8 individual charcuterie boards by today while he was in Toronto.

I don't know that I'd like to share my charcuterie with as many as 7 other people but I sure appreciate the gift, and love the wood tones.

Bloodwood, Curly Maple, and Australian Lacewood. My photo doesn't do these justice.

View attachment 59167
I’d best qualify my “like” emoji: really like the boards, but love you philosophy of “sharing.”
 
@TorontoBuilder

Throughout this thread I keep reading "tool chest" which must be a mistake.

The quality of the build looks like it would be better suited to store a Fabergé egg collection than tools.

Very impressive!
 
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