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Blast room

TorontoBuilder said:
That sounds like a very good method.

I think I'll save the motor plate for that method.
Click to expand...

I forgot to add that sometimes a small vice grip will work to twist them out, and I also have a small pair of pliers with a curved snout that can grab a screw or rivet head. It's always worth a try but to be honest, it seldom works.
 
Ideas that can work ....... flush pliers, have to have zero bevel one side, lift and lever at the head ..... or with a foredom or dremel and a cut wheel grind a small slot. It'll either twist out with a small screw driver, or the head will break off. The later is still good, name plate is off, then just drill out the rest of the pin
 
Mcgyver said:
Ideas that can work ....... flush pliers, have to have zero bevel one side, lift and lever at the head ..... or with a foredom or dremel and a cut wheel grind a small slot. It'll either twist out with a small screw driver, or the head will break off. The later is still good, name plate is off, then just drill out the rest of the pin
Click to expand...
I used flush end nippers. I just couldn't get a bite under the head, and the head was too hard to get the nippers to get a bite into the head itself, so I had to use my garbage beveled chisel to get them started.

after I got these first ones out I found my dremel... hopefully I'll find my cut off discs so I can get the tag off the motor.

Then I can tackle the pulley stuck on the motor. It has a slotted grub screw like it was made by barbarians.
 
So, I have been thinking that since we will have the blasting space set up, maybe I should explore my options for my spare 2J head housing parts.

I first thought a polished finish would look good, but I think a bead blasted housing could look good too. The polished finish will show every finger print, but the bead blasted can build up grime in the surface.

At the very least I'll clean these all up as best I can

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I have been trying to get the cast aluminum pulley off my drill press motor.

I soaked it in penetrating oil for 4 days, I tried the impact wrench, and finally I tried drilling the flat screw head but the thing seems to be hardened. I snapped a drill bit and the drill stub slammed into the web of my thumb and hit a small blood vessel... I left the basement wash room looking like a scene out of psycho...

I got it under control now so I can share a pic as a reminder, when using brittle small diameter drills be mindful of where the drill is going to go if the bit breaks.

I dont think heat is advisable... so acid dip or dynamite it is



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Stuck set screws or broke off screws etc, I don't even mess around with oils or anything anymore. Just lay a nut on there and weld it. The heat from welding will expand and break the bond, and the nut will let you spin it out easily. I remember reading about that trick 20+ years ago, and always saved it as a last resort over the years, but the last few times it's my go to out of the box. Works every time.
 
Dan Dubeau said:
Stuck set screws or broke off screws etc, I don't even mess around with oils or anything anymore. Just lay a nut on there and weld it. The heat from welding will expand and break the bond, and the nut will let you spin it out easily. I remember reading about that trick 20+ years ago, and always saved it as a last resort over the years, but the last few times it's my go to out of the box. Works every time.
Click to expand...
Yeah that is how I got the stcuk cam out of my spindle, but the set screw is not accessible to weld something onto it. I guess I'll be getting a carbide drill bit
 
Oh yea - he also taught me the importance of proper grounding and protecting (isolating) electrical components.
- Up plug and disconnect everything.
- have a solid & tight ground as close as possible to the weld
- on a motorcycle ((or car ,or tractor, etc) switch everything off; disconnect the battery; pull the CPU; disconnect all spark plugs; etc.
 
As for the ground, weld on a 5/16" bolt to the side of some needle nose vise grips. Bolt a ground wire to it, and now you can hold that nut and have the perfect ground source no matter the situation. I have quick connects on the ground wires for all my welders and plasma, and various ground clamps that can be swapped for whatever the situation. The vise grip one is very handy.

I agree 100% about keeping you ground path as short as possible when working on vehicles. I've always disconnected the battery too. I'm not smart enough to really understand all the science behind it, but it doesn't take long, and surely can't hurt anything.
 
Dan Dubeau said:
hold that nut and have the perfect ground source
Click to expand...
holding the nut with visegrips is exactly what that bike mechanic did. But he still disconnected everything.
I have also welded on other parts of the bike (broken foot pegs, add a special bracket) and that’s when all those precautions become very important
 
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