Daily Shop Improvement

[Chicken lights]

Where did you find that part? is it a wrench holder? If you can get a cad file or maybe the .STL file then changes could be made to it. You can PM it to me if you can locate it. Otherwise it would have to be drawn up from scratch.

It was part of the kit I bought, they sell different assortments related to what drawers you’re trying to organize. I got the wrench assortment they have others for sockets or ratchets etc

How long (roughly) would it take to draw up? I could mail you one if that’s easiest

 

[YYCHM]

It was part of the kit I bought, they sell different assortments related to what drawers you’re trying to organize. I got the wrench assortment they have others for sockets or ratchets etc

How long (roughly) would it take to draw up? I could mail you one if that’s easiest

Hey David,

Poke around on the website https://www.thingiverse.com/ You'll probably find something close to what you're after.

Craig

 

[Tom O]

I made a test piece for a Bridgeport knee handle that I measured months ago it looks good but the hole is 1/2” and I need to open it to 5/8” to try the fit. There’s no hurry though they still have 3 teeth on theirs.

 

[Marc Moreau]

Nice part.

 

[Tom O]

Thanks

 

[deleted_user]

It is a Beaver scroll saw/die filer combo. Made in Ontario somewhere, I think Guelph, with real cast iron?
The machine came configured to work as both saw and die filer. A $20 Kijiji find from Brantford. I might be selling it later this year.....

The toilet I am keeping, one of the best additions to to shop

Gerrit

@gerritv did you ever use the Beaver scroll saw as a die filer?

I had a modern smaller scroll saw and did not use it enough so I sold it. I see a beaver scroll saw for sale that would make a good restoration project, but it is 24" model and takes up space. It may be worth keeping if the saw actually proves useful as a die filer. While they say it can be used with files, their manual is thin on info and implies use for wood only.

I've been looking at actual die filer casting kits as an option and cant decide which way to go

 

[PeterT]

I've made a number of filing gadgets for my scroll saws. The older pin blade style allowed a few more mounting options over the current/predominant pin-less quick change style. Scroll saws vary in their blade clamping mechanism so if you want to flip back & forth between blade mode & file mode without too much setup fuss, then either the holder or file part has to accommodate. In the end I found them to be 'meh' & that was limited to light work (wood, composites, light gage metal). The stroke length is limited. The table/hole may limit files to smaller X-sections. Clamping & supporting the underside can be pita. I'm not too familiar with scroll actions but I seem to recall not all are axial? They either have a slight rock as a byproduct of the arm layout or maybe that's by design to assist with cutting. Anyways, I think filers are intended to be more axial. Personally I think putting effort into a dedicated die filer would be better time spent, especially if the clamp mechanism can accommodate off the shelf files with no or limited modification.

I've seen some nice bar stock filer ideas. With a speed controlled motor it would be a nice to have hobby tool. OTOH a belt sander will do a large part of any external surface work within the limits of the belt/platten, arguably a lot faster & comparable finish / accuracy over power filing. The filer would come in handy for internal profiling & utilizing all the available shapes & tooth cutting styles of files. I could see some design improvement in the holder mechanism would pay dividends so it can still support top & bottom of file vs cantilever & not rely on dedicated files. Bonus points would be nice to grip any kind of file tapered or combination profiled file, but the holder would have to accommodate that.

 

[deleted_user]

I've made a number of filing gadgets for my scroll saws. The older pin blade style allowed a few more mounting options over the current/predominant pin-less quick change style. Scroll saws vary in their blade clamping mechanism so if you want to flip back & forth between blade mode & file mode without too much setup fuss, then either the holder or file part has to accommodate. In the end I found them to be 'meh' & that was limited to light work (wood, composites, light gage metal). The stroke length is limited. The table/hole may limit files to smaller X-sections. Clamping & supporting the underside can be pita. I'm not too familiar with scroll actions but I seem to recall not all are axial? They either have a slight rock as a byproduct of the arm layout or maybe that's by design to assist with cutting. Anyways, I think filers are intended to be more axial. Personally I think putting effort into a dedicated die filer would be better time spent, especially if the clamp mechanism can accommodate off the shelf files with no or limited modification.

I've seen some nice bar stock filer ideas. With a speed controlled motor it would be a nice to have hobby tool. OTOH a belt sander will do a large part of any external surface work within the limits of the belt/platten, arguably a lot faster & comparable finish / accuracy over power filing. The filer would come in handy for internal profiling & utilizing all the available shapes & tooth cutting styles of files. I could see some design improvement in the holder mechanism would pay dividends so it can still support top & bottom of file vs cantilever & not rely on dedicated files. Bonus points would be nice to grip any kind of file tapered or combination profiled file, but the holder would have to accommodate that.

Yeah I suspected as much on the suitability... I need more internal filing capability. I'll likely go with the casting kit from MLAtoolbox. It's completely enclosed drive mechanism, tilting bed and 1" stroke length.

I'll still buy the saw to restore... and then send it to brother's basement.

