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Gerstner Tool Chests

Susquatch said:
A back piece that screws into the back of the front? Or perhaps a 1/16 turn dog lock. It need not be thick. If the front of the pull extends into the inside of the drawer by 1/8 inch, there is room for dogs or threads.

If the board you cut the fronts from is wide enough, you could match the grain..... Insert evil grin here......
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The problem is that the drawer face does not have enough height, drilling a hole for the pull would cut the drawer face in half
 
What about something like this. Gives you back that 1/4” of drawer depth. Lots of different sizes & materials available.
1737908767954.png
 
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My 2c:
- I would not want to flip open the pull all the time.
- When I made my wood tool chests I more or less winged it, but I did make them deep enough to fit the shelve above my bench, which I think is deeper than Gerstner.
- I 3D printed my pulls, first version was with the same logo as my metal toolchest, second version was so I could add labels, and I find the labels pretty handy.
- I used drawer slides and and like the way the drawers operate.
- This is my favourite tool box and I plan to make another one.
- It's your custom tool chest make it so it works best for YOUR needs

Image of labels

E39574E2-222B-41C6-B943-8500D6EF01A5.png
 
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slow-poke said:
My 2c:
- I would not want to flip open the pull all the time.
- When I made my wood tool chests I more or less winged it, but I did make them deep enough to fit the shelve above my bench, which I think is deeper than Gerstner.
- I 3D printed my pulls, first version was with the same logo as my metal toolchest, second version was so I could add labels, and I find the labels pretty handy.
- I used drawer slides and and like the way the drawers operate.
- This is my favourite tool box and I plan to make another one.
- It's your custom tool chest make it so it works best for YOUR needs
Click to expand...

I agree that custom chests should be tailored to the user, and I've not yet decided on a depth for mine, but I've made my drawing based on parametric sketches for most components just so I can generate different options.

I considered drawer slides but choose not to go that route based on the low usage my drawers will get. Waxed hardwoods slide well enough, and I can use detent balls to stop drawers from extending too far.

I am very fond of metal labels on stainless steel. I have a friend with CO2 laser and have many options for making them.
 
Susquatch said:
No no. It's ALWAYS ME!

See cross section of drawer front below. The rear retainer is drawn way bigger than it needs to be. Doesn't need to be any bigger than the front is.

View attachment 58732
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Okay so that is what I thought. I suppose I can make that work if I made a two size bore, and put a smaller boss on the rear of the pull, but otherwise the hole is too large as you can see below, not enough material to retain structural strength.

1737930286762.png
 
TorontoBuilder said:
Okay so that is what I thought. I suppose I can make that work if I made a two size bore, and put a smaller boss on the rear of the pull, but otherwise the hole is too large as you can see below, not enough material to retain structural strength.
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That's the second time you said that. I didn't understand the first time and figured you just mis-spoke.

I don't understand. The hole doesn't have to be any bigger than whatever it already is. If you need it to be smaller, make it smaller. The beauty of a rear retaining ring is that it will work no matter how big the hole is. You don't need to make it any bigger than it already is.
 
Susquatch said:
That's the second time you said that. I didn't understand the first time and figured you just mis-spoke.

I don't understand. The hole doesn't have to be any bigger than whatever it already is. If you need it to be smaller, make it smaller. The beauty of a rear retaining ring is that it will work no matter how big the hole is. You don't need to make it any bigger than it already is.
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Yes I got that, It is the front part where fat fingers have to hook an edge to pull against that has to be wide, not the rear projection that passes thru the second half of the face thickness. I prefer to avoid it if I can.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
Yes I got that, It is the front part where fat fingers have to hook an edge to pull against that has to be wide, not the rear projection that passes thru the second half of the face thickness. I prefer to avoid it if I can.
Click to expand...

So, you are NOT saying that a rear retention won't work. You ARE saying that the whole idea of a hole type pull won't work?

I can see that.

Thats why I also suggested a ledge or bar type pull.

Frankly, I'd just go with ordinary button pulls if I were you.
 
Susquatch said:
So, you are NOT saying that a rear retention won't work. You ARE saying that the whole idea of a hole type pull won't work?

I can see that.

Thats why I also suggested a ledge or bar type pull.

Frankly, I'd just go with ordinary button pulls if I were you.
Click to expand...

But... deeper drawers :cool:

I will look at a shallow bar pull that I can also etch a label onto. I need to find the lowest projection that I can hook with my finger.
 
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