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DavidR8's shop shenanigans

There are ways to save substantially. If you do all the trenching, and install the correct size/grade of pipe for the electrical pull, you can easily save $1000.

I always recommend pulling in pipe rather than burying the cable directly. This leaves your options open. It is not code, but I bury a PT 2X6 on top of the pipe during the refill, as an added anti-digging measure. Cheap insurance.
Yup, I'd definitely do the work myself.
If push comes to shove and I have to move the service I may have shot myself in the foot as I built my lean-to over the area where the trench would have to go :(
And the gas line goes down that side of the garage as well...
 
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That's what I remembered David.

It is not code, but I bury a PT 2X6 on top of the pipe during the refill,

That is code here. Definitely a good thing. Conduit is easy to puncture with a backhoe, 2x6 is not so easy. Even with a huge excavator, you know when you hit a wooden plank.
 
I may have shot myself in the foot as I built my lean-to over the area where the trench would have to go

Alternative, from the pages of "it's not my job"

iu
 
Speaking of pipes to totally take this off topic, I need to join a few more iron pipes and corners and T's to finish off my airline on the compressor. I've used the white plumbers tape before for that. Any reason to perhaps use some sort of material in a tube or jar and if so has anyone a link to that sort of stuff?
 
Speaking of pipes to totally take this off topic, I need to join a few more iron pipes and corners and T's to finish off my airline on the compressor. I've used the white plumbers tape before for that. Any reason to perhaps use some sort of material in a tube or jar and if so has anyone a link to that sort of stuff?
I have a jar of pipe dope if you want some.
 
If you're changing the trusses and trenching the wiring what about raising the roof for clearance? Should be able to add an extra foot or two(?) to make swinging around 8" pieces of stuff easier. Yes there will be a cost but may not add that much, maybe.
 
I have a jar of pipe dope if you want some.
Thank you. But before I take you up on that is it any better than just using the white teflon tape. I have the yellow which is used for natural gas but I don't want to use that for just compressed air.
 
If you're changing the trusses and trenching the wiring what about raising the roof for clearance? Should be able to add an extra foot or two(?) to make swinging around 8" pieces of stuff easier. Yes there will be a cost but may not add that much, maybe.
I'm definitely going to make it actually 8' interior but I have to see what my builder thinks is feasible without invoking the wrath of the authorities.
 
Thank you. But before I take you up on that is it any better than just using the white teflon tape. I have the yellow which is used for natural gas but I don't want to use that for just compressed air.
I have found that teflon tape did noting to prevent leaks in the compressed air fittings I assembled so I re-did them all with pipe dope.
 
I have found that teflon tape did noting to prevent leaks in the compressed air fittings I assembled so I re-did them all with pipe dope.
Well in that case may I stop by in the next day or so and borrow the jar. Or just send me a link to what type to buy. Thanks.
 
After talking with my contractor we've stepped away from the pre-built truss idea.
Preliminary plan is to re-use the existing roof joists as the bottom chord, raise the beam so that the top of it is level with the top of the joists and then stick frame in the rafters with collar ties.
Currently the beams rest on top of the beam. Doing it this way I would have about 3 1/2" of beam poking through the drywall.

Something like this.
Screenshot 2024-07-23 at 11.50.51 AM.jpeg
 
Not too many years ago we re-roofed my friend Rick's industrial bay - 22' X 40' with gambrel scissors trusses for a second floor space, 21 trusses at $128 each, delivered. With my normal crew this would have been about 2 weeks work. We did all the work him and me, with his son helping, total cost including shingles and hardy board siding was just over 18K.

In Calgary if you replace a flat roof with a truss roof like this you don't need a building permit(!!) :eek:
 
Not too many years ago we re-roofed my friend Rick's industrial bay - 22' X 40' with gambrel scissors trusses for a second floor space, 21 trusses at $128 each, delivered. With my normal crew this would have been about 2 weeks work. We did all the work him and me, with his son helping, total cost including shingles and hardy board siding was just over 18K.

In Calgary if you replace a flat roof with a truss roof like this you don't need a building permit(!!) :eek:
Trusses here are slightly more expensive :D at ~$269/ea delivered.
 
Popped in to see @DavidR8 today to borrow his bottle of pipe thread sealant. Got a tour of his new little add on shed for compressor and sawdust system. Very very nice.
And then all the 3D printed drawer organizers. Makes my drawers look like a bomb hit it. The gridwork behind all his organizer trays reminded me of a wall system and also an under desk and table system for keeping wires under control.

The You Tuber is a British woman who actually appears to know what she's talking about aside from the fact that she's also nice to look at.

 
Popped in to see @DavidR8 today to borrow his bottle of pipe thread sealant. Got a tour of his new little add on shed for compressor and sawdust system. Very very nice.
And then all the 3D printed drawer organizers. Makes my drawers look like a bomb hit it. The gridwork behind all his organizer trays reminded me of a wall system and also an under desk and table system for keeping wires under control.

The You Tuber is a British woman who actually appears to know what she's talking about aside from the fact that she's also nice to look at.

This is that one for organizing under the desk. All the wires and cables.
 
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