• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

DavidR8's shop shenanigans

Qqq
Hruul said:
Thanks for that info. I will have to look into this. There are at least 8 other WiFi networks that I can see on my phone when I am in the house. Doesn't hurt to check if I can find a frequency that is not being used.
Click to expand...

No, sweat.

Because WiFi is FM, it is good to select one that is at least 3 channels away. 4 or 5 is better still.

Also good to check every so often. People buy new stuff all the time.
 
It should be noted that modern WiFi isn't very much like classic FM signals.

AM signals are the most basic and the information is carried by changes in the amplitude on a single carrier frequency

FM signals are more complex and the information is carried by changes in the frequency within a band of related frequencies

WiFi signals are much more complex and the information is carried by the interference withing bands of related frequencies - including interference generated from other signals and obstacles - by triggering and interpreting two way changes in 3D electric fields

The details are to complex for a simple post of a forum like this, but the IEEE publishes these standards and for anyone suffering from insomnia, there are thousands of pages of standards documents and their compendia freely available on the net

These details are largely irrelevant - the practical advise that Susquatch and others have provided all seems valid
 
mbond said:
The details are to complex for a simple post of a forum like this, but the IEEE publishes these standards and for anyone suffering from insomnia, there are thousands of pages of standards documents and their compendia freely available on the net
Click to expand...

Ya, it was more than I wanted to try and explain. But it has value in terms of why one should not choose adjacent channels.
 
To be fair one has to also report the type of shaw internet plan one is running. In my case it's the Internet 300 which means in both examples above I'm shy of the max rate. I also have unlimited data since we use Netflix and Prime and just cancelled our AppleTV subscription.

1723330764649.webp
 
1723335479380.webp

One of the few advantages of living in the city (Toronto). Of course this is what I use for my actual job, so it isn't exactly a luxury - the company pays for it, so when they need to wake me at any hour of the day or night, I will have a high quality connection and can fix whatever system problem is happening
 
DavidR8 said:
I’m hoping I can achieve better wifi speeds than this
Click to expand...

The sad truth is that providers know when you are testing your speed and optimize the results. Your real speeds are probably worse. Some suggestions:

Use the speed test website or the speed test app to directly measure your speed. Don't go through Shaw.

Using a VPN will affect your speed. Test your speed both with and without using a VPN.

Your home network might be configured to share your bandwidth unequally. You can usually assign priority to certain devices.

Direct wired can often be much faster than WiFi. But even then can be Ethernet cable limited (Cat III vs Cat6)

Other home devices can hog bandwidth. If your thermostat is doing a firmware update or your wife is streaming the men's breakdancing while you test, the test will be wrong.

To get a true test, disable your router and go direct with a computer and high speed cable.

Victoria is probably full of geeks in your area robbing you of your share.
 
DavidR8 said:
After working in my reconfigured shop I came to the conclusion that the configuration that worked on paper, didn’t work in reality.
So I spent the day moving the mill and lathe, swapping them into the spots previously occupied by my tablesaw and other woodworking machines.
Now I can easily access my saw which was previously a real bear to use.
The saw used to live along this wall and I would swing it out to use it. Problem was that I couldn’t get by the thing. Plus I had no way to use the dust collector so it made a hellacious mess.
So now the mill and lathe are on this wall.
680594b1a8c33d4b2c42fafdd3e918b5.jpg

68e0ae34c8a9b893f2c891b9bd5335ed.jpg
Click to expand...
I have several machines that weigh 3500# each so not interested in moving them once in position. I used my Autocad program to make a scale drawing of the shop and each machine. Mills were drawn with table at the 4 extreme positions. With space at a premium, when running a lathe and turning around there needed to be another machine or work table there. Lots to think about with each machine — lathe needs lots of room to the left of the headstock and enough room on the right to remove the tailstock. Mills need room off both ends of the table. A tool&cutter grinder needs operational access from front and both sides. V. bandsaw needs room to the right and H. bandsaw needs room both sides of the blade. I put a lot of thought into making this extra operational space useable for other operational space as well. I was very pleased at how well the plans worked out….. until I bought a 16” shaper. Back to Autocad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top