Alexander Deckel SO Clone

[Susquatch]

That is very cool @gerritv. I would guess I could do that manually with a universal indexer instead of a motor drive

 

[Darren]

I'm a little late here, but automotive brake fluid will take paint off anything. Soak parts in it for best results.

 

[gerritv]

That is very cool @gerritv. I would guess I could do that manually with a universal indexer instead of a motor drive

But you won't have to, this one is for you

 

[Susquatch]

But you won't have to, this one is for you

Yes, you had said that you would do that and a few other related parts for me! I will be so grateful!!!!

I still want to know how though! It sure looks cool!

 

[Susquatch]

My new to me tool grinder is coming along nicely. Working on getting the crappy paint off of the last component of the gimbal assembly now.



I'll prolly be all done and ready for paint by tonight. Then I need to decide if I want to repaint the main body of the grinder too.



I don't really like the dirty shop green of the current grinder anyway. Maybe a lighter gray or a dark ivory. Whatever colour it is, it will have to be a colour that comes in a rattle can and doesn't require a primer. I hate painting.

 

[PeterT]

colour that comes in a rattle can and doesn't require a primer

I dunno about that claim & it probably depends on the brand & phase of the moon. I've been doing some tests on scrap metal because there are some tools I want to paint without getting out the cancer inducing paint & spray gear. Tremclad seems pretty good, not bulletproof but OK. I can live with the limited Tremclad palette for boring shop fixtures but I bought some rattle can 'hammered' finishes because it hides things & looks somewhat like vintage instruments. This is a failed application on 3DP surface just to give an idea. They come in different colors. But even after a lengthy cure I can scrape it off with a bit of effort. No different than a lot of rattle can finishes, I suspect it sthe same underlying chemistry. This was applied on lightly sanded but perfectly clean steel, shop temperature etc. When I used my standard 1K rattle can primer, it stuck much better. I also tried my 2K primer/sealer just a brush on test, & that was better yet. So the paint prefers a base IMO, despite the primer-less claims.

I'm not sure how this stuff as a top coat would withstand oils or cutting fluids. Personally I think for rough & tumble shop use, you either accept degrading finish over time or you get the good stuff. A lot of autobody finishes are not the most resilient opaque/base coat either, but they depend on a primer & 2K top coat. Most weekend warriors don't want to go through this effort or expense.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/categories/decor/paint/spray-paint/f/hammered/gw3-w3p

 

[Susquatch]

Most weekend warriors don't want to go through this effort or expense.

Thank you Peter. I think on your advice, I'll need a primer coat despite how much I'll hate doing it. Can you recommend something I can get at the normal places?

 

[PeterT]

Well 1K primer is only going to be so tough, that' just the nature of the beast. But its easy to apply, sands well, pretty short inter-coat times. I would go to an Autobody paint supply place over big box store. The 1K I'm using at present is made by Dominion Sure Seal. It is bigger volume per cost, better spray cap, comes in a few common primer shades which I like when blocking between coats, you can better see what you're doing. Your local guy may have others. There is also a lot of re-labelling marketing going on so its a bit of crap shoot.

2K is going to be significantly tougher, impervious to hydrocarbon, that's a different game. I suspect you probably don't want to go there. Most contain isocyanates or similar goodies.

The one product I haven't yet tried yet is is POR-15. Its been mentioned several times for machines, stands, things like that. They also sell their own line of self-etch & high build primers, so may be worth taking a look at. I'm hoping its somewhere in between 'sufficiently tough'. I think Tremclad either tweaked the formula over the years (for the worse) or maybe the spray is different than the can. I have older things where the coating is actually pretty good, but the newer stuff is just not there. Might be in my head, but a lot of chemistries got changed with environmental regs.

Primer

Effectively prep your metal for painting with automotive primers from POR-15. Purchase self-etching, high-build, and weld-thru primers in various sizes.

por15.com

 

[Susquatch]

Might be in my head, but a lot of chemistries got changed with environmental regs.

Not in your head. It's absolutely true. You would think the auto industry would have had paint pretty much bullet proof by now. But government regulations have absolutely destroyed what used to be drop dead gorgeous and bullet proof. Now auto paint is a 3-ring circus.

But you are right, I'm just looking for useable and reasonable. 1K and Tremclad rattle can is prolly all I need.

To be honest, NOTHING could be worse than what I had when I got it.

 

[Susquatch]

All my gimbal parts are stripped down to bare metal now. I finished the last part this afternoon.

It doesn't seem to matter how I look at it, I keep coming to the conclusion that I have to strip down and repaint the main grinder body too. I have not even painted one gimbal part, but I already know I gotta do the whole thing. Crap......

And then there is the motor.....

Crap crap crap. I HATE PAINTING!!!

 

[6.5 Fan]

Crap crap crap. I HATE PAINTING!!!

Time to invite SWMBO to the shop to share in your project.

 

[Susquatch]

Time to invite SWMBO to the shop to share in your project.

That's a GREAT idea. She loves painting. And she is damn good at it too.

But, she gets anxiety attacks in my shop. She is a filer, so even thinking about my shop gives her a migraine headache. She would never be able to paint anything for my shop. I'd need to make a painting studio in the forest for her.....