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Air compressor not restarting

It was worth a shot. I thought after that it's probably a dedicated 220v.
It is dedicated 220v. I could connect a 110V motor as well as I have 110V in the space.
I have the day off tomorrow so I should be able to dig into this a bit further.
 
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It is dedicated 220v. I could connect a 110V motor as well as I have 110V in the space.
I have the day off tomorrow so I should be able to dig into this a bit further.
What's the value of the capacitor on the motor. I'll check if my ESR tester can test the size you have.
 
Today the compressor restarted just fine.
I took its temp after running it to full pressure. 238F on the head, 102F on the body of the motor. When it restarted and ran up the second time the head temp was the same, motor temp was 106F.
 
Ambient temperature today vs. the problematic days?

Seems unlikely it fixed itself, a good test would be run the air down enough to make it go through a few back to back cycles.
 
It's actually warmer today, 19C vs 14-17C the other days when it wasn't working.
I did have the door to the lean to open when it filled the first time today so that may have kept to overall interior air temp low enough to not trip the thermal.
I'll cycle it a few times and see how it does.
 
Thermaled out for the fourth recharge. Motor was 117F. This leads me to think everything is fine. It's just getting too hot inside the lean-to. 230 degree air coming off the head into a small enclosed insulated space is going to warm things up quickly. Maybe an exhaust fan to suck the hot air out.
 
Thermaled out for the fourth recharge. Motor was 117F. This leads me to think everything is fine. It's just getting too hot inside the lean-to. 230 degree air coming off the head into a small enclosed insulated space is going to warm things up quickly. Maybe an exhaust fan to suck the hot air out.
I was just going to suggest that. Recall how hot the exhaust air is into the cooler and then how cool it is on the outlet. Perhaps duct the fan on the compressor after the radiator to outside. Put an inlet vent near the bottom of the enclosure to bring in cooler air that moves up cooling things as it rises to the inlet of the fan on the compressor.
 
Yes I think this is the problem.
I'll add some vents and an inline duct fan.
 
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Yes I think this is the problem.
I'll add some vents and figure out how to add a fan
You already have a fan blowing air through the radiator right? Just duct that air outside the enclosure.

edit: Or even duct it into the shop instead to keep the noise away from your neighbors. The heat will help in the winter and likely not warm up the shop all that much during the summer.
 
You already have a fan blowing air through the radiator right? Just duct that air outside the enclosure.

edit: Or even duct it into the shop instead to keep the noise away from your neighbors. The heat will help in the winter and likely not warm up the shop all that much during the summer.
Unfortunately the shop side of the wall the compressor is on is covered with cabinets.
I'll add a vent at the bottom and top of the door and put the exhaust fan on the top vent.
Need to make a muffler for the compressor intake as that will drastically reduce the noise
 
It could be if that space is really small.

I still think you have a marginal capacitor(s). My 60 gallon Sanborn is enclosed under the stairs leading from the garage to the basement. Basically trapped between close proximity concrete walls on three sides and stair case on the third that has most of the risers blocked for sound dampening and it gets plenty warm in the garage on a hot day, high 20's for sure and mine runs fine.

I expect the problem will get worse with time and the motor windings will get hotter and hotter, hopefully not too hot. I hope I'm wrong. Capacitors are cheap and testing is free if you can borrow a meter.
 
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I still think it's the capacitor(s). My 60 gallon Sanborn is enclosed under the stairs leading from the garage to the basement. Basically trapped between close proximity concrete walls on three sides and stair case on the third that has most of the risers blocked for sound dampening and it gets plenty warm in the garage on a hot day, high 20's for sure and mine runs fine.
What's leading me to think it's the heat is that it ran fine in the garage and outside during the winter when it was cold.
I think I can test them with my new fancy pants tester. No idea how to do that though so I best do some research.
 
What's leading me to think it's the heat is that it ran fine in the garage and outside during the winter when it was cold.
I think I can test them with my new fancy pants tester. No idea how to do that though so I best do some research.
As I said, I have the tester. But quick question. How old is the compressor?
 
Ok I just tested the capacitors.
One is marked 150 mF, it tested at 176.9
The other is marked 25mF it tested at 25.15
No idea if the first is an issue.

The 150mF capacitor has a date of 2017 so it's seven years old.
 
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One is marked 150 mF, it tested at 176.9

Others here have more expertise than me, but my understanding is that especially with caps that size and type, the specs are pretty loose, and that a slightly greater value in this case is not going to hurt anything.
 
Others here have more expertise than me, but my understanding is that especially with caps that size and type, the specs are pretty loose, and that a slightly greater value in this case is not going to hurt anything.
Unfortunately the capacitance test doesn't test the ESR.
 
Usually the tolerance is written on the capacitor either in % or absolute.

The 177uF is interesting, Capacitors degrade to a lower value over time, so that's why I say interesting. Capacitors appear to be okay, assuming that 177 value is within the stated tolerance. Too high will cause increased start current.

If your centrifugal switch is dirty such that it is kicking out late that would cause over current briefly consistent with the overload trip.
 
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