Those flame outs were north of 20psi
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Forge and foundry build
- Thread starter Bofobo
- Start date
Flame goes out, propane is hissing, followed by reframe
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Hey guys new to the forum, but a few quick items to add to the discussion.
We sell foundry/forge materials on the west coast, Surrey BC
1. Tim Smelko very cool, but Ontario is a distance away.
2. Use Perlite, not vermiculite. 4 cubic bag of Perlite will run you about $20 at the most.
3. Those white bricks are "insulating" and have very little strength. You should think a PR2300 or PR2600. Much stroger at the higher temps. Basically you can drop something on them and they wont chip or break. Also if you think you may splash, i use non spall type bricks.
I used them in the door area of my homemade pizza oven to protect it from the elements, snow and water can do serious damage.
4. You all might think about "plastic refractory" They come in 55lb boxes and are very malleable. Once fired just as hard as bricks, but easier to form.
5. Kiln Plates - I have used a product called "tufflloor" it is a high temp refractory that cures with out needing to be fired. Once cured (12 hours) you can drive a forklift over it and no damage. I have used it in foundry floors and in my pizza oven.
6. and do try to stay away from vermiculite.
Ray
We sell foundry/forge materials on the west coast, Surrey BC
1. Tim Smelko very cool, but Ontario is a distance away.
2. Use Perlite, not vermiculite. 4 cubic bag of Perlite will run you about $20 at the most.
3. Those white bricks are "insulating" and have very little strength. You should think a PR2300 or PR2600. Much stroger at the higher temps. Basically you can drop something on them and they wont chip or break. Also if you think you may splash, i use non spall type bricks.
I used them in the door area of my homemade pizza oven to protect it from the elements, snow and water can do serious damage.
4. You all might think about "plastic refractory" They come in 55lb boxes and are very malleable. Once fired just as hard as bricks, but easier to form.
5. Kiln Plates - I have used a product called "tufflloor" it is a high temp refractory that cures with out needing to be fired. Once cured (12 hours) you can drive a forklift over it and no damage. I have used it in foundry floors and in my pizza oven.
6. and do try to stay away from vermiculite.
Ray
Bofobo
M,Mizera(BOFOBO)
I fix that by adjusting my air flow
To the burner or to the furnace?
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Too much oxygen in a oxy propane system will extinguish the flame. For forced air burners just reduse the air pressure, and for atmospheric burners use an air choke to limit the amount of air that gets sucked into the burner.
If direct flame contact is to be avoided when curing any castable refractory, then how could you cure the interior of a propane forge made with castable refractory cement. I am looking into improving the strength of my forge's interior walls protecting the ceramic fiber blanket. So what, would be the best way to protect the insulation with the use of castable refractory such as morocast 60?
I've used light bulbs or a heating element from a dryer before. Slow even heat for a good while
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Bofobo
M,Mizera(BOFOBO)
Well jumped straight into the forge in a day ( i only had a few hours or id have finnished) heres some pictures, the write up may come later, but for now key points are that it is not complete and my chipping hammer is ghetto AF (i know this)
Attachments
The burner that I am using for my forge is definitely oversized for the size of my forging chamber, which is 8" × 16"; but I was told that it could still be used for smaller forges at pressures as low as 5 psi, still delivering up to 100,000 btu/h. But The amount of dragons breath that I still get from the forge (1 ft), tells me the burner most likely has too much back preasure. If I increased the size of the exhaust port on the backside to at least 7 times the area of the burner's nossle would it decrease the dragons breath by allowing the burner to breath more, or would it only allow more heat to escape? What would be the best way to reduse the dragons breath that comes from the forge and still retain enough heat to reach forge welding temperature?
I have similar issues. It seems like opening the back more just let’s all the extra heat out.
