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wire crimp education

I honestly would not expect to get great results with those insulated connectors no matter what crimpers you use. Those are the bargain basement of wiring terminals. That said, I do use them for some applications, but prefer to strip the insulation off and use a bit of heat shrink tubing instead after crimping.

I have done a lot of wiring on cars and motorcycles and still do. My preference is to use connectors such as WeatherPak and other similar styles. I have a selection of crimpers and tools for various terminal types and I think somewhere in my junk I may have an ancient pair of those stamped steel wire pliers.
 
I use needle nose to crimp my connectors, best results I’ve had yet. Never do I buy anything but the cheapest connectors, if it must not fail I’ll solder and shrink wrap otherwise twist the wire and tape it. My kids dirtbike has run for 2 years with the coil wires just twisted together not even taped. Crimp Connectors for me are used mostly in enclosures where nothing will move.
 
Non insulated terminals with the proper crimper & die works best. Insulated terminations are usually adequate but the quality of the terminal makes a big difference. Try some from Thomas & Betts or Burndy. I would advise against soldering unless you apply solder in small amounts just to hold the crimp crimped and try not to have any wick into the wire. If it does it stiffens the wire and this stiffness puts extra stress at the connection because when there is vibration, it gets absorbed at the connection instead of the wire.

Thanks for mentioning this point on too much solder.

Another tip for the OP ....Also keep a little extra length for the day when you do have replace a crimp and you have enough wire to strip and replace a connection without having to add a spliced piece in
 
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