Forge and foundry build

[Bofobo]

No I'm not. The only hole on the bottom is for my torch and it's not quite at the bottom and sits 5* downward. And now allow me to explain why. I've watched all these you tubers try and I see the reason but most just catch the lawn on fire. I did not put a hole in anything for containment purposes. And with what I see happening in my current rendition I don't see a reason to change it. When I'm placing material into the crucible, some times as it's to long and thick I'll leave it alone and process my next piece of scrap, well I have little messes and some times while scrapping dross I'll spill a little and I've had a few critical failures in smaller scale , the surface tension of the material keeps it in a mercury like state unlike water, I figure even if the whole crucible empties I should only have a little spill and the material will likely not bond to the refractory material. If it does lesson learned, I may simply have to cut the soft refractory out (worst case scenario) but so far I've never seen that. I've used the fire brick as a crucible In A wood fire for an aluminum experiment, that worked great also.

I've used some hefty nuts to keep my crucible elevated and it's working but currently the bottom of mine is like a plaster refractory beachLol

although it works I don't recommend the plaster and sand refractory, the time and materials alone but also quality dictate this to be a foolish venture. A simple yet very effective alternative is the brick forge here is one I started with

 

[Murdoch]

No I'm not. The only hole on the bottom is for my torch and it's not quite at the bottom and sits 5* downward. And now allow me to explain why. I've watched all these you tubers try and I see the reason but most just catch the lawn on fire. I did not put a hole in anything for containment purposes. And with what I see happening in my current rendition I don't see a reason to change it. When I'm placing material into the crucible, some times as it's to long and thick I'll leave it alone and process my next piece of scrap, well I have little messes and some times while scrapping dross I'll spill a little and I've had a few critical failures in smaller scale , the surface tension of the material keeps it in a mercury like state unlike water, I figure even if the whole crucible empties I should only have a little spill and the material will likely not bond to the refractory material. If it does lesson learned, I may simply have to cut the soft refractory out (worst case scenario) but so far I've never seen that. I've used the fire brick as a crucible In A wood fire for an aluminum experiment, that worked great also.

I've used some hefty nuts to keep my crucible elevated and it's working but currently the bottom of mine is like a plaster refractory beachLol

although it works I don't recommend the plaster and sand refractory, the time and materials alone but also quality dictate this to be a foolish venture. A simple yet very effective alternative is the brick forge here is one I started with

What type of burner are you using? Have you any pics? Is it propane and air. I ask because I am looking to make my own and want to get different designs to see which I would like to go with. Thanks in advance...GMurdoch

 

[Bofobo]

I tried to add a video of a small one but it has to be a you tube link and it's not on you tube yet.

I have options Murdoch, I started with simple first and that was a plain old LP 1lb torch, that works fine naturally aspirated but to melt copper a regular stream of compressed air ( I used my compressor)
Second and current fave for small scale was MAP gas with the fancy tip used for them. The MAP is not cheap tho (I don't remember adding air to melt copper) so once the bottle was empty I switched to LP again and that's great for up to brass without compressed air.
I use the MAP tip in my current forge as well creating a small shack of bits.
Third I have a tiger torch I could use but have not yet
Fourth I have a PA (princess auto) snow melter torch also as yet un used.
Fifth and most important I constructed the YOU TUBER "Grant Thompson "the king of random"s" "gas blaster torch" all pieces are common enough to buy with minimal expertise required and he shows the whole build, using a cordless drill, file, and tap and drill set for his chosen fasteners.

Now having seen the price of a tiger torch and others new, I don't think option 5 is the cheapest. It cost well over $100 to construct here in Calgary, the hose and regulator were the big ticket items in the build but it was kind of the first thing I did after getting my mill semi set up because it looked like a good starter project. It is naturally aspirated but you can force air in. And it will melt brass but I've not tried to add compressed air because my plaster started to fall apart, although it's on the to do list as my copper scrap needs consolidating very badly.

Many burner designs exist but they are all the same. small hole in gas line (seems that the bigger the hole the more fuel you can introduce (regulated) although that's just an observation from my LP tips and MAP tips and the mig welding tip) inside mixing chamber, air inlet (naturally aspirated or coupled to forced air(could be compressed too).
Create directional flow and keep hands clear of the business end when lighting.

 

[Tom O]

I didn't put a drain hole in when I made it but also use a steel homemade crucible for aluminum, the clay graphite crucible I use for brass.
I've never had a problem so far but It would maybe be a good idea to have one as long as there is a place for it to flow to, maybe raise the furnace up say 6" so a removable tray could catch any misfortunes.

 

[Murdoch]

View attachment 1279 View attachment 1280 I tried to add a video of a small one but it has to be a you tube link and it's not on you tube yet.

I have options Murdoch, I started with simple first and that was a plain old LP 1lb torch, that works fine naturally aspirated but to melt copper a regular stream of compressed air ( I used my compressor)
Second and current fave for small scale was MAP gas with the fancy tip used for them. The MAP is not cheap tho (I don't remember adding air to melt copper) so once the bottle was empty I switched to LP again and that's great for up to brass without compressed air.
I use the MAP tip in my current forge as well creating a small shack of bits.
Third I have a tiger torch I could use but have not yet
Fourth I have a PA (princess auto) snow melter torch also as yet un used.
Fifth and most important I constructed the YOU TUBER "Grant Thompson "the king of random"s" "gas blaster torch" all pieces are common enough to buy with minimal expertise required and he shows the whole build, using a cordless drill, file, and tap and drill set for his chosen fasteners.

