What does the tool tip geometry look like on that T blade? I have a T blade in my AXA blade holder that has not impressed me so far.
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AXA Tool Holder for Tapered Cut Off Blades
- Thread starter YYCHM
- Start date
What does the tool tip geometry look like on that T blade? I have a T blade in my AXA blade holder that has not impressed me so far.
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No, I built it straight.
The slope creates the top rake for you without having to grind it in like mine is. I prefer to roll my own so i made it without.
My BXA set on the Emco has the slope.
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Hey Craig, your tool holder in the photo should provide the 7 degree upward slope which should work somewhat like the blade I sent. Only difference being a square on cut off blade holder to material requires a ground out thumbnail to achieve the 7 degree angle. If this makes any sense.
Never ever tried the holder and blade I sent you in my 7 degree holder, might be worth trying.
Should you have a good stone one can quickly touch up the cutting tip front face without having to grind same. Just saying!
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That takes us back to how this thread got started. Those 7 deg. XA holders won't take a tapered blade without modification or shims to set the blade upright.
This kind of explains it all....
AXA Tool Holder for Tapered Cut Off Blades
I have some 15mm :rolleyes: cut off blades that look like this in profile.... Where can I get an AXA tool holder for these things? Baring an AXA tool holder, any tool holder.... Thanks, Craigcanadianhobbymetalworkers.com
But Bill @Dusty seems to have nailed the proper tool geometry....
I just zipped off another three nuts. No drama. No problems.
Amazing...
Hey Craig, exactly what I wanted to hear. Well done old boy!
What I've noticed on some of the el-cheapo tool holders is
- they can have incomplete machining on the bottom ledge, like a fillet or bevel. So even when the blade starts out aligned to the main face, it cocks the blade over when tightening
- the top clamp wedge can have similar geometry problems
Also if you have a T section blade & push the bottom into the corner, you can artificially create the same issue. T-section are basically upright rectangles whereas some of the other styles are trapezoidal or prismatic or whatever the right word is. You can probably remove the holder, put assembly on flat surface & put a square up to the blade with light behind it to see what's going on.
- they can have incomplete machining on the bottom ledge, like a fillet or bevel. So even when the blade starts out aligned to the main face, it cocks the blade over when tightening
- the top clamp wedge can have similar geometry problems
Also if you have a T section blade & push the bottom into the corner, you can artificially create the same issue. T-section are basically upright rectangles whereas some of the other styles are trapezoidal or prismatic or whatever the right word is. You can probably remove the holder, put assembly on flat surface & put a square up to the blade with light behind it to see what's going on.
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I added a few features to try to counteract that with mine. Maybe the same can be done with the *xa 7 degree holders?
the top and bottom edges that actually grab the blade have a very slight angle. I canted the block with a slip of paper when milling the slot for the blade. So to create a jaw effect that would pull the blade in towards the toolpost. My sloppy deburring makes it look like a few degrees, but in reality it is probably less than 1/2 a degree.
the top and bottom edges that actually grab the blade have a very slight angle. I canted the block with a slip of paper when milling the slot for the blade. So to create a jaw effect that would pull the blade in towards the toolpost. My sloppy deburring makes it look like a few degrees, but in reality it is probably less than 1/2 a degree.
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That's cool @dfloen.
I've been looking at doing something VERY similar. I'd like to do it without a height adjuster and just set it up from the git go to rest right on the compound for rigidity. That would require a specific blade height, but I had thought that the rigidity would be higher.
I had even thought about eliminating the tool post itself.
I bet that drilled hole to facilitate clamping wasn't all that easy to do.......
What steel did you use and what is the surface treatment?
I don't know why you are chopping the head off of that rusty old bolt, but that's one of my primary sources of steel. I use a lot of old Bolts like that.
LOL!
Took me a while to figure out what I was looking at! Your background looks like it was part of the tool holder! Great optical illusion.
I've tended to use shim stock behind the tooling to keep it at the right angles.
I don't know why parting is sometimes such a challenge for me. Sometimes it works great and other times not so great. On the not so great times, I flip the tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse. That has never failed me yet.
Anyway, that's my motivation for making a more rigid blade holder.
That's an interesting top rake.
Why such a smooth roll? I would have expected a shorter more abrupt "nick" at the end instead of the big roll to improve chip breaking. What was your thinking on that?
Maybe that's a factor in my parting challenges.
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Mine has no height adjuster. Just held be the wedge dovetail. The height adjuster should see none of the cutting forces, really, the wedge does fine.
on a small lathe yes, but even my Emco can part off with power feed at some pretty high feed rates with no issues, with a toolpost and compound. Keeping everything choked up as close as possible helps a lot. On bigger machines this is less important. In my parting video earlier, the blade was out at least 1.75, probably 1.875 or so. it is a 1.125" high blade though. But i never did anything else. No oil, etc.
Just a 4" drill. I actually reamed it too, to avoid stress risers, probably totally unnecessary, but why not. It cost an extra beer.
its scaptonium,. Heated it up to dull cherry and dumped it in the used oil, wiped off with rag
Thats a bucket pin from a back-hoe.. I made new pins in an attempt to tighten the old gal up, but alas, she'd been around the block a few times. Made it better though, and I got 50lbs of metal to play with.
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Thats my bar table...lol sorry
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Sure seems to work ok? that was 0.002" per rev. We could try more,
Don't you sleep? LOL!
What make of drill?
Cool that you reamed it.
I have a Cummins too..... Very interesting...... I'll have to try that! I assume you just used a torch to heat the block?
My backhoe bucket tooth pins are just big roll pins. No Bolts.
I don't like them either.
I cut the screw on the only one I have like that. Still don't use it.
It's not about the height adjuster. What I was after was to get the tool holder resting right on the compound for rigidity. If I do that, then there is no point in an adjuster.
Ya, both tool stick out and part stick out hurt. But I seem to have problems too often even all choked up.