Are those hardened or deliberately machinable ends?
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Fixerup patch up
- Thread starter fixerup
- Start date
Are those hardened or deliberately machinable ends?
Yours are MT2. I have purchased machinable MT3 in the past for use in my rotary table. At the time they had no R8. Any chance they had R8 where you got yours?
Modify another MT2 1" stub. I now have quick access to an edge finder holder.
I make most of them the following way.
-measure the 1"stub runout in my milling machine quill. .0005" is acceptable.
-dial in the 1" stub in the lathe 4 jaw chuck.
-drill under size.
-bore to .005" under size.
- ream to size.
- drill and tap for a set screw.
I have not done anything to harden the collets. So far they haven't worn much if any wear..
Most of the holders in the picture turn out better than .001" of runout. Some .0005'' like my mill spindle.
The single carbide cutter I made didn't work. I wasn't able to make the pocket accurately.
I make most of them the following way.
-measure the 1"stub runout in my milling machine quill. .0005" is acceptable.
-dial in the 1" stub in the lathe 4 jaw chuck.
-drill under size.
-bore to .005" under size.
- ream to size.
- drill and tap for a set screw.
I have not done anything to harden the collets. So far they haven't worn much if any wear..
Most of the holders in the picture turn out better than .001" of runout. Some .0005'' like my mill spindle.
The single carbide cutter I made didn't work. I wasn't able to make the pocket accurately.
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My 3 in 1 metal working machine was not working properly and needed some attention. It's a 40 inch busy bee brand, looks solidly made but poorly put together.
Fixed 6 problems and now it's much better. Fixes matches the numbers in the picture.
1. I made some clamping plate to hold brake beam. Because the pocket were the two SHCS are to large for the heads and don't clamp properly.
2. The brake beam uses two screws to prevent any movement once it's clamp down. Under stress it cracked the thin housing on the geared side. Made some larger block to distribute the pressure more evenly.
3. Made a longer guide to square pieces along the shear. The original guide was 2" the new is 4" long.
4. The clamping bar setup wouldn't clamp anything. Made longer screws and installed heavier springs.
5. The original roller bushing was hand filled round and oval in shape. ???
Made a new one.
6. The removable slip roller lock-in cam screw, which keeps the roller secured in its groove would open under load and the complete roller would pop out. Made a pin to keep the cam lever in lock position during use.
Another thing I did was to machined to the same lenght, all the individual brake plate so that they all were resting equally on the backing plate and the Vee groove.
Finally cleaned, adjusted the shear blade sliders and gap, the brake height and stoppers, greased all the pivot, sliders and gears.
Having worked on some good quality Diacro sheet metal machine. I never really liked this 3 in 1. But after this round of TLC I have warm up to it a bit.
Fixed 6 problems and now it's much better. Fixes matches the numbers in the picture.
1. I made some clamping plate to hold brake beam. Because the pocket were the two SHCS are to large for the heads and don't clamp properly.
2. The brake beam uses two screws to prevent any movement once it's clamp down. Under stress it cracked the thin housing on the geared side. Made some larger block to distribute the pressure more evenly.
3. Made a longer guide to square pieces along the shear. The original guide was 2" the new is 4" long.
4. The clamping bar setup wouldn't clamp anything. Made longer screws and installed heavier springs.
5. The original roller bushing was hand filled round and oval in shape. ???
Made a new one.
6. The removable slip roller lock-in cam screw, which keeps the roller secured in its groove would open under load and the complete roller would pop out. Made a pin to keep the cam lever in lock position during use.
Another thing I did was to machined to the same lenght, all the individual brake plate so that they all were resting equally on the backing plate and the Vee groove.
Finally cleaned, adjusted the shear blade sliders and gap, the brake height and stoppers, greased all the pivot, sliders and gears.
Having worked on some good quality Diacro sheet metal machine. I never really liked this 3 in 1. But after this round of TLC I have warm up to it a bit.
Now that the gardening is almost done, I am super stoked to get back in the shop to play. I finally got to used the British standard wrenches that JustDB kindly rerouted my way and started to work on my 1956 Triumph TRW motorcycle. I needed to reconstruct two lock washer, one on the stator and one on the clutch basket. I drew the washers in tinkercad and 3D printed some samples ones, which I use has template and scribe the contour on steel sheet. Used a nibbling pliers to remove most of the material and used the die filler to get me right to the scribe marks. The die filler was perfect for this job, can't see myself using it for much more.
It was an easy project to start the shop season, really nice feeling to be back and tinker in the shop and catching up on everybody's projects
Cheers!
