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3D Printer Happened

I liked Bambu's PETG HF, but they didn't have any in stock the last time I needed some so I switched. Most of my functional prints are sunlu PETG, and it's really good. Not sure I've had a print fail, and they come out perfect. I really do love the RFID tag system, I wish it was open to all brands, and able to track individual rolls.
I think that is a thing that Bambubuddy enables somehow.
 
Absolutely. Matter3d are based in Victoria. Excellent filaments.

They also threw a BBQ last year and there's another one schedules. Really nice people.
 
I liked Bambu's PETG HF, but they didn't have any in stock the last time I needed some so I switched. Most of my functional prints are sunlu PETG, and it's really good. Not sure I've had a print fail, and they come out perfect. I really do love the RFID tag system, I wish it was open to all brands, and able to track individual rolls.
Here ya go.
 
I have a k2 plus with cfs and program my own rfids, you can buy a pile of them off Amazon and Ali, it’s pretty easy to program them. Others posted the bambu version. Lately I just update the filament on the touch screen when I put a new reel in.
 
Last night, I pulled the plug and ordered a Bambu P2S Combo. Since diving into the 3D water pool is so intimidating I decided to dedicate a new thread to the adventure. My earlier posts are all over the place. The last full thread is here:

'Filament Recommendations'
Since getting my P1S in late 2024 I have come the following conclusions about filaments:

- thus far brand does not seem to matter
- carboard spools work fine but I still try to get plastic ones overall
- PETG CF is the bees knees for easy to use structural filaments but you need to design carefully as the strength across layers is a LOT less than along the layers.
- liquid glue on the build plate solves all adhesion problems that cleaning just doesn’t seem to address. It is both an adhesion promoter and a release agent. Only downside is it leaves a slight clear residue on the part (which rinses off easily with warm water) and eventually you need to wash the build plate and re-apply a whole layer (rather than just the last area used).

Images of the drive reduction I built using a purplish PETG-CF end plate and a CNC machined steel end plate that was prototyped in PETG-CF. I suspect you will love the machine once you get the hang of it, and understand what it wasn’t meant to do…lol
 

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Question - I've been noodling filament dehumidification and storage. But I keep my shop below 50% (typically 45%) relative humidity. Is special storage really still required?
 
It is important to look at how different filament reacts to moisture. As I use petg the most it tends to be affected by it. Your prints get stringy or even have issues with the layers bonding. I’m not sure it’s a matter of high humidity, more a matter of how long the filament is exposed. High would take less time, but even low humidity will have an affect. It makes filament brittle which can lead to breaking in the filament system.

Garage sale food dehydrators, cheap, set to 50C and leave to dry. I have made little temp controllers. But found the ink bird ones work great and can be used for other things. Then use plastic cereal boxes for filament I use often. Long term storage I use clothing vacuum bags. Drop in a couple desiccant packs, I keep all the ones from new reels. Toss them in to the dehydrator when I want them dry. Some people go to very high levels to keep filament dry and others don’t seem to care.

There is an entire legion of people making and modifying the cereal boxes, so lots of great ideas there. Some multi reel systems have dryers built in mine does not so I just cycle reels through the two dehydrators I have.

Large Dry Food Storage Containers with Lids, https://a.co/d/06XyrC5d
 
I guess I should add in the only time I put reels through the dehydrators is if they are sitting in my cfs for long or are feeling a bit brittle.
 
I bought a cheap food dehydrator for drying, seems to work just fine. I keep PETG, PETG-CF and two different colors of PLA in the AMS. They never give me any trouble. I have dessicant bottles specifically designed for the AMS, it stays about 30% RH. For TPU, I dried them when I first got them and keep them in the cereal containers with dessicant bottle designed for those containers. Those also stay about 30%. The only one that gives me any trouble is the 85A TPU, which doesn't seem to want to pull back out of the print head when I'm finished. I've had good luck with Elegoo PLA and PETGs, and Duramic3d TPU. For the first time today I had to disassemble the print head to get a piece of TPU out. Being my first time, it was more frustrating than difficult as it was hard to see what I was doing. Over 800 hours of print time, so I really can't complain. I recommend that you set your printer up so that you can access the back (and top) easily.
 
I use the side feed for tpu. Cfs doesn’t recommend it. No issues at the print head on mine. I haven’t done much with tpu other than feet for stuff. My printer sits on a 3d printed drawer and I printed the rubber feet. They have worked surprisingly well.
 
Second what mrwhoopee posted. I have my printer on a 4 drawer wheeled cabinet.There are times you will need to get around the printer. I can pull mine off the wall and work on it and put it back.
 
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