Now having seen the price of a tiger torch and others new, I don't think option 5 is the cheapest. It cost well over $100 to construct here in Calgary, the hose and regulator were the big ticket items in the build but it was kind of the first thing I did after getting my mill semi set up because it looked like a good starter project. It is naturally aspirated but you can force air in. And it will melt brass but I've not tried to add compressed air because my plaster started to fall apart, although it's on the to do list as my copper scrap needs consolidating very badly.

Many burner designs exist but they are all the same. small hole in gas line (seems that the bigger the hole the more fuel you can introduce (regulated) although that's just an observation from my LP tips and MAP tips and the mig welding tip) inside mixing chamber, air inlet (naturally aspirated or coupled to forced air(could be compressed too).
Create directional flow and keep hands clear of the business end when lighting.

Just saw that Grant Thompson YouTube video, bloody awesome stuff. I'm gonna give it a go, I think...GMurdoch

 

[Bofobo]

Ok I'll tell you tho from my experience with building his exactly ... I would ad a forced air option, even if you never plan to use it, in the end you may find it handy to already have. Now I canno remember who's video it was but he built one very very similar with forced air best I can say is watch all the vieos you can on the subject ... I should have lol

 

[Tom O]

This is what I use for a blower It is just a pipe that has a hole for the propane feed tube to slide into it the tube has a piece soldered into the end with the chosen orfice drilled the speed of the motor is controlled by a dimmer switch.
Here is a pic of it on my furnace.

 

[Tom O]

Using forced air is the best way I think it allows you to reach the higher temps faster. Here is a gas / orfice chart to help you out.

 

[Murdoch]

This is what I use for a blower It is just a pipe that has a hole for the propane feed tube to slide into it the tube has a piece soldered into the end with the chosen orfice drilled the sped of the motor is controlled by a dimmer switch.
Here is a pic of it on my furnace.View attachment 1282View attachment 1281

This is great Tom, trouble is I just can't stop looking at the lathe in the background lol...GMurdoch

 

[Tom O]

lol its across from the mill and shaper.
Iron man does good video's on casting as well as making a furnace I'd trust him before Grant t.

 

[Murdoch]

lol its across from the mill and shaper.
Iron man does good video's on casting as well as making a furnace I'd trust him before Grant t.

Have you a link for Iron man?

 

[Bofobo]

Where did you find that blower tom? It looks just like my old coal forge blower but not quite the same and no fancy motor haha. Before I had this I used an old hair dryer with 3 whole speeds

 

[Tom O]

I'm not sure where I got that one from but it works great! I had a steam cleaner base with pilot control, blower, and feed pipe but during renovations to the garage my son dragged it outside and the scrappies got it, I envisioned it being a tipping furnace.
I have picked up a bouncey castle blower on kijiji for $25.00 but have'nt used it yet.

 

[Tom O]

here is a link to my furnace build: http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8920.msg97430.html#msg97430
And a link to ironman's furnace build showing a iron casting.

Another thing for you to consider is sand. I tried my first casting with playsand which leaves quite a rough finish then tryed a type at Burnco called golden sand that is used in morter work it's much finer grain as you can see at post # 16 below followed by pics of the casted parts.
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9886.msg110560.html#msg110560

 

[Bofobo]

Well I took the time to break out my old plaster/sand foundry liner. And perhaps with more plaster in the mix and better drying it could be a decent system but it's gone now lol, but I decided to use it for a filler in the bottom, under my round pottery shelf thing. Now 2 layers of refractory and I watch a you tube video .... The guy melted the refractory material with his torch. now I don't know what to do to line the liner ... I have some of a more dense material laying around but I don't fully know what it's limitations are I'll get a picture once I pull it from the garage attic.

"Thru Forge" build next then sword forge ...

 

[Bofobo]

This is the sheet I mentioned, it's quite stiff and I hope it will work but I'll have to find the time to cut and install this weekend

 

[Bofobo]

Here it looks with the new liner. Now to burn it in and giver!

 

[CalgaryPT]

Just thought I'd drop this link in: BILLSTMAXX on YouTube. He's building a foundry as well. I don't think he has done as much research as Bofobo and others here, but it is interesting to watch his vids as he clearly likes learning at the same time he builds. He seems an affable guy. He does maintenance for a private cemetery in Ontario and has vids every project from metal working to tractors. I'm no expert on foundry, but I gotta think this one vid where he cuts out the torch hole with Dozer saws isn't the SOP:

To be fair he readily admits he is learning as he goes. I wish I had the space to do stuff like this. Then again, I don't have a have my shop in a cemetery. (Although there are days when my wife would probably throw my tools in the grave after me).

I'll also post the link on our links page.

 

[Chris Cramer]

What are the best places in Calgary to purchase refractory supplies such as ceramic blanket, fire bricks, castable refractories, and coatings for ceramic blanket. I googled ceramic suppliers in Calgary and all the results are companies such as Clayburn Refractories, and Alliance refractories, who only supply refractories to certain industries. Would I still be able to purchase something from them?

 

[Johnwa]

The only place that I've actually bought from is Ceramics Canada. Their prices are a bit on the high side. According to discussions on the protospace group you can get bricks shipped from Ontario cheaper. I've never tried any of the places you've listed but I have been meaning to try Burnaby Insulation.