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Working on my South Bend 9C

Even though Vancouver doesn't have a Busy Bee anymore some of their prices are pretty good.

 
Yeah I was wondering how well regarded or not digital ones are!

Oh, missed the NOGA on my list https://www.amazon.ca/NOGA-Dial-Gage-Holder-Magnetic/dp/B002K07CTK/
Or this

You were warned that everyone on this list would try and help you spend your money.
 
Even though Vancouver doesn't have a Busy Bee anymore some of their prices are pretty good.

Careful buying 1.2.3 blocks some of the cheap Chinese ones don't have any threaded holes in them !
 
I'd personally go cheap on 1-2-3 blocks.

they are usually 25-50-75mm - so you can regrind an out of tolerance 1-2-3 into a 25-50-75 if so inclined.

Ya, you are right. Now that you mention it, I have seen those. But I'd guess that they are actually imperial 123 blocks and they just gave them the nearest even metric dimension for the benefit of those who don't know what an inch is. 😉

Maybe it's sorta like socket drives. They are all 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1" as far as I know. Has anyone actually seen a metric socket drive? Or a metric socket ratchet wrench?

Ran into a good one with a young fellow who didn't know that bolts are specified by their diameter and the driver was by the bolt head size which was bigger than the bolt. It was a huge ah ha moment for him.
 
Careful buying 1.2.3 blocks some of the cheap Chinese ones don't have any threaded holes in them !

And some that do are not threaded correctly. Big discussion about this on our forum a few years ago.

@Golem Pens - personally, unless you have a mill, I wouldn't bother with 123 blocks just yet. Stuff for your new lathe will be more than enough to empty your wallet.

I'm not a fan of digital in general, but it's hard to beat the convenience and quality of mitutoyo digital metrology.

A Mitutoyo digital caliper is a top notch instrument, but others make great calipers too. I bought one of these a while back and really like it because it is not only imperial and metric, but also fractional. Fractional is a component of imperial that has many advantages that metric doesn't really embrace the way imperial does (IMHO).

 

It's odd to me that your list is mostly metrology. Consider adding stuff like these:

Precision live center
Set of center drills
Different sizes of drill chucks
A decent bench grinder
Lathe tool height standard
Machinery's Handbook
Collet Chuck and Collets
Assorted Cutting Fluids
Thread gauges or threading mics.
Assorted drive dogs
Threading tools: gauges,
templates, tap guides,
die holders,
Depth mics (calipers work too)

In the middle of making this list, I had a twang of familiarity. I've made such a list before. So I went looking and found the following thread. Read the whole thing, other members also chimed in with some great ideas too.

Post in thread 'Options on wish list' https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/options-on-wish-list.13239/post-176618
 
It's odd to me that your list is mostly metrology. Consider adding stuff like these:

Precision live center
Set of center drills
Different sizes of drill chucks
A decent bench grinder
Lathe tool height standard
Machinery's Handbook
Collet Chuck and Collets
Assorted Cutting Fluids
Thread gauges or threading mics.
Assorted drive dogs
Threading tools: gauges,
templates, tap guides,
die holders,
Depth mics (calipers work too)

In the middle of making this list, I had a twang of familiarity. I've made such a list before. So I went looking and found the following thread. Read the whole thing, other members also chimed in with some great ideas too.

Post in thread 'Options on wish list' https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/options-on-wish-list.13239/post-176618
Ooh I'll go check that out!

Short answer, I'm not too worried about outfitting a general purpose shop yet, and I've got most of my core tools (taps, dies, centers, chucks, etc) in hand already from my existing setup and workflow with the wood lathe.

So, some of this is a need for more precision in actually setting up the metal lathe. Some, like the outside micrometer is to improve my current workflow (eg: relying on a basic digital caliper). And of course some is based on "hey what are some essential tools ?"
 
