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Several Regions have held meetups already, but others are being planned or are evaluating the interest. The Calgary Area Meetup is set for Saturday July 12th at 10am. The signup thread is here! Arbutus has also explored interest in a Fraser Valley meetup but it seems members either missed his thread or had other plans. Let him know if you are interested in a meetup later in the year by posting here! Slowpoke is trying to pull together an Ottawa area meetup later this summer. No date has been selected yet, so let him know if you are interested here! We are not aware of any other meetups being planned this year. If you are interested in doing something in your area, let everyone know and make it happen! Meetups are a great way to make new machining friends and get hands on help in your area. Don’t be shy, sign up and come, or plan your own meetup!
Alexander Deckel SO Clone
- Thread starter Susquatch
- Start date
The original colour is so much nicer than that ugly dull olive green.
Also notice the shaft scoring where the adapter was originally stuck to the shaft - right side of shaft in photo. I'll have to polish that out lest it seize again in the future.
Also notice the shaft scoring where the adapter was originally stuck to the shaft - right side of shaft in photo. I'll have to polish that out lest it seize again in the future.
POR 15 make great products, the closest thing I have found to powder coating for durability, The drawbacks to POR 15 are the smell, time to cure and the stuff will not clean off your skin!
Powder is still the toughest coating I have ever used, mostly for vintage motorcycle frame and related components. I have restored one motorcycle frame using POR 15 but it does not turn out as nice as powder coating.
I have an old wall oven in a home made square steel tube frame, I am limited to what fits in the cabinet, larger parts I farm out to the pros.
DIY powder is very easy, no smells, most powder cures in 20 minutes between 350 ~ 400 F, once the part cools down its good to go and powder only comes off with a razor blade or a very special powder coat solvent. I have used the same Eastwood Automotive powder gun for over ten years, you only need to run about 3 ~ 5 psi air pressure and find an old oven. I have keep about 20 colors / finishes in my little inventory. Last year I completely stripped down my Atlas 7B shaper and powder coated every part in my wall oven.
I have a vapour blast cabinet but any dry blast cabinet will suffice, use fine glass bead, wash and then wipe down with Acetone before spraying the powder on.
It takes me less than hour to clean, blast, wash, spray the powder, bake the part and clean up the small amount of dry powder overspray. The part is fully cured after twenty minutes in the oven and then as soon as it cools down its finished, no smell, no runs or drips, and its many times stronger than any other form of paint. I will never go back to rattle cans or even automotive spray products.
Powder is still the toughest coating I have ever used, mostly for vintage motorcycle frame and related components. I have restored one motorcycle frame using POR 15 but it does not turn out as nice as powder coating.
I have an old wall oven in a home made square steel tube frame, I am limited to what fits in the cabinet, larger parts I farm out to the pros.
DIY powder is very easy, no smells, most powder cures in 20 minutes between 350 ~ 400 F, once the part cools down its good to go and powder only comes off with a razor blade or a very special powder coat solvent. I have used the same Eastwood Automotive powder gun for over ten years, you only need to run about 3 ~ 5 psi air pressure and find an old oven. I have keep about 20 colors / finishes in my little inventory. Last year I completely stripped down my Atlas 7B shaper and powder coated every part in my wall oven.
I have a vapour blast cabinet but any dry blast cabinet will suffice, use fine glass bead, wash and then wipe down with Acetone before spraying the powder on.
It takes me less than hour to clean, blast, wash, spray the powder, bake the part and clean up the small amount of dry powder overspray. The part is fully cured after twenty minutes in the oven and then as soon as it cools down its finished, no smell, no runs or drips, and its many times stronger than any other form of paint. I will never go back to rattle cans or even automotive spray products.