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Blast room

The downsized "temporary" blast room is coming together. Should be done tomorrow.

1731019250675.jpeg


It looks like it is time to plan to start stripping machines down and masking delicate surfaces.
 
Okay so we have a mostly completed shed, we will get some pond liner for walls and floor.

We have a compressor that can deliver 18 cfm at 100 psi and we will soon buy a sand blaster pot and gun. We will use ~1/8" nozzle size. It just depends on what is available on marketplace or kijiji over the next week.

What remains unselected is the choice of media, and PPE.

I want to buy a hobbyair full face mask respirator, but it is $900 + HST and cash is tight after a bunch of recent expenditures for cabinets, tools, etc. I have a good half mask respirator already, but it uses filters rather than being supplied air.

I wont be using and sand based media, to minimize risk of silicon exposure. So what are people's thoughts on media? I hear recycled glass is a good choice for paint and oil, and has the benefit of not marring underlying metal, and not having any appreciable free silica amount. It is fairly cheap, and it is harmless in the environment.

I do need a mask for painting with 2k paints, so supplied air become important due to existing health conditions. Isocyanurates can adversely affect up to 20% or the population. So I guess I will have to bite that bullet at some point before painting.

This begs the question, how to protect bare cast iron until I can prime it with epoxy primer. I'll have 3 machines to paint. My friend can worry about his own painting needs since he is using standard paints.

I guess I need to call and rag on the rental company that has failed to respond to my quote enquiry
 
Of course, since I'm not going to do this type of work often, I can very lilkely safely and reliably use a filtered mask rather than a supplied air system.

The other issue is that aircraft spruce is out of all the models I was considering... like the full mask system, or the buddy system.
 
Check tcp global, you should be able to find any type of mask you want, that is where I bought my hobbyair many moons ago


Glass doesn't re-use well, it breaks down pretty quickly if you intended to re-use, other than that it works well, and is cheap
 
FWIW & IMO:

- I suggest Black Beauty as a media. It is 0.1% silica and has other advantages (if you believe the sales propaganda).
- Pick your day when there is low humidity. Absolutely avoid a day after rain or when everything is damp. Sunny and dry for a couple days is great. Get the primer on asap. Blast in the morning and prime in the afternoon. Don’t leave it overnight!!
 
If it takes a long time to get thick layers of paint off and you can’t finish it in time to prime in the afternoon- then consider priming it in sections as completed. Alternatively you could blast everything, leave it overnight and then give all surfaces a quick blast before painting.
The other option (I’m pretty sure you won’t like this one) is to rent a 185cfm compressor and get the blasting done 10x faster.
 
You need a 7.5 hp power 2 stage like I own to do decent blasting with the amount of air required. I have a large blast cabinet and vacuum system and the compressor just keeps up. Keep in mind you are fighting moisture as well, I have a refrigerant air dryer and pellets dryer just before the blaster cabinet. A VFD set up can help with efficiency of the compressor but I haven’t bothered.
 
you should plan on sheeting the interior,
We have multiple industrial blaster buildings at work, AND repair them on a daily basis, To expand on this, Consider a rubber sheet or similar that if blasted - will not crumble or disappear. The walls and catwalks and basically anything else you can think of, disintegrate in short order. We ended up lining everything with thick rubber carcass sheets / belts etc etc.

Food for thought. Any way!
 
You need a 7.5 hp power 2 stage like I own to do decent blasting with the amount of air required. I have a large blast cabinet and vacuum system and the compressor just keeps up. Keep in mind you are fighting moisture as well, I have a refrigerant air dryer and pellets dryer just before the blaster cabinet. A VFD set up can help with efficiency of the compressor but I haven’t bothered.
We have a 3 cylinder 5HP compressor. We have time to blast so we will have to make do. Rental firms apparently dont reply to quotation request forms when you are a private individual.
 