I'm not a fan of digital in general, but it's hard to beat the convenience and quality of mitutoyo digital metrology.
The two big advantages to digital micrometers in my eyes are the metric/imperial conversion and the ability to zero at any value thus indicating distance left to go. Both features eliminate arithmetic and thus an error source.
Also Sus bear in mind kids like Golem grew up in a digital world, most don't even realize that Mickey had hands, I even had one Mickey that had three.
 
Well @Golem Pens, there almost no end to what you may want to get for working with the lathe to make projects, and we have lots of suggestions.
Maybe start with one or 2 measuring tools, as the lathe dials are in imperial, it maybe easier to figure depth of cut with imperial reading measuring tools or at least” bilingual”measuring equipment. AND get as big a wall chart of conversions that you can find and fit on a wall handy to the lathe. A good one will have drill sizes for tapping holes too.
A grinder of some type, capable of grinding tool bits, and a basic stone for touch up work to the bits.
I am sure you had some tools for making pens as you have already been doing it. Some, many, all, maybe still of use with the lathe.
A drill chuck, sized to take the drill bits you have already been using, allowing for some oversized for the future. Some center drills that will work in the chuck.
Thread gages, to start with, metric? if that is what you presently use in tap sizes.
How deep down the rabbit hole you go with tooling, directly corresponds to the depth of your pockets. The hard part is getting the tools you need to do the jobs, without the what ifs, one of them would be great thing, getting in the way.
All the suggestions are great, just depends on where you are going, and when.
And adding many of the suggestions is sometimes half the fun!
 
A Mitutoyo digital caliper is a top notch instrument, but others make great calipers too.
It's likely user error, but I would've thought a Mitutoyo would be more repeatable (brass length)

Plus they don't turn on. I've listened to you guys about the battery drain so on any calipers I religiously take the battery's out. Maybe I need to read the manual but mine just blinks for 5 minutes when you put a battery in.
 
It's likely user error, but I would've thought a Mitutoyo would be more repeatable (brass length)

I dunno about repeatability, but reliability is another matter and it's important. Do you believe the number it gives you? If not, it's time for a Mitutoyo.

Plus they don't turn on. I've listened to you guys about the battery drain so on any calipers I religiously take the battery's out. Maybe I need to read the manual but mine just blinks for 5 minutes when you put a battery in.

As far as I know, the new ones turn off after a given amount of time. I have two old Mitutoyo's that don't. So ya, I remove batteries too. For those times that I forget, I bought a couple of sheets of batteries - 50 or so. Might tell you how bad my memory is.....
 
I dunno about repeatability, but reliability is another matter and it's important. Do you believe the number it gives you? If not, it's time for a Mitutoyo.
No. My mitutoyo won't give consistent results. I have no idea how reliable is different than repeatable, but I'll use your word and my mitutoyo isn't reliable, for what I'm doing
As far as I know, the new ones turn off after a given amount of time.
Mine doesn't turn ON
 
No. My mitutoyo won't give consistent results. I have no idea how reliable is different than repeatable, but I'll use your word and my mitutoyo isn't reliable, for what I'm doing

Mine doesn't turn ON
Hi Guys,

The connection pad under the button probably needs clean. Remarkable how a little tarnish stops the buttons working.

As far as digital calipers are concerned I have several along with a number of standards. It might shock you but non of them give the same reading. I have a Moore & Wright dial caliper which is actually the one I use as a reference because it always gives me the same reading within a needle thickness depending whether its cold or warm in the workshop.

Whilst I do use all three digital ones, I make a point of using the same one when I'm wanting a set size, knowing that the repeatability should remain constant.
 
No. My mitutoyo won't give consistent results. I have no idea how reliable is different than repeatable, but I'll use your word and my mitutoyo isn't reliable, for what I'm doing

Mine doesn't turn ON

Well, they say that the exception proves the rule. I think maybe it's time for a new one. Sounds like yours isn't repeatable or reliable or even functional.

Where did you get that one?

I don't suppose you were using it like a monkey wrench to tighten sizing die lock rings again were you.....

1765662463502.jpg

Just kidding!
 
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