Nope, I don't ever recall that. But through the years it always was on a live circuit.On my Lathe , when you power it up , in my case by plugging it in and turning on the circuit breaker in my garage panel , you hear a click and the light on the front panel illuminates . the click is the main contactor .
Hi Gordie,
I have not electrical test equipment, or knowledge. I will pull the fuse and closely examine it. I think you are seeing a reflection... I hope you are right.
Also note that the spndle is free, no binding, no sign of blue smoke or decolorization. The inside of the box looks very clean. The connectors going form the power in are not smoked.
+1@TorontoBuilder is spot on with his advice, but you will need a multimeter at a minimum.... go get yourself a decent multimeter for Christmas and learn how to use it, get one with capacitance measuring capability
Nothing has been broken. I will be putting a new controller into the 1440 soon also. It is in transit now from California. I also need to fix the limit switches on the Supra Mill. I have been running it with no switches connected after it got it's new control 6 months ago. The reason they needed new controls is that the old ones were 32 bit and don't work properly with modern computers. All the 32 bit computers I had are history.Hi there. Aburg is just over an hour from me (I'm on Lake Erie south of Chatham). I do have the electrical equipment and I know how to use it.
I'm about ready to start plowing here so I won't be able to help for a week or so. Then it's Christmas. But if I understand your situation, you are in no hurry.
@TorontoBuilder is spot on with his advice, but you will need a multimeter at a minimum. I'm actually quite surprised to see you doing all that CNC stuff without basic electrical capabilities. That's impressive. My advice is to go get yourself a decent multimeter for Christmas and learn how to use it. I think you might find the trip so easy that you will wonder why you didn't do it before. If I could be so bold about spending your money (which all of us on here do quite well), get one with capacitance measuring capability while you are at it - or make yourself a circuit to do it using the current or voltage readouts on your new meter.
what, no temperatureManual-Ranging Digital Multimeter, 6000 Counts Electrical Tester AC/DC Voltage Current Detector, NCV, Resistance, Capacitance, Diode Electronic, Duty Cycle Tester, 2.7 Inch LCD T28C https://a.co/d/9wz16dc
I have that amazon one, it's no Klein or fluke, but it does work, and it's only like 40$
Is it not possible to just put a larger motor on, possibly up to 5 HP single phase up to 20 amps? and simply have the lever turn it on and off. Why does it need all the electronics? Could the frame support more HP? The ability to take larger cuts. Just shooting this out there....
what, no temperature![]()
It's to test various sensors , ........ lets say , an engine temp sensor , or a thermal switch so you can visually see when the trigger point is . An example is bench testing , an infra red thermometer requires a set of hands that may not be free , or testing a thermister while observing an ohm reading with a second multimeter at the same time as using a heat source to check the device through it's operating range .It has a temperature sensor IIRC....although I don't know what the point of a temp sensor on a multimeter is
to read temperatures, duhIt has a temperature sensor IIRC....although I don't know what the point of a temp sensor on a multimeter is
It's to test various sensors , ........ lets say , an engine temp sensor , or a thermal switch so you can visually see when the trigger point is . An example is bench testing , an infra red thermometer requires a set of hands that may not be free , or testing a thermister while observing an ohm reading with a second multimeter at the same time as using a heat source to check the device through it's operating range .
that's a good deal then.It has a temperature sensor IIRC....although I don't know what the point of a temp sensor on a multimeter is
I mean the one that makes it go forward or reverse. On the 1440, there is a VFD on the 3 phase. I still use the gears because on the old style controller, did not even know it was variable. Would it be simpler to just put a 3HP 3 phase with the VFD converter on and simply a switch for forward and reverse, Maybe the Main on and off also?What lever do you refer to?
Pic please.
Now you're going to get a bunch of people going toss all that crap and just install a drum switch, but that is a set back in time to the 1950s.
I dont think I'd put more than 3 hp on that lathe. They're not know for quality and strength of the head stock castings nor are their gears hardened