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Tool CFM
- Thread starter Doggggboy
- Start date
Tool
Cool!Thanks for the tip.
1967 Datsun Fairlady roadster.
This is not mine
I’ve only seen pictures, I was imagining something like a classic Z car. Those are a Datsun classic, you’re going to enjoy summer evenings when you’re done.
Keep us up to date as you make progress.
D
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
Thanks.Cool!
I’ve only seen pictures, I was imagining something like a classic Z car. Those are a Datsun classic, you’re going to enjoy summer evenings when you’re done.
Keep us up to date as you make progress.
D
Hopefully progress will be faster than it was when I started 25 years ago.
VicHobbyGuy
Ultra Member
It took me a while to learn this- it's the beginners (like me) that need the good quality tools. A pro can 'make do' if necessary, but I need all the help I can get.
I started with a cheap gun and the results weren't good. (This was spraying guitars and then, some years later, kayaks - not cars.) I now have a couple of Walcom guns and the difference is easy to see. Not cheap, but not SATA prices either. WoodEssence in SK sells them - I've bought a lot of stuff from him- and I have seen them on eBay as well. For shooting primer I'd probably use someting cheaper with a bigger nozzle.
VicHobbyGuy
Ultra Member
I agree. 2k paints are fantastic but a bit scary - and they can affect your eyes as well, apparently.
HobbyAir is what I use - available from Aircraft Spruce Canada. If you are spraying in your garage (not a spray booth with good ventilation) a hood is better than a mask, even with the fresh air supply from the HobbyAir.
VicHobbyGuy
Ultra Member
BTW, if you buy name-brand spray equi;ment, you can always re-sell it after your project is done. My guess is that you will find other things to paint once you have the skill - and the leftovers. 
Re-paint the wheelbarrow to match the car, etc....
Re-paint the wheelbarrow to match the car, etc....
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
Buy once. Cry once.
I get it.
i also have a hobbyair like @VicHobbyGuy, although i bought myne through tcp global years ago, im unsure if they still carry it, it works well but you really have to watch that supply hose, its quite stiff and can ruin your day in a hurry if your nor careful. Sometimes the charcoal respirator is much easier to deal with imo, especially in a tight space like a garage painting something large like a car
most of my spray equipment i bought through tcp global, they, at the time, had the best prices i could find. Im not sure if thats the case these days, but its worth a look
isocyanates can definitely go through your eyes, goggles are a good precaution
most of my spray equipment i bought through tcp global, they, at the time, had the best prices i could find. Im not sure if thats the case these days, but its worth a look
isocyanates can definitely go through your eyes, goggles are a good precaution
Nice project! and nice work area! Keep you busy those long winter nights.
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
Not gonna lie, the thought of a gallon of Tremclad and a smooth roller has crossed my mind.For driving in SK. you may be overthinking the paint job. Order one of Janger's paint can spinners, go on a shopping spree in Cambodian Tire and stock up on your favorite color of rattle can and boom half way done.
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
Thanks.
I think my wife may be related to David_R8's.
She'd rather I spend money and time in the shop than the Vibank bar.
Can't disagree with that.
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Ha ha smart lady, your probably better off I have been to the Vibank bar many times even stayed there for a wedding one night. When I was underage, Odessa was an easy bar to get served far enough from home nobody recognized you Candiac was pretty lax too but small towns everybody knows everything. A friend of mine is rebuilding a 1 ton truck and has the cab up on the stand putting in plates and repairing rust, It was quite interesting he was showing me the improvements he has done and is doing in terms of fixing known flaws of poor water drainage causing the original rust but a huge undertaking and I admire anyone taking on these projects and seeing them through no matter the timeline.
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
Frame offs have a very low completion rate. When I started 25 years ago lots of people said it was a mistake. Better to start with a driver and build it back as you go. While I very much hope to complete it soon, I've gotta say, if I was going to do it again, I wouldn't do a frame off.
My wife is from Montmartre so Odessa and Vibank were fine but Candiac was too sketchy for some reason. Went to several weddings in the area 40 years ago.
Well to give you some inspiration, a friend of mine he will probably never say its "finished" was able to complete 99.5% done after 40+ years of doing nothing on it was 68 Merc Cougar and weird story he had taken in a guy he knew down on his luck was a mechanic but battled alcoholism, he slept in the garage in exchange for working and helping rebuild the cougar and working on the car helped keep him busy and they made great progress but as things dwindled down he started relapsing and unfortunately passed away in the spring after that my friend took time off and made finishing it a priority and it turned out beautiful. I have a car project that's been sitting in the garage for 10 years and right now have 0 inspiration to work on it so been thinking of selling it to make space in the garage.
My last name is Pander my grandfather settled south of Candiac and later was able to provide land to his sons in the Glenavon area, my 2 cousins are the only ones left on the farm and both are close to retire if not retired.
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
My old racing teamate used to paint cars/bikes on the side, and when he upgraded compressors he cave me his little ~30gal (I think?) CH oiless screamer. 12 years after he gave it to me, it's still going strong. But it painted quite a few cars and bikes before I got it. Barely adequate, but doable. He had oil/water separators and I think a dessicant dryer on the output, but kept them before gifting it to me.
Doggggboy
Ultra Member
Was at an Untereiner wedding nearly 40 years ago in Montmartre, I think, and one of the guests caused quite a stir among the CWL ladies with her dress. I think she was a Pander
I've seen some pretty nice, rolled on Tremclad car paint jobs! Key is in the thinning, and in not expecting it all to cover in one pass! The basic idea is to lay on a layer, the thinner allows it to wet out and flow level to the surface, rinse, repeat...
Not that different than staying on the wet edge of a sprayed paint job.
Based on spending some fair time in paint booths, I'm gonna bet that your compressor will be just fine, and like as not, you will run out of arm, before the compressor runs out of air.
Can't help you on picking a gun, other than pick one you can get parts and consumables for. Isn't PA carrying the AccuSpray line these days?
And whoever mentioned painting the wheelbarrow, was right on. Paint as many other projects as you can drag into a relatively clean area, so you get the feel for laying on a nice even layer of paint. Have seen more than one disaster in slow motion, too heavy a layer of paint, looks great, right up until it slides down the side of the work, and starts puddling on the floor... Aside from practice slinging paint, it'll get you looking at work flow, sequence of application, and stuff like that. Like, get the part clean, get it hung or propped in place, go around and do spot painting on all the inside corners, undercuts, and the like, so that you don't have to dick with those once you start laying on the 'pretty' coat.
Stick a panel of plywood in your paint area, pin or tape some Kraft Paper to it to use while setting up the gun. Do your fine tuning there, and you get to see clearly, how the paint fan is positioned and oriented. New sheet of paper as required. Set up a table for all your consumables, as well as your gun wash. Have a waste bucket there to squirt or dump the waste.
As to masking, mask "almost" to where you need it to be masked to, working fast. Put a last line of masking tape over the stuff you applied fast, and make THAT the "careful" line. Set that last line of tape up with a bunch of pull-tabs, so that once the paint is on, you can go around and pull that last line of tape off, while the paint is still wet. This allows the edge to roll over to a smooth transition, rather than leaving a sharp, scabby edge, or even ripping up sections of your paint when the tape gets pulled off after the paint is dry!
DPittman
Ultra Member
Ya know I did an old tractor with a roller and thinned out Tremclad and I was surprised how smooth and well it worked. Much better than the brush job I was doing beforehand. However I have not been impressed by how fast the paint oxidized and went chalky.