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D. Gray D&D - HEAVY DUTY KNURLING TOOL KIT

First bit of turning done....

Swivels4.JPG


Need two of these.

Swivels2.JPG


This was my setup for getting the shoulder length right. This and the carriage stop.

Swivels3.JPG


This looked kind of iffy to me, but was ok taking 10 thou doc passes.

Swivels5.JPG


Fits the side plates like so but with the top half milled off.
 
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A bit of a fitment test reveals...

FitTest1.JPG


The swivel shoulder is a tad too wide. I measured 0.026" above what the plans call for. Need to do something about that before milling the top half off.

Had a bit of a shock when I discovered the knurling wheels fit rather loosely on the 1/4" tool steel wheel axle provided. The wheel ID's look to measure 0.261" (6.63mm)o_O

@Aliva did yours fit like that as well
 
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Had a bit of a shock when I discovered the knurling wheels fit rather loosely on the 1/4" tool steel wheel axle provided. The wheel ID's look to measure 0.261" (6.63mm)o_O
Have you checked with Doug Gray? Maybe the wheels you got aren't quite up to snuff.

Craig
(Maybe we could entice him to drop in here from time to time?)
 
Maybe the wheels you got aren't quite up to snuff.
Exactly- you don't want to re-size the axle to fit bad wheels.

How many sets of wheels are included with the kit?
You'll likely want several sets (different patterns and TPI) eventually so having a tool that will accept off-the-shelf wheels will be important.
LMS wheels are $6USD a pair.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2972
I just measured a couple of my LittleMachineShop knurler wheels - the bore is .252. Slightly wobbly fit on the axle, which is likely what I'd want...but not .010 oversize.
Axle is just under .250 - I just measured the end and it was .248.
BTW, The LMS wheels are .373 a.k.a. 3/8" wide.
 
Exactly- you don't want to re-size the axle to fit bad wheels.

How many sets of wheels are included with the kit?
You'll likely want several sets (different patterns and TPI) eventually so having a tool that will accept off-the-shelf wheels will be important.
LMS wheels are $6USD a pair.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2972
I just measured a couple of my LittleMachineShop knurler wheels - the bore is .252. Slightly wobbly fit on the axle, which is likely what I'd want...but not .010 oversize.
Axle is just under .250 - I just measured the end and it was .248.
BTW, The LMS wheels are .373 a.k.a. 3/8" wide.

I'm waiting for @Aliva to respond before contacting D. Gray.

I like dealing with LMS but don't like what they charge for shipping. KBC sells knurling wheels as well.
 
I like dealing with LMS but don't like what they charge for shipping. KBC sells knurling wheels as well.
I've bought several times from LMS. I agree the shipping is expensive. But, it seems to me (and I've done a bit of checking) that LMS is simply passing on the cost of shipping via USPS or courier.
KBC- 5x the price, plus excessive shipping costs.. Not an option for me.
 
@PeterT The cotter pin is for tightening/loosening the tap handle adjustment. It binds a bit in places. I usually remove it when tapping.

I thought it balanced the handle considering the speed in which Craig works. Like the way the cotter pin is split nearer the bottom so that Craig won't loose it. LOL Time for bed me thinks.

This is really funny @YYCHM . Thanks for the laugh! Those F#&$@g things always stick and bind and come loose too.

I typically use a small punch or a junk Philips screwdriver. Most people throw them away after the tip gets mangled. My bride is a professional screwdriver tip mangler. I scoop them, grind the tip to a point like an awl (they are usually already pretty pointy) and then put them in a special drawer to be used for times like this and other tasks.

I like your multipurpose cotter pin thingy dingy - balance, tool keeper, torque wrench (bends when proper torque is reached), aesthetic enhancer device......
 
A bit of a fitment test reveals...

View attachment 25633

The swivel shoulder is a tad too wide. I measured 0.026" above what the plans call for. Need to do something about that before milling the top half off.

Had a bit of a shock when I discovered the knurling wheels fit rather loosely on the 1/4" tool steel wheel axle provided. The wheel ID's look to measure 0.261" (6.63mm)o_O

@Aliva did yours fit like that as well
Yes mine were also sloppy. I would have thought the fit should be tighter. I inadvertently ordered a metric kit so I attributed some of the clearance's to metric imperial conversion.. I have other knurler wheels but the axel bore is too large for the kits axel. I'd have to make a couple of stepped axels in order to use them , and I'd have to disassemble one side in order to fit the larger axel. I did purchase some 12mm HSS rod so I may do it in the future.
 
Nothing too exciting today.....

SPin (3).JPG


Two spacer pins.

SPin (1).JPG


Pins are tapped 10-24. Plans called for two bind holes but I drilled all the way through and tapped from one end. I hate tapping blind holes. @Dusty Note that my finely tuned speed balancer is removed;) No tap casualties today:p

SPin (2).JPG


Turning the shoulders.

SPin (4).JPG


The pins fit the arm plates like so.
 
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Two wheel pins....

WheelPins.JPG


Nothing special here..... Just cut to length and add the two recesses.

Next up hinge pins. Yuck... more tapping...

It's sad when you plan order of operations based on which you are most likely to sc.w up on:rolleyes:
 
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Yes mine were also sloppy. I would have thought the fit should be tighter. I inadvertently ordered a metric kit so I attributed some of the clearance's to metric imperial conversion.. I have other knurler wheels but the axel bore is too large for the kits axel. I'd have to make a couple of stepped axels in order to use them , and I'd have to disassemble one side in order to fit the larger axel. I did purchase some 12mm HSS rod so I may do it in the future.

Did you glue your arm plates together in pairs and gang drill/ream them as one per the build notes? Using my mill DRO on each plate, I ended up with one spacer pin hole that was out by a smidge and had to re-drill the two arms spacer pin holes as a pair.
 
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