Fusion 3D Trials & Tribulations

[StevSmar]

Could you have done that by starting with two cylinders where the OD of one was a few thou less than the ID of the other, and then add on all the welded brackets?

That’s essentially how this model was done:
- Draw a sketch that has the profile of the cylinder and extrude.
- Add the flanges.
- Use the cylinder to cut the flanges, or the flanges to cut the cylinder if necessary.
- Define reference planes (some of the flanges are not at 90 degrees to others)
- Draw sketches to extrude other features.
- Cut as necessary using either other bodies or ”tool bodies” I’ve made up just for the cuts (And then I’ve deleted the tool body).
- etc. etc. etc.
And finally combine some or all of the bodies into a body, and then put that into the Surface workspace to do the “filing“ of surfaces (if you wanted a round over in two directions then you’d need to do that with a mesh).

I’ve found that once a model gets to the “this would be so easy to do with a file” stage, actually modelling that can be a pain in the arse and I lose interest in being that accurate.

The above is a model of a part for a Hawker Hurricane, which was originally made from a casting and machined to final dimensions.
For a friend who I’ve done models for that he can get CNC machined, I’ve told him ”I’ve not modelled the surfaces that can be touched up with a file, or modelled deburring”.
(He didn’t need the model for above though, he already has that part)
(There are some fillets I didn’t model in above, since I didn’t want to make it unnecessarily tougher on my computer in the final assembly. If someone was actually going to get this CNC machined I’d model those too)

 

[StevSmar]

Here is the workflow in molds for example.

Thanks for the description!!! I’d wondered how you go about making a part for casting, allowing for shrinkage and draft angles- and it’s a complicated as I thought it would be!!!!

 

[PeterT]

A better way to retain indicator stems is with a slit & perpendicular clamping screw. No sense distorting or denting the barrel tube. Maybe that was the intent of brass, but pressure is pressure. If it was a Princess Auto dial I may have stayed silent, but a $ Mitutoyo... I was obliged to speak up Actually I should have sketched the slit extending further back which will reduced the amount of screw torque required

 

[Johnwa]

Thanks for the description!!! I’d wondered how you go about making a part for casting, allowing for shrinkage and draft angles- and it’s a complicated as I thought it would be!!!!

I‘ve never used it very much but in Fusion you can reference your one dimension to another. You can then change the first dimension and the second one will be scaled accordingly. This could be used to adjust for shrinkage. There well may be an easier way. If you’re 3d printing the pattern then it’s easy to scale in the slicer. Extrusions can include an angle for draft.

 

[Susquatch]

Here’s my take on a Indicator mounted on the carriage stop that I purchased with my lathe:

Is that a micrometer thimble at the back?

 

[Matt-Aburg]

V4 of the lathe stop... I will look at indicator later as an addon option.. and BTW, Fusion fasteners are GOOD, even though this was imported back into NX.. better than having to download from mcmaster carr

 

[Susquatch]

V4 of the lathe stop... I will look at indicator later as an addon option.. and BTW, Fusion fasteners are GOOD, even though this was imported back into NX.. better than having to download from mcmaster carr

Nice tidy little stop.

Need to add a micrometer spindle to the stop and a mount for a dial indicator. I'm not sure if the latter should be a split sleeve like @PeterT drew or a tang holder for a back mount indicator. I have mixed emotions.

 

[Susquatch]

https://www.wadeodesign.com/cnc-lathe-documentation.html The Grizzly G0602 is essentially identical to my King KC1022. When I decided to add an ELS I went looking for existing CAD files and found his.

Thanks Gerrit. I poked around a fair bit and ended up at dead ends. But I wasn't really expecting to hit pay dirt so it's no biggie. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

I'm not about to create it myself.

Thanks again. It was worth a try.

 

[Matt-Aburg]

I‘ve never used it very much but in Fusion you can reference your one dimension to another. You can then change the first dimension and the second one will be scaled accordingly. This could be used to adjust for shrinkage. There well may be an easier way. If you’re 3d printing the pattern then it’s easy to scale in the slicer. Extrusions can include an angle for draft.

You can just scale the body in Fusion. under modify/scale, select the body type in the scale factor.. no sketches to change...

 

[StevSmar]

A better way to retain indicator stems is with a slit & perpendicular clamping screw. No sense distorting or denting the barrel tube. Maybe that was the intent of brass, but pressure is pressure. If it was a Princess Auto dial I may have stayed silent, but a $ Mitutoyo... I was obliged to speak up

LOL, yes that was the intent of the brass screw. Maybe in version two I’ll use the slit method which I agree is nicer on a nice dial indicator.

I‘ve never used it very much but in Fusion you can reference your one dimension to another. You can then change the first dimension and the second one will be scaled accordingly.

What you’re describing is a formula. In every command in Fusion you can type in the dimension name (d42 for example) and that number will be used in that field of the command (for example, if I want to make a sketch which shows the height for an extrude command (the reason you might want to do this is because there’s another command when you right click on a sketch “show dimension” which shows the dimensions even when you’re not editing a sketch. So you can click on that dimension and edit the dimension without going into the command))

You can just scale the body in Fusion.

Neat, I’d forgotten you could do that.

 

[StevSmar]

Is that a micrometer thimble at the back?

Yes, it looks like some sort of heavy duty thimble so you can fine adjust the stop.

If you need a better photo of it let me know.

 

[Susquatch]

Yes, it looks like some sort of heavy duty thimble so you can fine adjust the stop.

If you need a better photo of it let me know.

Thanks. Better photo isn't required. Not sure I want a solid stop anyway. I prefer a dial indicator stop without a hard stop.

 

[Arbutus]

Perhaps like this - there is the indicator as well as an adjustable hard stop. The gadget clamps across the front way, not vertically.

 

[DavidR8]

Perhaps like this - there is the indicator as well as an adjustable hard stop. The gadget clamps across the front way, not vertically.

View attachment 42024
View attachment 42025View attachment 42026

I like that idea, seems like it would be easier to adjust and position.

 

[Susquatch]

Perhaps like this - there is the indicator as well as an adjustable hard stop. The gadget clamps across the front way, not vertically.

I Like that too. Might be more solid as well.

 

[Matt-Aburg]

Thanks. Better photo isn't required. Not sure I want a solid stop anyway. I prefer a dial indicator stop without a hard stop.

Maybe combine all these ideas... I have 2 weeks off... Why I like hard-stop as opposed to micrometers and indicators is... you have a compound with graduations on it... and depth mic, or Vernier so these other things seem redundant to me... but that's my preference. Remember, I used to do short run production .. say 10-30 pcs / run... also the Colchester had a multi position carriage stop setup as shown..

 

[Susquatch]

Maybe combine all these ideas...

Ya, better too much than too little.

 

[gerritv]

Thanks Gerrit. I poked around a fair bit and ended up at dead ends. But I wasn't really expecting to hit pay dirt so it's no biggie. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

I'm not about to create it myself.

Thanks again. It was worth a try.

On that page scroll down to this section and answer the question, e.g. forum post. It will then download a zip file that contains the .step of the lathe.

 

[Susquatch]

On that page scroll down to this section and answer the question, e.g. forum post. It will then download a zip file that contains the .step of the lathe.

Sorry @gerritv, as usual, my post wasn't very clear. I found the download for that lathe. But I was looking for the file for MY LATHE which is a bigger grizzly lathe. I couldn't find it.