Of course, since I'm not going to do this type of work often, I can very lilkely safely and reliably use a filtered mask rather than a supplied air system.

The other issue is that aircraft spruce is out of all the models I was considering... like the full mask system, or the buddy system.
I've painted a number of cars and bikes over the years and have always wanted a fresh air system but they cost so frigin much, so instead I just use 3M 6001 filters with a prefilter. As soon as I can detect any scent from the primer, paint or clear throw them away and attach new ones with new prefilters.

Not ideal, but still have most of my brain cells.
Are you thinking about using standard base/clear or thicker industrial paint?
 
I've painted a number of cars and bikes over the years and have always wanted a fresh air system but they cost so frigin much, so instead I just use 3M 6001 filters with a prefilter. As soon as I can detect any scent from the primer, paint or clear throw them away and attach new ones with new prefilters.

Not ideal, but still have most of my brain cells.
Are you thinking about using standard base/clear or thicker industrial paint?
eastwood 2Kautomotive paints
 
Of course, since I'm not going to do this type of work often, I can very lilkely safely and reliably use a filtered mask rather than a supplied air system.

The other issue is that aircraft spruce is out of all the models I was considering... like the full mask system, or the buddy system.
I just ordered directly from Axis pro. Took a while for them to ship due to a lack of supply hose but it only cost around 150 $ for duties. Haven't used it yet but I am a little underwhelmed. The supply hose is stiff and the supply fan appears to be a basic turbine fan with a speed control and a hepa filter. I am sure it will all be fine when I use it but it looks like pretty basic parts and pieces
I didnt want to have to constantly dick around with filters .
 
I just ordered directly from Axis pro. Took a while for them to ship due to a lack of supply hose but it only cost around 150 $ for duties. Haven't used it yet but I am a little underwhelmed. The supply hose is stiff and the supply fan appears to be a basic turbine fan with a speed control and a hepa filter. I am sure it will all be fine when I use it but it looks like pretty basic parts and pieces
I didnt want to have to constantly dick around with filters .
yeah that is pretty much what I expected.

my brother actually wanted to make our own air supply, but then the fittings are an issue. IF I had time I'd probably do it, but the plan is to blast in 2 or 3 weeks
 
eastwood 2Kautomotive paints

Optiflow roll on primers
Eastwood 2K Epoxy Primer Gray followed by
Eastwood 2K High Build Urethane Primer Gray, followed by
blocking, followed by Eastwood 2K High Build Urethane Primer Gray rinse lather repeat..

But actually haven't decided on the topcoat and clearcoat choices.
 
A VFD set up can help with efficiency of the compressor but I haven’t bothered.

AVE has a good video on using a VFD on a compressor.

Interesting idea. Odd that it never crossed my mind. I guess I just didn't think of a compressor as something that needs variable speed or tuning.

Prolly won't do it though. Don't really use much air now that most of my tools are battery powered. Mostly just inflating tires and blowing dirt.
 
The other option (I’m pretty sure you won’t like this one) is to rent a 185cfm compressor and get the blasting done 10x faster.

Another vote for this.

Bunch of random sandblasting thoughts......this is from a commerical context so filter as required.

It takes a lot of air, that is for sure. We had a 180 CFM compressor and found that it wasn't enough for efficient operation. It worked but was too slow and ran too rich - it consumed too much media with un-intuitively slows things down. We now have 475 (which should be enough for two blasters) and it works properly. What happened at the lower CFM is you can't get the mixture lean enough so much of the abrasive travelling toward the work ends up colliding with abrasive that has bounced off the work. Blasting ends taking way longer and you go through tons more media, literally.

Granted you don't need the through put for hobby stuff, but still, it'll be very frustrating without a pressurized pot and it just takes a lot of air. iirc, a lot of these small compressors have a 50% duty cyle so you'll blasing a small percentge of the time waiting for the tank the charge.

