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9" SM Utilathe Restoration

Putting the spindle pulley on the motor was just a test to see if the vibration changed.
My motor pulley is about 5" and the spindle pulley is about 6". Swapping the pulleys won't make any difference to the ratios but will increase the spindle speeds.
 
Try these steps:
1. Is the vibration still there with the spindle in neutral? if the vibration goes away then you have a spindle issue. if the vibration is still there then that would eliminate the spindle.

How do you put the spindle in neutral?

I swapped the pulleys and didn't notice any real difference other than high range with max RPM sheave position caused my power bar to trip. I need to swap them again and see if power bar trip still occurs, maybe it had always done that.

Craig
 
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Daaaaa….. Oh that neutral......LOL

Ok..... swapped the pulleys back and max high range no longer trips my power bar.

As for placing the spindle in neutral...... The vibration is essentially non existent in all speed ranges with the spindle in neutral. So, now we know where the vibration is originating from.

Probably not a good thing to find out:(

Craig
 
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No Craig - it is a good thing. A bad thing is to have the vibration and things disintegrate.

Your lathe uses 3 x 6203 and 1 6203 2RS bearings and then the one Timkin bearing. 12175/12303. You can find them all pretty reasonable.

You could probably change all the bearings for about $125 - I would do the motor as well - you should also run your lathe directly off an outlet and not a power bar to be sure it can draw full start up power etc. :)
 
No Craig - it is a good thing. A bad thing is to have the vibration and things disintegrate.

Your lathe uses 3 x 6203 and 1 6203 2RS bearings and then the one Timkin bearing. 12175/12303. You can find them all pretty reasonable.

You could probably change all the bearings for about $125 - I would do the motor as well - you should also run your lathe directly off an outlet and not a power bar to be sure it can draw full start up power etc. :)

Funny thing here is that Phil, the nice retired English chap who sold me the machine and was desperately trying to convince his wife to move back to England to be closer to their children and thus ditching such things, told me he had recently replaced all the bearings? Nice Guy, and I really believe that he did. The only thing he did mention that was his method of pre-loading the spindle hadn't been all that scientific.

Everything feels tight from the outside and I don't see any significant spindle run out?

Craig
 
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Ok - that was my next thought. Loosen the set screw on the ring and tighten up the ring until the spindle is a bit stiff. Back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and check spindle. If it is good to rotate nicely - you are set. Lock the set screw. My lathe was making shite noise and the bearing closest to the nut was the issue.
 
Ok - that was my next thought. Loosen the set screw on the ring and tighten up the ring until the spindle is a bit stiff. Back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and check spindle. If it is good to rotate nicely - you are set. Lock the set screw. My lathe was making shite noise and the bearing closest to the nut was the issue.

That nut wasn't on there very tight? What the heck do I use to tighten it down with? All's that's on it is a single hole about 5mm dia and 7.5mm deep.

Craig
 
Loosen set screw and tighten with a 5 mm punch or 5 mm rod. - - hardened punch will allow for some added tighten. Take a pic
 
Loosen set screw and tighten with a 5 mm punch or 5 mm rod. - - hardened punch will allow for some added tighten. Take a pic


NUT.JPG


Removed the nut and cleaned her up.

SPINDLE.JPG


And cleaned up the spindle.

INSTALLED.JPG


Greased the nut and ready to tighten. Just need to figure out what to use to hold it.

Should I be doing with the chuck installed or does it matter?

Craig
 
Doesn’t matter. Originally probably was a spanner used to tighten. You could use the chuck with a bar in the jaws to allow it to brace against the bed to tighten.
 
Just noticing that your back bearing (6203 2RS) is missing the seal at 12 o’clock- not a good sign. That might just be your issue?
 
Just noticing that your back bearing (6203 2RS) is missing the seal at 12 o’clock- not a good sign. That might just be your issue?

I don't think it's missing. Just the image or some grunge I didn't remove. I'll take her off and double check though.

Edit.... I checked, the seal is ok, just some grunge I didn't clean out.

Can I brace the nut and turn the chuck instead?
 
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You can, shouldn’t be that hard to knock up to tight. - just need everything snug. The bearing is not a tight fit at the back, you could take a dead blow hammer and tap the front and tighten. You are looking at tenths. Push on the front and tap with your dead blow - shouldn’t take much - how loose was the nut?
 
You can, shouldn’t be that hard to knock up to tight. - just need everything snug. The bearing is not a tight fit at the back, you could take a dead blow hammer and tap the front and tighten. You are looking at tenths. Push on the front and tap with your dead blow - shouldn’t take much - how loose was the nut?

Tap on the front of what? The nut wasn't loose loose, just easy to back off. Tightening it appears to be a bigger challenge.

BAR1 (1).JPG


BAR1 (2).JPG


I made this up, but man that nut doesn't want to tighten up any more than it is. The spindle feels a little draggy now, but not much.
 
If it’s a little draggy then back 1/4 turn and lock the nut - that is it. Same type of adjustment for a wheel bearing. After the back off check out the play. Should be all easy to turn.
 
If it’s a little draggy then back 1/4 turn and lock the nut - that is it. Same type of adjustment for a wheel bearing. After the back off check out the play. Should be all easy to turn.

Tap on the front of what? I want to see if this will go a little tighter yet. A 1/4 turn will loosen it right off?
 
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