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Blast room

Susquatch said:
Interesting idea. Odd that it never crossed my mind. I guess I just didn't think of a compressor as something that needs variable speed or tuning.

Prolly won't do it though. Don't really use much air now that most of my tools are battery powered. Mostly just inflating tires and blowing dirt.
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I watched that video... re.ember yhat 5hp 3ph motor you grabbed for me...
 
Today was productive... We got the compressor unloaded in guelph. no was was killed or injured. It's in place, bolted to a pallet ready to wire in.

The shed now has a roof, complete with roll roofing. Sheathing goes on tomorrow.

I managed to dissemble a General 130 14" wood planer so it is ready to blast. Only had to use screw extractor on 5 flat head screws that would not come out even with an impact driver. Later in the 1970s they replaced these with robertson head screws. I think torx for the replacements.

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Even with the bearing mounts unfastened, they bearings didn't want to release so lots of fussing to get em out.

Just some of the parts..

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These old general machines use a lot of drive pins, what a pain in the behind, two really didn't want to come out. I got stuck on this stage for a while... and ended up aggravating the arthritis. The pins were peened over on both sides so I had a hard time releasing the retainers that kept the thrust bearings in place.


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almost there...

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Next tear down will be my grandpa's old dunlap drill press. I use this often enough and it is small enough to remain in my basement tool collection. But it needs to look a lot nicer for that.

It is almost complete missing only the chuck removal nut, and because it wasn't owned by idiots only has one errant drill hole in the table, despite being older than I am. I'm thinking because the table is so nice that I can practice scraping on it and leave it nice and pretty.


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There is however rust showing thru the very thin paint finish due to sub-optimal storage over the years. I also is a dunlap so it is cheap paint, and the casting was never really finished well. That wont stand, especially if I hand scrape the table.

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I'm going to grind that casting parting line, and give it epoxy primer followed by a filler the smooth the casting prior to finish paint.

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There is a nice recess that if I dont over fill it I can hit with contrasting paint to match my lathe paint scheme.

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At least I didn't need to get the chuck off to disassemble the drill press to get it ready to blast.

I have never given this a really close inspection, and I'm stoked that the name plates are in really great shape. I love that a drill press of this era has the integral switch in the motor base, and that it has a cast iron motor frame and is just the type I like to pull apart and rebuild.

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I'm sortta glad that Craftsman never took the time to fill the crappy surfaces of these castings, because it will make mine stand out when I'm done.
 
TorontoBuilder said:
I'm sortta glad that Craftsman never took the time to fill the crappy surfaces of these castings, because it will make mine stand out when I'm done.
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I really should rebuild mine. I cleaned up the post, installed a new switch, made a key holder for it, and repaired the pullies when I first got it 50 years ago. But it hasn't seen any repairs or improvements since then.
 
So I can't get the drive screws out of the main tag on the base.

I tried my usual tactic of pushing a single bevel chisel under the tag and gently prying. It only mangled the tag a bit without budging the drive screw.

I just reorganized and still can't find my dremel to try the ground slot method
 
I usually use a center punch on the head and then drill them out with a smaller drill than I expect. You can always use a bigger drill later, but once the hole is too big, you can't use a smaller one. Sometimes a starter hole and screw extractor works on the drive screws with a spiral shaft.

Also, if the head of the drive screw is deformed, I don't trust a center punch to be on center so I'll grind the head enough to see the center and then proceed as above.
 
Susquatch said:
I usually use a center punch on the head and then drill them out with a smaller drill than I expect. You can always use a bigger drill later, but once the hole is too big, you can't use a smaller one. Sometimes a starter hole and screw extractor works on the drive screws with a spiral shaft.

Also, if the head of the drive screw is deformed, I don't trust a center punch to be on center so I'll grind the head enough to see the center and then proceed as above.
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That sounds like a very good method.

I think I'll save the motor plate for that method.
 
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