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Tool CFM

Tool
Doggggboy

Doggggboy

Ultra Member
I have an older Sanborn 60 gallon 500BPC60V single stage compressor.
Max tank pressure is 140psi and working pressure is 120-90.
I can't find any cfm specs on it anywhere and have had no luck online either.
I'm looking to start painting the Datsun this winter and the specs on the gun I plan on using says 13 cfm @ 20 psi maximum.
I'm trying to figure out if the Sanborn will handle this.
Any thoughts?
 
I expect that it's likely the same as most 60 gallon units; 10-11 cfm @ 90 psi and ~12 @40 psi. So if your gun needs 13cfm @20 psi you should be good.
Make sure you have a very good air drier in line.
 
Last edited:
David_R8 said:
I expect that it's likely the same as most 60 gallon units; 10-11 cfm @ 90 psi and ~12 @40 psi. So if your gun needs 13cfm @20 psi you should be good.
Make sure you have a very good air drier in line.
Click to expand...
Thanks David.
Air dryer and oil separator shopping as we speak.
 
Why don't you just test it? You could get close just by measuring the time it takes to reach various pressures and then plot the pressure curve. There will be a temperature effect but it should be small in comparison to the other factors. I'd guess that this approach would even be much better than relying on manufacturers claims. I don't remember the formula off hand, but it should be easy to find on-line.

Edit - I found an on-line calculator here. It calculates average cfm. But you should be able to use it by inputting the time for a range of final pressures.

fluidairedynamics.com

CFM Calculator for Compressed Air

Looking for a free and easy CFM calculator to determine how much compressed air your compressor is producing? Our online CFM calculator can help you properly size your air compressor and make sure you’ve got enough airflow to meet your compressed air demand. In this article, we are going to show...
fluidairedynamics.com fluidairedynamics.com
 
Susquatch said:
Why don't you just test it? You could get close just by measuring the time it takes to reach various pressures and then plot the pressure curve. There will be a temperature effect but it should be small in comparison to the other factors. I'd guess that this approach would even be much better than relying on manufacturers claims. I don't remember the formula off hand, but it should be easy to find on-line.

Edit - I found an on-line calculator here. It calculates average cfm. But you should be able to use it by inputting the time for a range of final pressures.

fluidairedynamics.com

CFM Calculator for Compressed Air

Looking for a free and easy CFM calculator to determine how much compressed air your compressor is producing? Our online CFM calculator can help you properly size your air compressor and make sure you’ve got enough airflow to meet your compressed air demand. In this article, we are going to show...
fluidairedynamics.com fluidairedynamics.com
Click to expand...
While I suspect David is correct I just want to be sure.
I mean, I can probably get 13 cfm from waving a palm leaf but I'm not going to get 20 psi doing that.
My leaf blower will give me 500cfm but again, not at 20 psi.
My Sanborn will give me 20 psi for days without cycling very often but I don't know at what cfm.
I can't find an affordable flow meter that will handle 13 cfm.
I have on old welding regulator that I thought might work but it tops out at 60 gallons per hour, just a bit shy of the 5800 gph that 13 cfm is.
The above calculator is not working for me.
I'm probably overthinking this as guys have been painting cars in the shop with shitty compressors as long as there have been cars and doing just fine.
 
Doggggboy said:
The above calculator is not working for me.
I'm probably overthinking this as guys have been painting cars in the shop with shitty compressors as long as there have been cars and doing just fine.
Click to expand...

Ya, I'd guess the gun will work fine.

But if you want to check your specs, give me your test curve. (psi vs time). I'll either do the math myself or figure out how to use the calculator. I prefer the latter.
 
It won't take very long to just do a test. Bleed your compressor tank down to 20psi. Pull the trigger on the gun and see if the compressor can keep up.
 
VicHobbyGuy said:
It won't take very long to just do a test. Bleed your compressor tank down to 20psi. Pull the trigger on the gun and see if the compressor can keep up.
Click to expand...
I did that from 100 to 120 with the blow gun feeding at 20 psi and it did just fine, but I'll try that starting at 20 in the tank.
Normally it takes 70 seconds from 100 to 120 and with the blow gun taking 20 psi it took 90 seconds.
 
Doggggboy said:
I did that from 100 to 120 with the blow gun feeding at 20 psi and it did just fine, but I'll try that starting at 20 in the tank.
Normally it takes 70 seconds from 100 to 120 and with the blow gun taking 20 psi it took 90 seconds.
Click to expand...
That sounds promising.
Depending on your particular blow gun nozzle, you may find that the paint gun takes fewer cfm.
What paint spray gun are you using?
 
I have painted a fair number of things, your bigger problem is going to be air quality (moisture, oil, other contaminant's), those 60g compressors tend to pump out hot moist air with prolonged use, a long run to cool down the air before the oil/water separator and a motorguard filter will be money well spent
If i were you i would consider an hvlp gun over a conventional pressure gun, the amount of overspray and "fog" you get with a conventional gun is considerable compared with hvlp

Your blow gun most likely sprays out more air than the spray gun, best way to test would be to fill the hopper with water and spray until the compressor kicks on

Also, dont forget about isocyanate's, get a charcoal filters for your respirator, goggles and a spray suit, that stuff is mean and can mess you up permanently, and it can do it in one unlucky exposure

Other than that, dual stage paint is miraculous stuff! once that clear goes on.....boy oh boy, you feel like a hero! well except for the mosquitos, they seem to love clear coat and you always end up with one or two doing it in a garage

found this on garage journal for that compressor
•Min RPM 700
•Max RPM 1200
•Max pressure 125 psi
•Max duty cycle 50%
•Oil capacity 18 oz.
•130 Pump 6.0 cfm @ 90psi (2 HP motor)
•165 Pump 10.1 cfm @ 90spi (5 HP motor)
•39 lbs.
•Torque specs (see Schematic on "Description" tab)
•For 2-4.5HP units, you have a 130 pump
•For 5HP and greater they call it a 165 pump. The only difference is the crankshaft and connecting rods.
 