We use black beauty or white lightening which are supposed to be low in silica (that's the health risk not silicone, and its bad stuff) I don't think glass gets you away from the issue (still comes from sand, right?) and I recall hearing it doesn't cut well at all ..... ends up being more time, media and more fuel for the compressor. The recycle centre thought it a great idea for a product from waste, but the guys who know more than I don't want to use it because it doesn't cut well/is slow.

As for air, the only acceptable set up imo is a positive pressue hood fed from an oiless air compressor operting well away from the plume. You just don't want to breath this stuff. If doing so indoors, very quickly, you'll have a hard time seeing from the dust. Commercial indoor units I've seen have significant air make up capabilty, but that is really big bucks and not feasible ( for either of us). I like the roll up doors at both ends idea, a breezy day might also be good. This is assuming your having at it with a good size compressor.

Give some thought to sand disposal. We'll only blast new steel fabrication as the sand with the scale is no big deal to get rid of. That is not the case blasting older stuff and we don't want the lead from the paint or whaterever else is getting into the yard.

Last point is, on a lot of these nice of old lathes, there has been time put into filling and finishing the casting. That gets blasted away and could add to the work you have to do. Why blasing instead of sanding? Not saying blasting isn't the right option for this lathe, but that it does have that downside if most of the paint still has good adhesion.

Looking forward to seeing how it all works out.
 
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Another vote for this.

Bunch of random sandblasting thoughts......this is from a commerical context so filter as required.

It takes a lot of air, that is for sure. We had a 180 CFM compressor and found that it wasn't enough for efficient operation. It worked but was too slow and ran too rich - it consumed too much media with un-intuitively slows things down. We now have 475 (which should be enough for two blasters) and it works properly. What happened at the lower CFM is you can't get the mixture lean enough so much of the abrasive travelling toward the work ends up colliding with abrasive that has bounced off the work. Blasting ends taking way longer and you go through tons more media, literally.

Granted you don't need the through put for hobby stuff, but still, it'll be very frustrating without a pressurized pot and it just takes a lot of air. iirc, a lot of these small compressors have a 50% duty cyle so you'll blasing a small percentge of the time waiting for the tank the charge.

We use black beauty or white lightening which are supposed to be low in silica (that's the health risk not silicone, and its bad stuff) I don't think glass gets you away from the issue (still comes from sand, right?) and I recall hearing it doesn't cut well at all ..... ends up being more time, media and more fuel for the compressor. The recycle centre thought it a great idea for a product from waste, but the guys who know more than I don't want to use it because it doesn't cut well/is slow.

As for air, the only acceptable set up imo is a positive pressue hood fed from an oiless air compressor operting well away from the plume. You just don't want to breath this stuff. If doing so indoors, very quickly, you'll have a hard time seeing from the dust. Commercial indoor units I've seen have significant air make up capabilty, but that is really big bucks and not feasible ( for either of us). I like the roll up doors at both ends idea, a breezy day might also be good. This is assuming your having at it with a good size compressor.

Give some thought to sand disposal. We'll only blast new steel fabrication as the sand with the scale is no big deal to get rid of. That is not the case blasting older stuff and we don't want the lead from the paint or whaterever else is getting into the yard.

Last point is, on a lot of these nice of old lathes, there has been time put into filling and finishing the casting. That gets blasted away and could add to the work you have to do. Why blasing instead of sanding? Not saying blasting isn't the right option for this lathe, but that it does have that downside if most of the paint still has good adhesion.

Looking forward to seeing how it all works out.
Blasting g I stead of sanding due to number of machines to do. And the coolant tray and sump will be easier. I'm happy if I can get clean without stripping g all the paint.. but I'm prepared to refill and block castings as needed.

Yes I had a brain fart.. I meant silica not silicon.

I plan to go the rental place today to force a quote out of them...

My understanding is during glass manufacture free silica is bound but I'm open to better media si ce I love my lungs

I plan to blast in open doorway rather then enclosed shed..
 
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