• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Electric panel questions.

That is basically what I've been doing. Maybe three inches max height at the outside edge of the sill plate.

That R40 is 11 inches , so I've been tearing it at about the 50% thickness.


and a photo for something to look at.....lol

DSC_4168.JPG
 
Just for future reference, they make wax coated carboard baffles that staple in place and form a pocket to completely block the end. I have used both and find these way better.

maxresdefault.jpg
 
Sorry Perry, I know this is too late but If you buy a minimum of 10 bags of the blown insulation at Home Depot they give you a free rental of the machine. It is faster and easier to do it that way.
 
I hear you on security. I am a crazy man when it comes to security. I always go way overboard. If you have wired internet into your shop, you could install a low powered wireless access point for just inside the shop that no-one outside would even know was there. Just a thought.
Our security system is tied into the internet in the house. I have that configuration in the shop as I use the wifi for cell phone. The router is connected to the light circuit and is turned off when I leave the building.
 
Our security system is tied into the internet in the house. I have that configuration in the shop as I use the wifi for cell phone. The router is connected to the light circuit and is turned off when I leave the building.
Mine is tied into the house too. But you are the first I've ever heard who powered their WiFi off the light circuit. It's an excellent idea that I will have to remember for the future. Unfortunately, I couldn't do that in my shop because my security cameras are also wireless.
 
Just for future reference, they make wax coated carboard baffles that staple in place and form a pocket to completely block the end. I have used both and find these way better.

maxresdefault.jpg
If you could only find those. I looked. I couldn't even find the styrofoam ones that have the creased ends that you fold into shape.

I like how much room you have above the top plate. It's funny the little things you start to notice after working on a project. :)
 
Mine is tied into the house too. But you are the first I've ever heard who powered their WiFi off the light circuit. It's an excellent idea that I will have to remember for the future. Unfortunately, I couldn't do that in my shop because my security cameras are also wireless.
In stead of hard wiring the lights in I installed plugins that are switched for all lights. I also used those circuits for parasitic loads.
 
Finished the ceiling insulation and vapor barrier last week. Took most of the weekend off, but I did add a catwalk in the attic.
DSC_4192.JPG


Need to make an attic door tomorrow. I sized the opening fairly large. 54''X22". Might have to reduce it to 48". (Easier to purchase a smaller piece of material for the door) I seem to remember Home Depot use to sell half sheets.....cut 2'X 8', but I can't find them now.

This week the ceiling drywall will hopefully go up. Only 18 sheets, but 1000 items to shuffle around in the garage. lol
 
Last edited:
Finished the ceiling insulation and vapor barrier last week. Took most of the weekend off, but I did add a catwalk in the attic.
View attachment 21467


Need to make an attic door tomorrow. I sized the opening fairly large. 54''X22". Might have to reduce it to 48". (Easier to purchase a smaller piece of material for the door) I seem to remember Home Depot use to sell half sheets.....cut 2'X 8', but I can't find them now.

This week the ceiling drywall will hopefully go up. Only 18 sheets, but 1000 items to shuffle around in the garage. lol

Its looking GREAT @Perry! I can sense your well deserved pride!

If it's not too late, consider sub floor instead of drywall. I've seen a couple of shops done that way and it looks awesome! Best of all it's WAY EASIER to do than drywall.
 
Drywall up on the ceiling, finished over the week end.

I usually park the truck in the garage, but left it out because I still had a bit of a mess to sort out in the garage.

Yesterdays plan was to start the next stage of the project, but when I went out to my truck I found that someone liked my catalytic converter more than me.

So I spent most of the day talking (when I say talking, I actually mean waiting on hold) with the insurance company. Today they towed the truck off.....to a body shop? I questioned what that was about and they said they take it to a body shop first to appraise it, then to the muffler shop. Something sounds off here.

So here I sit in a holding pattern. Perfect time to do the taxes. I do a few peoples so they all just got lucky. :)
 
Drywall up on the ceiling, finished over the week end.

I usually park the truck in the garage, but left it out because I still had a bit of a mess to sort out in the garage.

Yesterdays plan was to start the next stage of the project, but when I went out to my truck I found that someone liked my catalytic converter more than me.

So I spent most of the day talking (when I say talking, I actually mean waiting on hold) with the insurance company. Today they towed the truck off.....to a body shop? I questioned what that was about and they said they take it to a body shop first to appraise it, then to the muffler shop. Something sounds off here.

So here I sit in a holding pattern. Perfect time to do the taxes. I do a few peoples so they all just got lucky. :)
Sorry to hear about your catalytic converter. Someone tried to remove mine in the parking lot of a Home Depot. They cut the rear pipe half way through before abandoning the exercise for reasons unknown. I was lucky just had to weld the cut closed.
 
Ok, the garage project is moving forward again. :) Working on the last wall of insulation and putting dry wall up.

Question of the day. The exhaust for the furnace goes thru the wall .(Horiizontal) How do you seal the vapor barrier around that area?

I've checked the internet and of course I now have more questions and seen multiple installs that conflict with each other.


My terminology may be off here but from what I understand is the square metal piece is called the "firestop".

Do you seal the vapor barrier to the firestop plate and install the drywall over it?

OR

Do you slide the firestop back drywall the wall (leaving an opening large enough to slide the fire stop back in place) and then slide the fire stop back into place. If I do it this way...What happens to the vapor barrier?



DSC_4573.JPG

Thank you in advance.
 
Vapor Barrier won't be 100% sealed around it, don't worry about it. The thimble should go on the outside of the drywall, you want that protected sleeve all the way through the wall.
 
Thank you SomeGuy.

So I peeled the high temp silicone off and pulled the thimble back. Should have done that first prior to posting. I think I see an easy answer. I'll frame a box around the exhaust and then seal the vapor barrier on that boxed opening. I don't think I'll need to insulate inside the boxed area around the pipe unless you guys have some wisdom for me. :)

Will update with a picture later. Back to work.

DSC_4556-2.JPG
 
Back
Top