phaxtris said:
I have painted a fair number of things, your bigger problem is going to be air quality (moisture, oil, other contaminant's), those 60g compressors tend to pump out hot moist air with prolonged use, a long run to cool down the air before the oil/water separator and a motorguard filter will be money well spent
If i were you i would consider an hvlp gun over a conventional pressure gun, the amount of overspray and "fog" you get with a conventional gun is considerable compared with hvlp

Your blow gun most likely sprays out more air than the spray gun, best way to test would be to fill the hopper with water and spray until the compressor kicks on

Also, dont forget about isocyanate's, get a charcoal filters for your respirator, goggles and a spray suit, that stuff is mean and can mess you up permanently, and it can do it in one unlucky exposure

Other than that, dual stage paint is miraculous stuff! once that clear goes on.....boy oh boy, you feel like a hero! well except for the mosquitos, they seem to love clear coat and you always end up with one or two doing it in a garage

found this on garage journal for that compressor
•Min RPM 700
•Max RPM 1200
•Max pressure 125 psi
•Max duty cycle 50%
•Oil capacity 18 oz.
•130 Pump 6.0 cfm @ 90psi (2 HP motor)
•165 Pump 10.1 cfm @ 90spi (5 HP motor)
•39 lbs.
•Torque specs (see Schematic on "Description" tab)
•For 2-4.5HP units, you have a 130 pump
•For 5HP and greater they call it a 165 pump. The only difference is the crankshaft and connecting rods.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that . I have the 5HP.
I'm in Saskatchewan and I'm toying with the idea of running a loop on the outside of the building in the winter to cool it before bringing into the separator. I've been looking at the HVLP guns and I'm all about safety equipment.
The older I get, the less chance there is for something to heal afterwards.
I'll probably even splurge and buy some shiny new hose.
Realistically I'm still probably quite a ways from paint yet but once I finish stripping and hammering out dents I want to shoot everything with epoxy primer to keep it from regressing while I fiddle around with stuff.
 
Datsun??

You might also want to think about a fresh (breathing) air supply vs filter masking just to be even safer. You can roll your own with something like a central vac blower, just make sure the blower motor is not in the air path.

Base - clear is great stuff and if a little blemish or run slips in it can be wet sanded and buffed and it’s gone! :D

D :cool:
 
David_R8 said:
I’m no painter but I have a Vaper HVLP gun that works well for me.
Bought it on recommendation from a car painting channel on YT.
Click to expand...
Thanks David.
There is a baffling array of paint guns to choose from, for sure.
I'm more than a little shocked at how much some of them cost but I guess if you make a living with one ti makes sense.
I just want to paint one car and I'll probably never do another.
But I want it to look good.
But I don't need show car quality. I live on a gravel road....
But I don't want to spend $1000 on a gun.
But I don't want to pay someone who knows what they're doing to paint it either.
But I don't want it to look like crap when I'm done.
I need a nap.
 
Doggggboy said:
Thanks David.
There is a baffling array of paint guns to choose from, for sure.
I'm more than a little shocked at how much some of them cost but I guess if you make a living with one ti makes sense.
I just want to paint one car and I'll probably never do another.
But I want it to look good.
But I don't need show car quality. I live on a gravel road....
But I don't want to spend $1000 on a gun.
But I don't want to pay someone who knows what they're doing to paint it either.
But I don't want it to look like crap when I'm done.
I need a nap.
Click to expand...
I agree. I’ll look up the channel and let you know.
 
Doggggboy said:
But I don't want it to look like crap when I'm done.
Click to expand...

this is the easy part, make sure your body work is flawless, any imperfection will show, i promise, and use base/clear. Its far easier to get a beautiful finish out of base/clear than single stage... it might cost you a bit more, but it is 100% worth it, base/clear is unreal compared to what you are used to seeing on a street car

Doggggboy said:
Haven't bought the gun yet but am looking at a 3M Accuspray Performance.
Open to suggestions.
Click to expand...

devilbiss starting line has been really popular for the occasional user for a long time, i think the set of two guns is 300 ish bucks, parts are easy to get, its a popular brand, i have a set of devilbiss guns (a PRi and Plus, i dont think they are in production anymore, but i can still buy parts), they have always worked flawlessly

Doggggboy said:
I'm in Saskatchewan and I'm toying with the idea of running a loop on the outside of the building in the winter to cool it before bringing into the separator.
Click to expand...

i have heard of guys running a line into a bucket of ice, running it outside could work well for you, i wouldnt go to crazy with the primer (its pretty forgiving), but when it comes to the base and clear you will want to take all precautions, cold dry air, wet shop floor, etc etc. if you plan on spraying in the winter, be aware there is different speeds of reducer for the temperature, talk to the guys at the paint supply to make sure you get the right reducer

and one thing, what ever gun you buy, get a gallon of gun wash at the same time and immaculately clean the gun immediately after use, full disassembly, even the smallest dried up paint particle on the needle or nozzle will ruin your day the next time you use it
 
Tecnico said:
Datsun??

You might also want to think about a fresh (breathing) air supply vs filter masking just to be even safer. You can roll your own with something like a central vac blower, just make sure the blower motor is not in the air path.

Base - clear is great stuff and if a little blemish or run slips in it can be wet sanded and buffed and it’s gone! :D

D :cool:
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip.
1967 Datsun Fairlady roadster.
This is not mine
800px-Datsun_Fairlady_1600.jpg
 
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