Craftex CT043 old style

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
I mean the one that makes it go forward or reverse. On the 1440, there is a VFD on the 3 phase. I still use the gears because on the old style controller, did not even know it was variable. Would it be simpler to just put a 3HP 3 phase with the VFD converter on and simply a switch for forward and reverse, Maybe the Main on and off also?
so back to this:
Is it not possible to just put a larger motor on, possibly up to 5 HP single phase up to 20 amps? and simply have the lever turn it on and off. Why does it need all the electronics? Could the frame support more HP? The ability to take larger cuts. Just shooting this out there....

The answer is not really.

Because that lever activates interlocked micro-switches that control the low voltage going to the two interlocked contactors... this is a safety feature.

Now in my conversion I simply removed the existing control wiring and then wired the two interlocked spindle direction micro-switches up to the Forward, Reverse and common ports on my new VFD instead.

You cannot wire 220 volts to those switches as if they were a high voltage drum switch.

So no. Not how you intend
 

Matt-Aburg

Ultra Member
so back to this:


The answer is not really.

Because that lever activates interlocked micro-switches that control the low voltage going to the two interlocked contactors... this is a safety feature.

Now in my conversion I simply removed the existing control wiring and then wired the two interlocked spindle direction micro-switches up to the Forward, Reverse and common ports on my new VFD instead.

You cannot wire 220 volts to those switches as if they were a high voltage drum switch.

So no. Not how you intend
Ok, so we are now on the same page. For this conversion, you would need 3 phase 3HP motor 1750 rpm, 5 HP capable VFD to convert the single phase to 3 phase and control the switches, Transformer for lower voltage??? Is there such a board already as a standard part? (so it could be contained in the back of the existing box). Also requires main on an Estop. (in existing location)..
 

phaxtris

(Ryan)
Premium Member
Premium Member
Ok, so we are now on the same page. For this conversion, you would need 3 phase 3HP motor 1750 rpm, 5 HP capable VFD to convert the single phase to 3 phase and control the switches, Transformer for lower voltage??? Is there such a board already as a standard part? (so it could be contained in the back of the existing box). Also requires main on an Estop. (in existing location)..

you don't need a transformer for lower voltage? 208-240v 3ph motors are common in Canada, just look for one of them
 

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
Ok, so we are now on the same page. For this conversion, you would need 3 phase 3HP motor 1750 rpm, 5 HP capable VFD to convert the single phase to 3 phase and control the switches, Transformer for lower voltage??? Is there such a board already as a standard part? (so it could be contained in the back of the existing box). Also requires main on an Estop. (in existing location)..
Let me get you my minimum list of materials and preferred layout.

I'd move the control box right off the lathe and use aviation plus for the few wires going to the box, but you'd likely want just a bigger box accessible and on the lathe, unless you put the VFD outside the control box. That requires some idea for strain relief on the wiring
 

Matt-Aburg

Ultra Member
Let me get you my minimum list of materials and preferred layout.

I'd move the control box right off the lathe and use aviation plus for the few wires going to the box, but you'd likely want just a bigger box accessible and on the lathe, unless you put the VFD outside the control box. That requires some idea for strain relief on the wiring
Simple is best. Are you suggesting to leave busy bee's box alone and mount on top?
 

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
Simple is best. Are you suggesting to leave busy bee's box alone and mount on top?
It depends. The BB box is too small to house a VFD inside.

BUT if you move the VFD outside the box and have a suitable mount and strain relief that will work. In my case I just went with whole new box mounted on the outside of the head stock stand, and put everything inside that..
 

Matt-Aburg

Ultra Member
It depends. The BB box is too small to house a VFD inside.

BUT if you move the VFD outside the box and have a suitable mount and strain relief that will work. In my case I just went with whole new box mounted on the outside of the head stock stand, and put everything inside that..
Do you have a photo of it? So you removed their electrical box, and put on a larger one?
 

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
Sadly I did not take a bunch of pics of the control box layout... such an idiot I know.

I have a playlist of 7 videos, but I dont show the electrical cabinet.

The closest I have is a sketch from preliminary layout in fusion... I had so much room I decided to downsize to smaller cabinet. The outline of the larger cabinet is shown in blue, the smaller cabinet back panel in grey. I used a BUD Industries SNB-3736 Series SNB Steel NEMA 4 enclosure. 15.75" L x 11.81" W x 7.87" H


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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Do you have a photo of it? So you removed their electrical box, and put on a larger one?

I never ever in a million years thought I would ever say this to anyone else, but I think you have too many projects on the go at once.

I'm a fan of fluke meters, but I agree with @phaxtris - that meter on amazon should do you fine without breaking the bank till you are comfy with multimeters. Please don't use the amps functions until you know more about how to use it. If I had a buck for every meter somebody destroyed using the amps feature incorrectly, I'd be a rich man.
 

Matt-Aburg

Ultra Member
I never ever in a million years thought I would ever say this to anyone else, but I think you have too many projects on the go at once.

I'm a fan of fluke meters, but I agree with @phaxtris - that meter on amazon should do you fine without breaking the bank till you are comfy with multimeters. Please don't use the amps functions until you know more about how to use it. If I had a buck for every meter somebody destroyed using the amps feature incorrectly, I'd be a rich man.
I am used to multitasking..... comes from the mold trade.. Keeps me up at night !!! I have to make a list and cross it out as I go..................
 

Gearhead88

Super User
Sadly I did not take a bunch of pics of the control box layout... such an idiot I know.

I have a playlist of 7 videos, but I dont show the electrical cabinet.

The closest I have is a sketch from preliminary layout in fusion... I had so much room I decided to downsize to smaller cabinet. The outline of the larger cabinet is shown in blue, the smaller cabinet back panel in grey. I used a BUD Industries SNB-3736 Series SNB Steel NEMA 4 enclosure. 15.75" L x 11.81" W x 7.87" H


View attachment 28816

This is the first time I've watched the video of the electrical updates , nice , I like it BUT ......... that is a loud ass lathe !!!! , you sold it right ?
 

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
This is the first time I've watched the video of the electrical updates , nice , I like it BUT ......... that is a loud ass lathe !!!! , you sold it right ?
It has been sold.

It was not as loud as you think.. the condenser mike on my phone had a lot to do with the sound, and the gears needed lubrication because I'd wiped them all dry when I got tired of getting grease on all my shirts when I was working on it with the cover off
 
Check the connector block on the motor, they tend to go on occasion. I likely have a spare motor from the mill I could part with, it got replaced with VFD. To be fair the contact block has been changed which started the progression to VFD.
 
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