I presume you use a bench grinder for sharpening. Have you recently dressed that wheel?
In this case I used one of these https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...-blue-zirconia-sharpening-belts?item=68Z24212 Brand new.
I presume you use a bench grinder for sharpening. Have you recently dressed that wheel?
Thats the same blade that I have on my Emco, although mine is 11/16".I got the blade from these guys
The one they sent me is labeled HSS 1/16 X 1/2 X 4-1/2 CHINA, no indication of Cobalt on it.
The blade @Dusty sent me is labeled GROZ COBALT.
Thats the same blade that I have on my Emco, although mine is 11/16".
Also, what kind of HP does your lathe have? Too little and you'll have problems parting.
1/2 HP. But I seem to be getting somewhere now after taking @RobinHood 's advice and tuning the blade up on the bench grinder rather than my belt sander.....
View attachment 21320
I also dressed the edges with a fine stone. Can plow right through now without stopping.
Hey Craig look what happens when you don't give up, well done! However there's a hidden lesson here for all of us, when one is having problems with tooling please, please provide the background music in this case 'how the cut off blade was sharpened'. Had we known this from the beginning I'm positive the issue would have been resolved quickly. As for me I assumed Craig sharpened same using a grinder although I wondered about the ragged face edge on his blade from his photo.
Bottom line when you post don't be shy with providing full details, none of us are mind readers. Just saying!
Initially I didn't do anything to the blade, I was trying to use it as delivered. Seemed sharp enough. The rough edge was as delivered, you can see it in the Amazon images.
The pretty large relief under the tip may have contributed excess heat in the tip also.
Glad you are making real chips now.
Maybe this is photo parallax but it looks like your blade is high relative to rotation center? Someone pointed out that the ruler method is just a ballpark estimate if you bring a new tool to work or otherwise impractical to remove the part. But the way you have it now presents a great opportunity to part off say 3/4 blade width & closely observe the middle as it approaches center. If it has a remaining nub, cutting tool is passing low & should be raised. If its rubbing off the nub prematurely, then opposite situation - blade is high. It should be very evident.
Once you have it set, leave it there. Next time you sharpen, you have to repeat the process on scrap. Then the tool assembly is ready to go when the real job arrives. Don't forget to tighten the toolpost height set nut as well, if its loose the blade position can drift with repeated use.
The discoloration on the tip was from grinding. I should have used a water dip.
Moral of the story the old goat was the weak link. LOLGood one Bill!