It was an easy project to start the shop season, really nice feeling to be back and tinker in the shop and catching up on everybody's projects
Cheers!
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140mower
Don
When it's time for a die filer, it's time for a die filer........ They sit around most of the time, but I am thankful for mine when I have that little need that says "it's time for a die filer"..... Which happens way more now that I have one than it did before...... 🙄
What brand is yours? Mine is a Butterfly, I really need to make up an overarm and give my fingertips a break......
What brand is yours? Mine is a Butterfly, I really need to make up an overarm and give my fingertips a break......
When I started looking at making the washers. I though a rotary table, finger plate and a small end mill. But that setup seemed to be troublesome and time consuming.
Then I thought to ask my friend to cut them with his wazer water jet cutter. But I didn't wanted to bother him and couldn't easily covert my stl files into dxl files. Finally the light bulb came on " why don't I use the die filler" and I am glad I did. It was super easy to shape the sheet metal into a washer. " it was the perfect time to use a die filler"
Mine is a Keller no 1A.
The overarm is nice to have. It holds the part down and supports the file from the side pressure.
Then I thought to ask my friend to cut them with his wazer water jet cutter. But I didn't wanted to bother him and couldn't easily covert my stl files into dxl files. Finally the light bulb came on " why don't I use the die filler" and I am glad I did. It was super easy to shape the sheet metal into a washer. " it was the perfect time to use a die filler"
Mine is a Keller no 1A.
The overarm is nice to have. It holds the part down and supports the file from the side pressure.
I'm a bit late to this party, but did you consider making them on a lathe?
My neighbor ask if I could make him an attachment for his sawzall, to mount a round chainsaw file. I made it of a .080" scrap stainless steel sheet and a modified 1/2" bolt with .200" hole and two set screws to hold the file. I then silver soldered both parts together. It was a simple project and I was happy to make it, he his such a good neighbor.
A few years ago I bought an old style thread chaser, the one which has exchangeable dies.
I never used it and thought it would be useful if I converted it into a large tap handle. It now can be used to drive taps or square shanks from 3/8 to 5/8". No modifications were done to the original tool, so if I ever need an 1/2" thread chaser it will be available.
I never used it and thought it would be useful if I converted it into a large tap handle. It now can be used to drive taps or square shanks from 3/8 to 5/8". No modifications were done to the original tool, so if I ever need an 1/2" thread chaser it will be available.
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I had this glass suction lifting bar and the rubber cups became really hard and no longer held vacuum. Decided to recycle it into a 1 1/2' round die holder, which I did not have. Enlarged the hole and added 2 grub screws and handle.
A nice enjoyable hour spent in the shop making a super simple tool .
I don't need the lathe chuck to hold my 1 1/2" round dies anymore, I now have the tool.
A nice enjoyable hour spent in the shop making a super simple tool .
I don't need the lathe chuck to hold my 1 1/2" round dies anymore, I now have the tool.
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I used up my last bandsaw blade for my Craftex B2442. I had a good stock of longer bandsaw blades ~ 142''. So I cut them to 64 3/4'' which is about the maximum blade lenght my saw can accommodate. At that lenght I might also have a second chance to repair if they were to break. I did a angle split bevel on the ends. The angle was about 20° and the bevel less than 1/8'' wide. Cleaned the ends with acetone and mounted them in the soldering jig, pulling one end out to leave a tiny gap < .003''. Applied flux and a .030'' dia silver solder across the joint and made sure it was longer by 1/16" on both side. Flowed the solder and then removed the excess solder with a file. First time I use a file and found out it gave me a much better control than the belt sander. Made 16 of them, it might be the last time, I will ever make blades again .
I had some small blade left over and thought I would make a back scratcher or a small rasp. I quickly did a print to check blade fitment. Later I will thinker it and come up with a plan to make them. I remember reading about a bandsaw blade scratcher in the Guy Lautard BSM.
I had some small blade left over and thought I would make a back scratcher or a small rasp. I quickly did a print to check blade fitment. Later I will thinker it and come up with a plan to make them. I remember reading about a bandsaw blade scratcher in the Guy Lautard BSM.
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Just finished a treadle blade mount for a 1920 Hobbies fret saw. The top saw blade mounting bracket was completely missing, but the bottom one was still there and provide me enough detail to make the top. I used some scraps from the bins and some old style square nut to match the other one used on the machine. I left some tool mark and rust to make it look more original. I tested it on a 1/4 plywood, it work ok, but I think a better blade will make a huge difference. It reminded me of my Mom's treadle singer sewing machine.
Nice machiene.
I'd love to see a video of this machine in action. feet going...wood being cut. gerars turning....