 

[Chris Cramer]

It was part of the kit I bought, they sell different assortments related to what drawers you’re trying to organize. I got the wrench assortment they have others for sockets or ratchets etc

How long (roughly) would it take to draw up? I could mail you one if that’s easiest

It shouldn't be too difficult to design something like that with fusion or solid works based off of the location you would place it in your shop, as well as the size and shapes of the tools you want to place in the assortment. IMO I would rather design the assortment myself, because it gives you more freedom to change the components within the whole design. That setup you have with all the wrench assortments gave me a good idea of how I should use the top of my tool box rather than the way I have things stacked on top.

 

[Former Member]

ER fixture for tightening collets (this one is er40).

Now I can get the torque required


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made something similar just recently for two different sized R8 holders both for ER32's

 

[Janger]

I made a test piece for a Bridgeport knee handle that I measured months ago it looks good but the hole is 1/2” and I need to open it to 5/8” to try the fit. There’s no hurry though they still have 3 teeth on theirs.

View attachment 18339
View attachment 18338

Hi @Tom O , DId you CNC this one or hand bomb it on the rotary table?

 

[Tom O]

Hi @Tom O , DId you CNC this one or hand bomb it on the rotary table?

Hi @Tom O , DId you CNC this one or hand bomb it on the rotary table?

It was done on the CNC I did drill it out and it fits good.

 

[Marc Moreau]

Good idea and nice job look very strong.

 

[Chicken lights]

Fixin’ chicken lights today I picked up a new battery charger. It works but it makes the lights blink, for some reason. The older style just had them stay on solid.
Wonder what the difference in the electronics is?

 

[Susquatch]

View attachment 22612Fixin’ chicken lights today I picked up a new battery charger. It works but it makes the lights blink, for some reason. The older style just had them stay on solid.
Wonder what the difference in the electronics is?

Just guessing here as I'd need much more detail or hands on.

But is it possible that the lights are just reflecting duty cycle? They would stay on when charging a discharged battery, but flicker when the battery gets close to full charge.

Most battery chargers put out a variable current full time that reflects the charge current needed. But some only send out a full charge current but turn it off and on to achieve lower charge currents on average.

Just a guess assuming it isn't broken.

 

[Chicken lights]

Just guessing here as I'd need much more detail or hands on.

But is it possible that the lights are just reflecting duty cycle? They would stay on when charging a discharged battery, but flicker when the battery gets close to full charge.

Most battery chargers put out a variable current full time that reflects the charge current needed. But some only send out a full charge current but turn it off and on to achieve lower charge currents on average.

Just a guess assuming it isn't broken.

It’s acting exactly like there is a flasher built into the circuit, steady one second on, one second off.

It’s possible the charger isn’t seeing the load necessary to charge a battery bank, sensing no load, shutting off, then retrying one second later, on an endless loop

It’s a definite on, pause, off, pause, on, pause, off cycle repeat

 

[Susquatch]

I'm still leaning toward a duty cycle type charge.

Try it on a depleted battery if you have one, and also a fully charged battery.

What is the voltage on the battery doing while this happens?

 

[jcdammeyer]

Back in the day it was a simple transformer with selenium rectifier and once the battery reached the desired voltage it limited the input current to the trickle charge.
Things have changed. Having developed both Sealed Lead Acid and Lithium chargers and worked with COTS units all I can say is it depends...

One way to do it is to use the Bulk, Absorption, Float model. The charger may apply something like 14.8V and check the current and what the voltage drops to as current limit cuts in. So say it's a 30A charger with the voltage set to 14.8V. If the battery is really flat then it will draw 30A pulling the voltage down to 12V or even less. As the battery fills up in the Bulk state it reaches a point where the 14.8V is reached and the current starts to drop off. This is the Absorption stage and the voltage is held at 14.8V until current drops below a certain point. Say that's 1A. That may take longer than the bulk state. Once the 1A is reached the charger drops back to Float lowering the voltage to something like 13.85V and now the battery can sit like this 24/7.

Where it gets interesting is if the battery is also connected to an inverter for a full time connected UPS system. The UPS can handle 13.85 or 14.8V but the charger now much track how much current goes into the battery and how much feeds the load so it knows when to cut back to 13.85V so the battery isn't overcharged.

Often during the Absorption state the voltage isn't fixed as much as it's adjusted to keep the current into the battery (and load) at a certain point up to that maximum voltage.

So back to the question. If the charger applies 14.8V and sees current at 200mA for the LEDs then it says batteries are past the bulk and absorption charge point. At that point it might also disconnect the charger and measure the system voltage to see if instead it's a battery that won't take a charge even if it's dead flat. It might do that once per second since it may not be smart enough to do it 3x and then stop.

Way back in 2012 the ONAN generator was on the outside of my office window. The batteries, chargers, controllers and load were in the office on a rather temporary setup.

 

[historicalarms]

my old chargers could be hooked direct to a light circuit to test with no problem at all but the new charger (about 3 yrs old) needs a battery between the charger & circuit to work...even can be a dead battery as long as its 12 volt.
Don't know the reason why or if it will help you Dave, good luck.

 

[ShawnR]

I think if the charger is an inverter type, then the led's might not draw enough. Try putting an incandescent light (old headlamp, 1157 bulb?) across the connections to the led bar, see if that resolves it. Like computer supplies, iirc, there needs to be a min draw for the inverter to work. In a battery charging application, the battery sinks enough current to satisfy that.

Guessing...