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Working on my South Bend 9C

Is a 6 inch chuck too big?

3 and 4 jaw chucks for bench lathes

6" Atlas original 4 jaw lathe chucks and Bison 5" 3 jaw chucks with 1 1/2 x 8 integral mounts
www.hhrobertsmachinery.com

Note that these chucks already incorporate the 1-1/2 X 8 mount.

Also, while I would not buy a used 3-jaw chuck, a 4-jaw is a different thing. There is no scroll to get worn. And in most shops, the 4-jaw sees a fraction of the use compared to other work-holding options. So a used 4-jaw might be a good option. I believe the OP is on that Canadian island* in the Pacific so availability could be a problem but might still be worth a look.

Craig
* Because of the big storm, my daughter and her fiancee can't fly today--their best option is early tomorrow. They are going from Toronto to Calgary...but now they get to go via Victoria!
 
@trlvn I called HHR a week or two ago and they don't have any more of those Atlas units sadly! That's exactly what I had hoped to get.

And aye, I haven't seen anything decent on the local markets yet, curse the island life.

Safe travels to your daughter, what a time to be on the move...
 
Hi Michael,

If I recall correctly 6 inch four jaw chucks and 4 inch three jaw chucks were standard on the original lathe.
 
This from my ‘How to run a Lathe’, 34th edition May 1938, page 55.
2nd photo is 5”, 4 Jaw, 13lbs with back plate. Couple yrs old.
Bottom 6” 4 jaw with backplate, from 1938, came with a ‘38 9” 415 workshop lathe, 8-1/2 lbs.
Chucks used to weigh much less.
I bought a 6” 3 Jaw when i got the workshop 415, my opinion weighed too much.
I sold it & bought a 5”. Just my opinion.
 

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I have a southbend 9c and I bought both the NOS chucks from HHR a few years back. I recall having to modify one of them to get it to register properly. I’m on vacation at the moment so I can’t provide any pictures or measure but I’ll be home in a week or so
 
kevin.decelles said:
I have a southbend 9c and I bought both the NOS chucks from HHR a few years back. I recall having to modify one of them to get it to register properly. I’m on vacation at the moment so I can’t provide any pictures or measure but I’ll be home in a week or so
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I wonder if it's the same issue David and I found!

And if anyone has one of those Atlas 4 jaws and doesn't need it I would happily buy it!
 
Not sure if it was this thread or another but it was talking about SBs unscrewing their chucks and there was another where the OP had great difficulty removing his chuck on his new lathe. I think this video is more about the latter and looks interesting, it's now on my watch list.
 
jorogi said:
Not sure if it was this thread or another but it was talking about SBs unscrewing their chucks and there was another where the OP had great difficulty removing his chuck on his new lathe. I think this video is more about the latter and looks interesting, it's now on my watch list.
Click to expand...
I think it was in @jcdammeyer big project post.
 
jorogi said:
Not sure if it was this thread or another but it was talking about SBs unscrewing their chucks and there was another where the OP had great difficulty removing his chuck on his new lathe. I think this video is more about the latter and looks interesting, it's now on my watch list.
Click to expand...
Well that's a fascinating option for us folks with threaded spindles.
 
Golem Pens said:
Still feels like a slight low spot/mis-concentricity between the cap and body though.
Click to expand...

Plastics are highly elastic materials. Holding the pen too tightly when threading, turning, boring, or drilling can/will cause uneven thickness in the pen when the compression is removed. Very common problem with 3 and 4 jaw chucks and thin stock. 6 jaws help, but collets are best.

A repass after clocking 60 degrees can also help.

You might be able to rethread (chase) by hand to fix it.

Lastly, sometimes the hole before tapping is too small and can benefit from a lower % fit done by a quarter sckooch larger drill or reamer. Even a redrill or re-ream after threading can help.
 
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