Nice trick to dial in the 4 jaw! Never saw that before! Way better than using the tailstock alone.
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Darren's active projects
- Thread starter Darren
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Nice trick to dial in the 4 jaw! Never saw that before! Way better than using the tailstock alone.
Trouble is that I never took a shop class......
So for me it's a new trick.
I wonder what shop class would be like today now that they don't even have machines in the schools anymore.
Got er drilled and tapped for 9/16 8tpi LH Acme. Looks like I nailed the height pretty good. The old nut was super worn, so I had to measure the machine and do math stuff.
As you can see, it's a bit longer. I'm going to split it partway and add an adjustment screw for the future owner. The fit on the unworn threads is excellent, so the cheap Chinese tap I used did better than expected.
As you can see, it's a bit longer. I'm going to split it partway and add an adjustment screw for the future owner. The fit on the unworn threads is excellent, so the cheap Chinese tap I used did better than expected.
I was a bit leary of using a cheap tap, but it actually worked very well. Used plenty of oil and reversed the lathe every few turns. No issues.
I wanted to tap the nut first so i can control the fit when i make the screw. 9/16-8 Acme, especially LH, is such an oddball thread. Most charts don't list it. Screws and nuts aren't available.
I wanted to tap the nut first so i can control the fit when i make the screw. 9/16-8 Acme, especially LH, is such an oddball thread. Most charts don't list it. Screws and nuts aren't available.
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More progress today. Seemed more appropriate to use my SM1660 , to fix the SM1120, instead of the Emco. Also threading is sooo much nicer on the 1660.
Took quite a few passes since I didn't heave room for the follow rest. It worked out great after several spring passes.
Re-reamed the original shaft at .374", rather than .3125, turned a .375 x 1" long spigot on the end of the new screw and pressed them together with Loctite sleeve retainer for lube. It was a tight fit and required some heat to seat fully.
The interface:
Somebody someday might wonder how they threaded tis shaft back then:
All assembled. The fit between the nut and threads is way better than I expected. Zero play but threads on very smooth. Final fitting was done with 600 grit and scotchbrite.
Took quite a few passes since I didn't heave room for the follow rest. It worked out great after several spring passes.
Re-reamed the original shaft at .374", rather than .3125, turned a .375 x 1" long spigot on the end of the new screw and pressed them together with Loctite sleeve retainer for lube. It was a tight fit and required some heat to seat fully.
The interface:
Somebody someday might wonder how they threaded tis shaft back then:
All assembled. The fit between the nut and threads is way better than I expected. Zero play but threads on very smooth. Final fitting was done with 600 grit and scotchbrite.
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You have a mean streak you know! LMAO!
What became of this one?
big project, too busy in the summer with camp every weekend, so its on the backburner till winter. I'm in the painting stage though. All the bodywork on the main casting is done. There's a lot more to a 10ee than you might thinks.
I follow Keith on Youtube. I will be watching his two 10ee builds as they progress for sure.
Thankfully mine is a motor/generator setup, which should still work fine. I saw it work when I bought it. Earlier i converted the AC motor that spins the generator from 3 phase to single phase. So i don't really need to update much of the electrical, except the main contactor which starts the generator.
I'm familiar with the setup that he is going to be using, and the guy on PM who is always spouting off about it. Thankfully I don't think I will have to go down that road. I can't stand reading his posts...
Thankfully mine is a motor/generator setup, which should still work fine. I saw it work when I bought it. Earlier i converted the AC motor that spins the generator from 3 phase to single phase. So i don't really need to update much of the electrical, except the main contactor which starts the generator.
I'm familiar with the setup that he is going to be using, and the guy on PM who is always spouting off about it. Thankfully I don't think I will have to go down that road. I can't stand reading his posts...
I have to rebuild the boom cylinders on my excavator. I tried loosening the gland nuts with a normal hook spanner, but they wouldn't budge. So I made this wrench.
That's the gland nut with its 4 notches.
Started with a 4.5x4.5x0.75" plate
Bored a 3.2"ish hole on the lathe, then gripped it on the bore and knocked the corners off.
I notched it for the cylinder shaft and drilled and tapped the 4 corners for 3/8 bolts to engage the notches.
Test fit was good.
Welded a handle to beat on.
After a couple hits with the 4lb mini sledge.
Now I can rebuild the cylinder.
Always fun making tools when they work!
That's the gland nut with its 4 notches.
Started with a 4.5x4.5x0.75" plate
Bored a 3.2"ish hole on the lathe, then gripped it on the bore and knocked the corners off.
I notched it for the cylinder shaft and drilled and tapped the 4 corners for 3/8 bolts to engage the notches.
Test fit was good.
Welded a handle to beat on.
After a couple hits with the 4lb mini sledge.
Now I can rebuild the cylinder.
Always fun making tools when they work!
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I will remember this trick.
Although I don't recall any spanner recesses on even one of my many cylinders. I suppose if push came to shove I could machine some in place. Even shallow drilled holes should work.
I seem to make more tools for weird disassembly jobs than anything else I do on my machines. Everything from specialized roll pin pushers, extractors, to drivers and special wrenches. Why is disassembly always such a challenge?